blind_elk

The spring only supports the weight of the car. So pre-loaded or not, the ride should be unaffected. The "jiggliness" of the ride is possibly due to the valving of the Konis - they control the oscillations of the springs when the car travels over irregularities in the road surface. You may also be reaching the limt of "bump" travel of the Koni, resulting in your car hitting the bump-stops - that certainly gives a rough ride.

My GTS4 is missing 2 doors then!

OK, thanks for that. I might give them another go then. Although +/- 0.75 deg castor adjustment isn't such a lot, is it?

I was hoping you'd know the answer, SK. But from memory, the crush tube is inside the chassis mount, and the rods are difficult to extract from that area without undoing everything. Apart from the fact that the bushes are quite a tight fit everywhere (crush tube in bush and bush in housing).

I have one from a C34 Stagea RB25DET that I couldn't use in the engine swap. $100 plus freight.

I used to have the Whiteline adjustable castor bushes installed in my R32 GTS4. I also had the camber kit. I had a strange combo, where I had too much castor but not enough camber on one side. As the camber was increased, so did the castor, causing a larger mis-match between L & R. I've since replaced the bushes with straight swap Urethane bushes. The real question here is: How do you adjust the castor bushes? It seems that it's necessary to pull the rods out to make any sort of adjustment. Very labour (and hip-pocket) intensive.

Must have been something else coincidental. I had mine off the road for about 5 months, with a realatuvely empty tank, and managed to get it started and running OK. Just needed a good battery to fire everything.

No, it should be regulated to around 13.8V, regardless of how full or empty the battery was. It might produce more current, but will always produce the same (regulated) voltage. Only time the alternator will draw current from the battery is prior to startup. Once the engine is running, then the alternator supplies all the necessary current to run the car and re-charge the battery.

First off, the package should have come with some instructions as to which ring is which. Failing that, fit the thinnest ring into the thinnest ring slot.

What's the that you've done?Only thing I can thnk of is the main cable from the battery to the starter (same size as earth cable) isn't connected.

It's for the ATTESSA AWD system. Same fluid (ATF). You need to check the level with Ign = ON.

I have one (in Melbourne) from a C34 Stagea RB25DET. P/N 92600 0V001 (2C801 45010) $100 (plus freight)

If you are in Melbourne, have a chat with Rod @ Race Radiators in Dandenong. Anywhere else, FIIK.

Compressor surge (?) - the turbos just aren't efficient at 1 bar and those revs. Maybe the turbos are out of balance. The compressor and exhaust housings can be rotated relative to each other, changing the point at which the wastegates open (mate with a R33 GT-R had the problem).

Gasses only flow because of pressure differentials. If you have too much back pressure in the exhaust system, then the exhaust gasses aren't going to flow as readily through the turbine. Then the turbine doesn't spin as fast, and you don't get as much boost pressure.

You're supposed to bring pressies!!

There is an article in the latest Zoom (or maybe it's HPI) about the tendency of these coil packs to arc to earth when the rubber boots get a bit dirty. Spraying with WD40 maybe increases resistance to the path to earth. Try giving the boots a good cleanup.

Did you bring pressies?

The engine (Stagea RB25DET) for my conversion cost me $3800, 18 months ago. It came complete with an auto box, which I basically discarded (since my 'line is manual). There is no need to fret about the differences in diffs causing havoc with ATTESSA. It is relatively easy to swap the (front) diff out of your current setup into the Stagea engine. Or fit a Stagea rear diff at the same time. If yours is already a manual, then it's also relatively easy to transfer the flywheel / clutch onto the RB25DET - only requires a new spigot bearing. RB20DET would be a waste of time. That's why I put the 25 in my 'line in the first place (R32 GTS4) - would be even worse trying to haul around a lard-arse R33 with a gutless RB20DET (but, if you want one...)

Check the TPS connections.

The combo switch will affect the low-beams. Often, in the early stages, if you jiggle the switch a bit you can often get them working. The switch can be pulled apart and cleaned up as a bandaid. The high-beam problem is probably a blown globe.

Might sound a bit silly, but have you checked all the suspension bushes (particularly castor bushes). And the wheel bearings.

You could be inducing "knock" by suddenly ramming hot intake air into the cylinders.

If it's on the front, move it to the rear. See how that goes.

I really don't want to cast adverse opinions on your mechanic, but the crank was at TDC, not 30 BTDC, when the cam belt was replaced? And he hasn't broken the half-moon key in the ex cam and stuck the CAS on 1 tooth advanced? It's an outside chance, which I don't want to be true.