blind_elk

My bits of engine have come back from the machine shop. Part of the work they did was a balance on the crank / flywheel / clutch. The guy I got to re-asssemble the engine is now all up-in-the-air because the machine shop has drilled into the side of my light-weight, CNC-machined, billet Aluminium flywheel to balance it. The "hole" is right under where a counterweight had been fitted to the pressure plate (at manufacture time). My engine guy reckons the machine shop should have simply moved the little counterweight, &/or added weight to the pressure plate only. The people I got the flywheel from in the first place reckon it's done all the time (removing metal from the flywheel). What should I do? Should I complain to the machiners, or tell my engine guy to get a life? Any (constructive / instructive) comments appreciated. TIA

I've got the Stagea RB25DET in my R32 GTS4. The gearing is way wrong for the torque of the engine, so I got hold of a Stagea rear diff (already have the front; came with the engine). Looking at the manual for removing the diff, it talks about moving the HICAS out of the way. Got me thinking - is the Stagea diff going to have the appropriate places to re-connect the HICAS? Does the Stagea run HICAS? TIA

Know how you feel, G. I had the same problem , but with the right leg. I would come home from work in agony, and curl up on the lounge floor in a foetal position for up to 2 hours before the pain would subside. Problem for me was it took 18 months to work out what the problem was, and get it fixed. I had the op done on a Wednesday afternoon, and was home Sunday night. Then about 3 weeks later I was allowed to go back to work (that was the really boring bit- there is only so much daytime tele a man can take!) Anyway, good luck with the op. Enjoy the pain killer on the first night (supp-type).

Andrew @ Traction Tyres in Rowville Craig @ Trackside Tyres in Bayswater.

I did this conversion on a GTS4. The RB25DET drops straight in and the gearbox bolts straight up onto the engine. Next step is to fit a 4.08 diff set to replace the stock 4.375 - RB25DET just has too much torque for the current ratios.

If you run them all the time, you are basically defeating the purpose of fitting them (other than they look prettier than the factory one). The alternator, and hence the engine, has to work harder to keep power available. If you aren't going to run them off a thermo switch, then at least run them off a manual override switch - you turn them on when you think they need to be on. Personally, haven't had much success with the thermo setup. You need to ensure that the air is going to go through the radiator (the factory fan ensures this will happen), otherwise your engine will be continually overheating. Mine even turned the fan on on a slight incline @110kph on a mild (say 23C) day!

I would expect the ribbing to be indicative of the strength of the casing itself, not necessarily the internals. I have a GTS4 fitted with a RB25DET pumping 180 kW at 4 wheels (I guesstimate 240 at the flywheel), through the standard GTS4 (manual) gearbox. It hasn't shown any sign of not being able to cope. In fact, I have burn marks on the HD clutch where the clutch slipped while trying to right a half-flipped car.

That's the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS), and you need to separate it from its mounting frame. Firstly, near one of the three bolts holding it in position, make a mark of sorts (paint is best) across the joint. (you will now be able to reassemble it and not upset the ignition timing). Disconnect the electrical plug from the CAS. Undo the 3 bolts securing the CAS to its frame and carefully withdraw it. Install the CAS / cam cover (hope you got the retaing bolts with it!). Reinstall the CAS - CAUTION - there is a semi-circular mating "tongue" in the CAS and the camshaft, so make sure these are going to align correctly. Rotate the CAS until the 2 paint marks align, then install the 3 bolts and tighten. Have I left anything out, anyone?? Would be wise not the thrash the engine, but drive it reasonably sensibly to a mechanic who knows how to set the base timing, as a precautionary measure.

Engine is under vacuum at idle, so BOV leaks additional air into the engine, severely leaning the mixture.

It's for a thermal switch that activates an A/C radiator fan. You could use the same switch to activate a thermo fan.

Jetspeed in Clayton have a GT-R copy front bar (although I reckon it's way too wide). Also japanese Motorsports in Adelaide (I got mine from there, but it needed a fir bit of extra work to make it strong enough).And I think places like Autobarn have the rear wings. Or any wrecker (check Zoom1 / HPI advertisers).

is your friend

You have a BOV that vents to atmosphere? Or the AAC valve needs cleaning (do a search).

If you simply add the GT-R rear wing, and get a copy front bar, to the uninitiated (ie Toymitsufalcodore owners) it will be a GT-R.

Not sure how cats go when you throw raw (ie unburnt) petrol through them. You may have damaged the catalyst material to the point where it is partially blocking the cat. This causes excessive temperatures to build up in the exhaust / cat.

Just had a lookup on the R32 GT-R workshop manual. Specs are (@300 rpm): Std: 171 psi low limit: 128 psi variation between cylinders: 14 psi (not clear if this is avg +/- 14, or hi - lo = 14) Would imagine similar numbers for the other RB engines. Just FYI, method is: Remove all spark plugs insert gauge in plug hole Full throttle crank

I would say that the engine is in pretty good nick for 100k+. I think acceptable variation is +/- 10%, so I would guess anywhere between 130 and 155 would be acceptable. (average is around 143)

Try cleaning the injectors - they may have a bit of gum build-up, permitting too much fuel to be injected. Try going for a "cruise" along the highway - the Central Coast must be nice this time of year.

Open out a paperclip and jam it down the middle wire of the connector plug. Connect the multimeter +ve to the clip, and the -ve to earth. Set scale on 12V DC. At around 2000 rpm, voltage should vary between 0 - 1 V

The box will bolt straight up to the 20's bum. Not sure how the RB25's speedo works (where it's different), but it's electronic, and the RB20's is mechanically driven.

That will be for the carbon canister, usually located passenger side, just in front of the (standard) air box.

Maybe wheel bearings?

I have one from a C34 Stagea (RB25DET engine) that might do the trick. Say, $100 PM me for details

Read what has been posted - R32 GTST IS LEGAL.Sticking a RB26DETT in a R32 GTSt is illegal - the power of the RB26DETT : weight of R32 GTSt is WAY OVER the limit. There are 2 limits (which you will find in any 1 of the 7, 363, 498 threads on this subject) which are applicable: 125 kW / Tonne or 3.5 litres engine capacity / Tonne And if you modify a car which would ordinarily be under either of these limits so that it then exceeds either of these limits, then that also is illegal for a P-plater to drive. eg sticking a 5.7 V8 in a formerly 3.3 (older) Holden. Or the RB26DETT into a R32 GTSt.

Which bit are you planning on putting into the R32 - the RB25DET engine, the RB25DET gearbox, or both?