blind_elk

Bump

I have had similar occasional problems with my GTS4, but I don't recall exactly what the cause was or how I fixed it (other than persistance until it didn't do it!). I would first check the fluid in the ATTESA reservoir (in the boot, RH, behind panel). Make sure its between the 2 marks, with Ign ON.

Talk to Andrew at Traction Tyres in Rowville. I would recommend the Bilsteins over the Konis. You can purchase them directly from Quadrant Suspensions in Berwick. I would suggest getting matched springs at the same time.

Point taken

There are 2 relays behind the ECU that control power to the injectors and coils - start looking around there for the problem.

How long have you had these wheels on the car? It is clearly a problem of offset (too much +ve). If you bought them from a dealer, then take them back and tell them they are wrong.

I don't agree. The hydraulic pressure is what moves the pistons and provides clamping force. Physics says that the hydraulic pressure in a closed system is equal at every point in that system. Therefore, the pressure clamping the front pads is the same as the pressure clamping the rear pads, regardless of how far the pistons had to move. The effect you are describing is the change of pedal travel that comes with this sort of upgrade. Might I propose that the cause is that the front is now working much better, causing increased weight transfer onto the front ie off the rears, so the rears don't have the load to make the tyres turn against the road surface, against the braking force. Therefore the rears now lock up more easily. Throw a bag of cement in the boot and see what happens.

So do Bursons. And I guess Nissan would have them (Doh!), and also Holden dealers (VL Commodore). Not quite. I had to get one for a RB25 DET, and it turned out that there is a small (6mm) bolt that is in a slightly different location (about 1cm to one side). I had to get a pump from Nissan that has a slotted hole to accommodate either bolt position.

The pressure gauge should have come with an appropriate adapter. Otherwise go and see the people you bought it from for the right adapter. The temp gauge should be installed after the cooler - there is no point in knowing how hot the oil is before it is cooled, you want to know how hot is is before it starts to lubricate stuff. I believe the usual placement for the sensor is to tap a hole through the sump drain plug.

If there is nothing significant in terms of performance mods, eg higher boost, then re-gap the plugs back to the factory / design spec, ie 1.1mm

I'm reliably informed that they are still available out of Japan. Maybe try your local Nissan dealer. But they ain't cheap - over $250 (not sure if that's each or the pair). Otherwise PM me for a contact.

You definitely need a fuel pressure regulator. Otherwise there's nothing to hold the fuel at the rail. (unless the car runs a "returnless fuel system" - see latest AutoSpeed) Malpassi should work fine.

Dave, I don't believe the ABS and the ECU talk to each other at all (in the AWD models, the ECU and ATTESSA talk TPS to each other, though). Dan, In the R32, the tacho signal to the ECU unplugs from the main ECU loom, so presumably does the same in the R31. Worst case, find it and plug it into pinout #7. The starter and alternator should work exactly the same. In the worst case, you might need to fit the alternator off the red motor onto the silver motor.

Nissan often puts a sort of pressure limiting valve in their braking systems. You could look at changing that over to a more favourable bias setup.

Only later model RB25DETs run VVT. You can simply add in the wiring for the VVT solenoid. This is the advice I was given AFTER I had wired a whole new loom into my RB25DET -> (R32) GTS4 conversion.I think there are other threads that suggest you simply swap over the RB20 sensors into the RB25, and everything works OK. Although I was running a RB25 CAS on my RB20, and it seemed to run OK.

I replaced a pump in my R30. It took several cycles of priming, with the line disconnected at the fuel rail, to get fuel up to the fuel rail. Aslo, if the filter was clagged, then replace it!

As long as they have the same rolling diameter. But it is possible (study the data from different manufacturers) that even though they are stated as being the same size, eg 245/40x17, different manufacturers manage to make them with slightly different rolling diameters - just in the way the tyres are constructed, I guess. I would personally have the same brand and same size all round, all replaced at the same time (even having brand new at one end and old / worn at the other can be enough to upset the AWD system).

That's the one. Certainly looks OK. Although the sensor itself may have failed. A/C diagnostics don't flash codes, they display them on the facia panel.

There is a connector in the engine bay, basically immediately behind the coil ignitor module. It connects to a sensor that clamps around one of the heater pipes back there.

That would have been useful info to have from the start Is the wheel a proper HICAS wheel? Is it aligned correctly?

It could be that the pump is not sitting far enough down into the tank. You may need to do some measuring to confirm where the bottom of the pump is in relation to the bottom of the tank.

Can I suggest that the brake problem is unrelated to the rear end problem. The brake problem is probably the result of the LH caliper siezing, sometimes it can be an imbalance in the front caster settings.

C/R should increase, because the RB26 crank will increase the stroke and therefore the swept volume of the engine. Should increase C/R by ratio of RB26 stroke : RB20 stroke.

Item:ACL Forged pistons and rings. 1mm oversize, to suit RB25DET Location:Melbourne Item Condition:Brand new, never installed Price:$1000.00, delivered anywhere in Australia. Payment Conditions:Negotiable

Coils from a S1 RB25 will work, because they use a seperate ignitor module. Coils from S2 RB25 don't work because they have inbuilt ignitors.