blind_elk

Maybe a faulty / failing connection of one of the fusible links onto the battery.

If Nissan have a kit, then use that. The guys at ABS should be able to work with it.

I had one done last February - $500. That included a bit of work to reinforce some weak areas that weren't moulded correctly in the first place.

Just up in the Bursons near work - Selleys seem to have a couple of products specifically for cleaning oil-in-concrete. Cement / kitty litter only work for the initial spill, to absorb the liquid oil. Caustic soda is actually available in supermarkets (it's basically Draino). DO BE CAREFUL - it is highly corrosive, and will generate massive amounts of heat as it dissolves in water (the water can be near boiling!)

I'm sure I read somewhere that GT-Rs have 4WD also

Have you tried people like ABS, or Nissan for that matter, for a kit (replacement seals, etc)?

Tried a search, didn't quite find what I was looking for. My engine putter-back-togetherer is concerned about the lack of clearance on the lifters. Question: are the hydraulic lifters serviceable? Or do you have to replace them? If they are not serviceable, then can / how to bleed them back down (I think that's his question). Its for a RB25DET ex C34 Stagea, so it has the VVT as well (if that matters). Any (constructive) advice welcome. TIA.

The RB20 gearbox will bolt straight up onto the RB25DET. The box appears capable enough to handle the output of the 25. My conversion - Stagea RB25DET into a R32 GTS4 - ended up pushing 180kW to all 4 wheels, and the box hasn't shown any reluctance to continue working. I ran a Wolf 3D ECU into it, so can't help you with the pinouts.

Before you pull the engine apart, did you do the comp test with WOT?

While you still have some of that tank-load of fuel, take a sample (about 1 litre) so you can get it tested. Then you can throw the results at BP, if that's the problem.

There are any number of posts describing how to isolate a faulty coil pack. And there are any number of posts describing the differences between R34 GTT and R33 S1 / S2 coil packs.

I know it sounds strange, but check that the throttle position sensor is working properly.

The RED one is a NICS engine. It is the earlier of the 2. And has less power. The NICS has 2 inlet runners per cylinder, 1 of which has a butterfly that opens and closes depending on the requirements. These tend to jam, so that the engine is either terrific down low and crap up high, or crap down low and terrific up high. The heads are different, but interchangeable (I know the inlet manifolds are not interchangeable). That's my limit. Anyone else add or correct.

The guys from Lube Mobile could possibly do it (if you need someone to come to you). Otherwise any half-decent mechanic should be able to do it if you can get to him.

Which you clearly don't want to do. (And I do remember now that I had the same dilemma) I was able to get hold of a Bride sub-frame. They can be modified (drill 2 new holes) to take the Recaro.

My past experience was to make an adapter out of flat steel to adapt the Recaro to the car's mounting system. All you need to do is get the runners / frame off the Skyline seat.

Is that a SS type? Any more info about it?

Can anyone suggest where I can get hold of a top quality (HKS, Tomei, etc) head gasket for my RB25DET rebuild. Preferably in Melbourne. (Tried AVO already, they are asking $580 for a 1.2mm stainless gasket.) TIA

Can anyone suggest where I can get hold of a top quality (HKS, Tomei, etc) head gasket for my RB25DET rebuild. Preferably in Melbourne. (Tried AVO already, they are asking $580 for a 1.2mm stainless gasket.) TIA

There are any number of threads on here dealing with aligning the camshafts. As for the block face, a stanley blade is useful for removing old head gasket. Then use a rough (around 600 grit) wet'n'dry or emery. (Dry) Rub in ONE DIRECTION only. Rub the face of the head at the perpendicular direction. eg, rub the block ALONG its length and the head ACROSS its width. This will help the gasket "grip" and prevent squirming of the head against the block.

Maybe God was smiling on you.

Must be the birthdays thing - no-one has had a birthday for the last week. Statistically, very remote chance of that.

It seems to be running richer, but making more power. That does not compute.What were the differences between the BEFORE and AFTER runs?

If you've disconnected the hose that supplies a boost signal to the solenoid, then where the bloody hell is the wastegate actuator getting its boost signal? It normally gets it from the solenoid (the solenoid bleeds some of the incoming boost signal to atmosphere). If the solenoid is getting no signal, then it can't supply any signal to the wastegate actuators. If the wastegate actuators don't get a signal, then they can't overcome the spring. If they can't overcome the spring they can't open the wastegate. If the wastegates don't open, then there is no bypass of exhaust gas around the exhaust wheel. If there is no bypass around the exhaust wheel, then the wheel just keeps going faster and faster. If the wheel goes faster, more boost is produced.

In a closed system, pressure is equal in all directions. So, regardless of the ID of the hose, the pressure is the same at the actuator whether a restrictor is in place or not.The simplest way to restrict the boost, as has already been suggested, is to directly activate the actuators (rather than let a control valve bleed off some pressure, which increases the boost pressure necessary to open the wastegates).