blind_elk

Traction Tyres in Rowville (Andrew) - mainly Yokohamas or Trackside Race & Rally in Bayswater (Craig) - mainly Falken / B/S

I recently had a similar conversion of a Stagea rear diff into a R32 GTS4. Basically what I had done was to take the crown wheel and pinion out of the Stagea diff, and have the C/W attached to the R32's viscous centre and both bits replaced into the R32's diff housing. (That's not exactly what I wanted - I wanted the whole centre transferred, but that's a different story!) If you simply replace your GTS's diff centre with the new mech LSD centre, everything else should be re-useable, including the output shafts (so you retain the bolt patterns of the GTS).

If the tuner punched out the cat, then I suggest you get him to replace it (or maybe punch him out!).

bumpity bump

No, just the engine.

In a word - Yes. I'm running 235/45x17 B/S G IIIs on a 7.5" rim. It will have next to no effect on the speedo - you are increasing the diameter of the tyre by less than 1cm.

Did a search for RB25DET +R32 and got several pages of threads. You will need to refine the search a bit. Try looking for threads in which I have commented (I've done the conversion).

Have a chat to Daniel @ DJM Automotive in Burwood - 98082590. If he can't help you, he may know someone who can.

All GT-Rs = 8.28mm (Ex), 8.58 (In) At ~7.6 (actually, they are 7.8 Ex & In), you are running RB20DET cams.

If it's leaking fluid, then it's a problem with the master cylinder. Simply go and get a "kit" to repair it.

Just followed up on the fix. They insert a converter between the gearbox and the speedo cable. One of the firms I spoke to will fit it for you in a day, cost $275. The other test then supply the converter (you need fit it) for $175. Pretty sure I could fit it myself in under 1.5 hrs (at approximate labour rates).

Maybe the water pump pooped itself.

Sounds like your car used to be an Auto. There should be the best part of 12V at one side of the reverse lamp when reverse is engaged (with Ign = ON). Check both sides for ohms to earth (1 side should be 0 (or close to it) - that will be the earth / -ve side). I'd put money on a broken reverse switch in the gearbox, or a broken wire attached to the switch.

There is a spot up on the back of the plenum chamber (next to the brake booster hose) where you can fit an adapter to feed the wastegate.

Well, my '89 Skyline was able to talk to the Nissan Consult. Silly question - You do have the factory ECU (not a PFC or similar)?

Which model Skyline do you have? I know in the R32 there is a push switch (probably for fog lamps) next to the main light control switch - you haven't accidentally pressed that one, have you?

Already asked that one myself. I think they quoted $275. Not sure how it's done - someone suggested they fit a new speedo drive gear in the gearbox.$275 sounds a lot, but it's only 2 photographs!

Haven't actually got it back on the road yet. But the speedo will be out by the ratio of the 2 gearsets. The Stagea gearset is approx 7% less than the GTS4's. It used to do roughly 3000 rpm @ 100 kph, so I expect to be doing roughly 2800 rpm with the new gearset. I certainly plan on getting the speedo re-calibrated to suit the new ratios so I don't forget that the speedo now reads less than actual, and get photographed a few too many times.

And the pinion gear - they are a matched set.Should work for any (R200) combo - I recently did this to fit Stagea ratios (4.083) in my R32 GTS4 (4.375).

Put the factory BOV back. Put the vacuum lines back.

All you need to do is imagine where the half-moon bit sits inside the front of the cam. Then visualise where the matching one inside the CAS has to sit to align with it. The CAS will still work because they also mesh on a spline setup.

I did mine while I had the head off for a blown head gasket. I suspect the least you might have to do is remove the manifolds to get easier access to the plugs.

The creaking could be a result of some of the pistons being stuck in the caliper. Get the calipers overhauled.

The ratio is determined by the number of teeth on the crown wheel and the pinion. The number of teeth on each should be stamped on the crown wheel somewhere. The crown wheel should un-bolt from the centre. You need to swap both parts (the CW and the pinion).

Good quality Auto Trans fluid will do. Check the level with the IGN = ON.