blind_elk

Probably not bad if the engine was cold at the time of the test.

Static build-up. Grab hold of the door frame before you get out of the car.

Use the same plug P/N, just change the "7" for an "8" or whatever number you think appropriate. I have a set of Platinum 8s around somewhere (PFR8B-9) - PM me if you are interested.

Found my sheet. The L20 O2 sensor uses pin 31 (signal) and pin 16 (earth). The L24 uses pin 13 to control the fuel pump (the L20 doesn't have a corresponding pin)

I'm pretty certain that the looms are basically the same between the L20 and L24. The L20 needs a O2 sensor wire, which uses the (vacant on the L24) pin 13. PM me a fax number, I can send you the EFI wiring diagram for the L24E. And when I find it, the cross-reference list I created.

I'm really not sure - it was a replacement for the original engine after it shat a piston. It's probably around the 100k mark. It's had the timing belt and water pump replaced quite recently.

My R30 runs nearly 4000 rpm at just over 100kph in 5th gear! Thank your lucky stars you've got a 32.

If you are VERY careful. you can punch them on 1 side (ie off-centre) so they rotate in the hole, then grab them with pliers / vicegrips / etc and yank them out. I think they are about 32 mm, but if you take the old one in to a Repco store, they should have the right one (they are not a special Nissan-size plug). My theory is that if one has gone, then the others can't be too far behind. Best to replace as many as practicable in the one job. The plugs are relatively cheap (much cheaper than labour costs).

AFAIK, the transfer case (the little bulge hanging off the rear of the gearbox) doesn't take oil as such. It is fed by what amounts to A/T fluid which is stored in a reservoir located in the RHS of the boot, behind the boot lining panel. If, on the other hand, you really mean the front differential (the little bulge that hangs off the sump), then about 1 litre of a 85w/90 gear oil should suffice.

Why don't you take yours out and have a look at them - the type will be printed / embossed somewhere on the globe. Then you could post your findings up here so others can find the answer.

FPR has nothing to do with flow - it simply controls the pressure in the fuel lines. So: 1) to increase pressure, RTFM 2) when you increase pressure, yes, your A/F will be richer than it is now.

Just because the PFC says it's at 15 doesn't mean it is actually 15. You should get out the timing light and confirm the idle / base timing is 15 BTDC

Item: R32 RB20DET, ex GTS4 Location: Melbourne Item Condition: Good. Has had 100k timing belt and water pump replacement within last 10k km Reason for Selling: Upgraded to RB25DET Price and Payment Conditions:$600, freight outside Melbourne at buyer's expense, payment method negotiable Extra Info:Engine is missing: Turbo, coil packs, differential Contact Details:post or PM

Still sitting in the garage.

That will be the water cooling for the turbo centre. The oil line is a loop of pipe that comes out of the block to the top of the turbo centre. It will be visible from underneath the car.

Between pins 1 & 2 on the Throttle Position SWITCH (separate from the Throttle Position SENSOR, although they are in the same physical module). When throttle CLOSED, resistance = 0. To adjust, simply loosen the 2 retaining screws and rotate the module until resistance switches to 0, tighten retaining screws. (I've read in other manuals to set the throttle using a 0.012" feeler gauge when doing this set)

Standard offset for the 30 is +25. +33 will sit in too far (although it's only 8mm, but they are wider than standard) - you run the risk of the rim catching the strut (at the front, at least). As boof said, try them on first.

The simple solution (but not necessarily the cheapest) is to re-fit the RB20 'box. They seem more than capable of withstanding the power / torque of a RB25DET (I have the RB25DET up against the stock gearbox in my 32 GTS4, and the 'box handles 180kW at 4 wheels). The cheapest option is to swap the speedo drives in the gearbox, but I'm not sure if that is possible or not.

AFAIK, it's supposed to happen. It's to keep the hydraulic pressure up to the HICAS unit.

Are you running the factory fan or a thermo? The Japs don't take good care of their cars, and don't treat the cooling system with coolant. I'm therefore guessing that the water pump is not healthy.

If the lower mount is the "eye" type ie round, then the R33 GTSt will probably be the same. If not, then I know in the R32 GTS4 the suspension is interchangeable with the GT-R, so you might get away with R33 GT-R suspension components.

The 5" tip is your problem - too much bling for a R32 GTSt. Seriously, though, if you searched these forums you would have been able to uncover that fact that a dead or dying AFM (Air Flow Meter) will set the ECU into limp-home mode and will not permit the engine to rev at more than 2500.

The theory is that the BOV allows to compressor to keep pumping during gear changes and times of closed throttle. On full boost and WOT, the air from the turbo compressor is flowing into the engine. During a gear change, the throttle snaps shut, blocking off the path for the air into the engine. However, the compressor keeps pumping. Eventually it will reach the limit of its capacity to pump air and start to slow down. So when the throttle opens again, the compressor needs to spool up again. Now, if you release the pressure, via a BOV, the compressor can continue to work at optimal performance. So when the throttle opens again, the compressor is still at it's optimal speed and pumping capacity, gaining immediate response from the engine. I'm sure if BOV's detracted from perfomance, the manufacture's would not have invested millions of $$$ developing the engine with a BOV attached.

$600, delivered.

The oil pressure thing is a sign that the wire to the sender has a direct path to earth. It's probably unrelated to the starting problem - just coincidental.