blind_elk

You don't need to wait overnight. If something is draining the battery, you will see it immediately.Check the boot light is turning off properly (although I would expect it to take a bit longer to discharge the battery).

Use the same as for the R33 GTS4 (a 4WD version of your 4-door). The fronts are 280mm diameter, and min 24.2mm thickness. So it seems your rotors have been machined a bit too thin. Unfortunately, they don't seem to make a rear. You might need to mortgage your house and get a pair from Nissan. Perhaps try some of the wreckers first, though.

It appears you have disconnected the boost pressure line from the wastegate itself - is this correct? If so, where does the wastegate get a signal of what boost has been generated? The boost signal forces the wastegate open when a preset boost level - enough to overcome the spring - is genarated. The spring actually holds the wastegate SHUT. So without a boost signal, the wastgate stays shut, and boost keeps on building. Whoever told you you could remove the wastegate lines should be sent the bill for the repairs to your engine.

Perfect!

Try adjusting it so there is a bit of lateral stress on the joint - that should help lock it in position while you tighten the nut.

There was a suggestion some time ago to use fishing line to cut through the adhesive. Probably a lot safer - for the paint and your fingers - than a stanley blade.

Started today, on the main forum page, I'm getting the following error message right at the top, above the SAU bit: IPB WARNING [2] Invalid argument supplied for foreach() (Line: 281 of /sources/lib/boardstats_functions.php)

It's only got 7.5 C/R! Engine only runs closed loop under cruise conditions. As soon as you start moving the throttle off cruise, the ECU should start ignoring the O2 sensor signals. Is the distributor in A-1 condition? Does the vacuum advance work properly?

Bilsteins or Koni will set you back approx $250 per corner. (Springs are additional, about $100 per corner, I think) Bendix Ultimates are pretty good bang-for-your-buck. Yeah, probably the castor rod bushes. Get the urethane replacements.

Unashamed BUMP

Let me know how much to send the seat rails and Kenwood deck to Melbourne.

Did you do the test with WOT? A better idea of engine condition is a leak-down test.

PM sent

Usually, the tyres on each axle must be the same make / model / size.

The combustion chambers in the RB20 head are way too small (both in volume and diameter) for a RB25 block. Compare the bore sizes of the RB20 and RB25. You will probably have way too much comp ratio, and the pistons will likely keep smashing into the head around the edges of the combustion chamber.

They are a tapered pin setup. Ideally, you'll need to get a "puller". Go see Repco / Autobarn / Supercheap. An alternative is to support the fixed part with a sledgehammer, and whack the pin with a good sized hammer. Leave the nut on to prevent damaging the thread. (this is a more dangerous method)

As long as the new tyres are 225/50x16 the ATTESSA should work OK.

#2 is the water temp sender (for the gauge in the dash). The other one is water temp for the ECU.

R32s use fluid from the P/S system to operate the HICAS system. So it makes sense that a problem with the HICAS would affect P/S. If it's random, I'd be looking at a dirty electrical connector.

Not exactly sure what you mean, but the blocks on GTS4s are certainly different to (and not interchangeable with) GTSt blocks in terms of the sump flange.

I'm not aware of any requirement to do anything to the engine, other than bore to suit. But while you're about it, a balance might be worthwhile (but, as I said, not essential AFAIK).

Had to go for a drive up there this morning - seems they have moved somewhere, so can't get you the info. Sorry.

Is there a prize for last!??? I'm sure the R30 would be a shoe-in for that!

Been there, done that. I got a panel shop in Mitcham to re-build the rail. Cost around $250 IIRC, and they only needed the car for a day. I'll see if I can dig out the details. siksII, bent / crushed chassis rails are a roadworthy item, at least in Vic.

Have you checked the pedal height? The pushrod from the pedal to the master cylinder is threaded and you can adjust the free height of the pedal to maximise the performance of the hydraulics.