blind_elk

I wouldn't worry too much about the ECU error code right now. It would appear that one of the wires to #1 injector has a break in it somewhere. Use your multimeter to check continuity of the wiring. 1 side will connect to the ECU (possibly pin 101). The other side is +12V when the IGN is ON.

Well, as long as you are not driving in Melbourne, feel free to be a bigger risk on the roads than you might ordinarily have been.

Broken throttle cable? Broken return spring on throttle?

1. [sEARCH] !! 2. Get rid of the timer. If you can control yourself for 1 minute before you are ready to stop, then you don't need the timer - it is quite safe to turn the engine off immediately. 3. Synchros. But, if the clutch engages quite close to the floor, then it might be time for a replacement clutch.

What were you doing when all this happened? Even crap turbos wouldn't just suddenly dump all boost.

The catch, attached to the remote cable, has gone walkabouts in the 2nd / righthand of the 2 photos. It's supposed to poke its little nose through the square hole there. You will need to remove the liner from the boot to get at it to fix

The 326s are an acceptable tyre. Check the wheel balance for the vibration.

If it's basically driveable, then I would drive it. 13:1 is not a problem in low-load situations, like driving around town. It's only a problem when you start nailing it.

It is obvious that you have lost the circuit that provides battery backup to the A/C and the clock. Happy hunting. The problem with the visibility of the clock is that they are back-lit - you have blown the globe (like a panel globe) that lights the clock.

0 means the manifold is at atmospheric. Having the gauge show 0 constantly would most likely be caused by the hose to the gauge popping off, or maybe it has split open somewhere. Time to go searching through the engine bay. With the headlights, disassemble and clean the switch.

It will probably have a fuse for the ABS. It will probably have a warning light in the instrument cluster for ABS. Most definitively, it will have a big block of aluminium, probably in the rear passenger side of the engine bay, with several pipes coming out of it.

It's still a RB25 head! There are any number of threads about whether they do or do not fit / work on a RB20 block.

I've seen it suggested that it's x100 mm Hg, ie 700mm Hg, which is slightly less than 1 bar (760 = 1 bar)

My first recommendation would be to install the pistons for the RB23/24 kit (but leave the stroke the same). That way, you get a bit of capacity, but better you get a bit of off-boost compression (I think I calculated 0.5 increase in C/R). That gives you 9:1 C/R; considering the racing GT-R's we had in Oz ran 9.2:1 and 1.8bar, I think the RB20 will cope. DRIFTER - if you stick a head of a larger capacity engine onto a smaller capacity block, you LOSE compression. Apart from the fact that a RB30 head will not fit comfortably on a RB20 block. And why would a single cam head flow better than a twin cam head. I think you are thinking of the RB25DE(T) head onto a RB30 block.

First off, a bit of punctuation would make it much easier to read your post. Now, the amount of battery when everything is static is irrelevant. Starting the motor requires a heap of battery, and simply attempting to activate the starter motor can put an enormous drain on the battery. You need to figure out the battery voltage while you are trying to crank the engine. and anything under about 7V, I think, and the ECU won't work, so the engine will never fire. The ticking sound is probably the starter solenoid clicking in and out because there isn't enough voltage to hold it in the switched position.

You will need it's mounting bracket. The banjo fittings are at a different orientation to the 32's. And the pully is a 3-rib (the R32 is a 4-rib) Anyone wants one, I have one from a Stagea. PM if you are interested.

Ive got one that was broken when some little sh!t decided he deserved the radio in the car. I think it will glue back together OK. FREE, come and take it away (even has the top tab in place)

It should be pointed out that this group, in general, does not support illegal activities on public roads. If you came by your problem as a result of said illegal activity, STIFF! Go pay your mechanic to fix it. I don't think the majority of members here could care less what your problem is if you were street racing at the time.

Sorry, but you need more air in the front to reduce understeer.

You said the engine is not overheating. The piping is hot because its 80 deg C under the bonnet. You will probably have to wrap the piping in insulating wrap to prevent heat transfer into the piping. Make sure it's not in contact with any unnecessary parts of the engine / radiator.

ATTESSA uses the ABS sensors to detect wheel slip that signals it to engage AWD.

Is it the piping between the turbo and the intercooler, or the piping between the intercooler and the throttle?

With the summer holidays upon us, I fortuitously came across some information that might be useful to members for the next time they are planning a long road trip. First off is the RACQ’s website (www.racq.com.au). Under the Travel tab, click on …more on the Travel Route Planner item. In here you can specify your starting location and your destination. Under the Adv Route area, you can specify vias, and you can also specify if you want to go via the shortest route or the quickest route. On Go, the site gives you a map of the route, and a detailed route chart (about the only thing it doesn’t include is the instruction to “reverse out of driveway”!) Having planned your route, you are going to need to plan your pit stops. For this purpose is the website managed by the Federal Department of Health and Ageing; www.toiletmap.gov.au . As with the RACQ travel planner, enter your start location and destination and hit Submit; every public toilet known to mankind. Happy motoring.

I'm available for whatever needs to be done.

Of course it's possible to fit a BOV to a N/A. But a total waste of time, effort and money. And a complete WANK!