hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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I've charged our client $1100 AUD each. those are very hard to do, also note how their dump pipe is in 90 degrees, which we had to make a custom holder to sit it on a large low speed lath. Also every thing break through when comes to machining, had to brace every thing up, a huge job to high flow. But I'm sure they will work well. -
Any way, back to the high flow agenda. We've picked up few jobs from few Chinese 4S dealers this year. I found this pretty interesting so I post it up. Turbo below is a K03 from a new VW 1.8T. Its a tinny turbo for the engine size and runs off an plumbed back external gate setup similar to the EFR turbos. In here the turbine housing needs to hold the exploding wheel in case of failur, so the housing castings are pretty thick, this one is like photo paper thin, the casting just go right through when comes to machining. Have to weld and patch up all the bits that did gone through and here it is : This is a ATR28G1 core in stock housings, should support from 150HP stock to roughly 280HP.
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I would prefer rebuild as no one knows whats in the 2nd hand motor. I've bought a used motor when my first motor blew, luckily we pulled it apart for a quick look, find cyc 1 & 2 had broken ring lands, bought it back swapped for another one that had broken ring land 6. When I was on turbo jobs at JSA, they swapping motors every day as some of their imported cars needs engine replacement, many of the 2nd hand engines they've bought locally aren't really better then what came out. Rebuild it properly is a way better option. Yes on the comp side, turbine side is larger. can be machined out.
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Well no one can fix up yesterday. He's main objective is getting his engine back together soon as possible. Below is what I've done building my test rig, follow that you should have a very solid engine with out spending heaps of cash: I've rang around for the best prices on all parts I got: 1. CP pistons 0.5mm over sized from CJmotors 2. ACL bearings, ARP head studs, and full gasket set from MD spares. I've paid about $1500. Find a good engine re-bore service locally, get them to bath your engine block, re-bore your cycs refer to piston specifications, fit pistons and crank together as a short engine. I've paid $650 If you are technically minded from there you can assemble it your self (mmmm not good idea). Or take it to a trust worthy workshop to have it assembled and dropped in. I've paid $1000 So all up my rebuild cost just under $3200 and its been holding together well since. If you wish going slightly bigger in turbo I can help you getting that done free.
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There is 160mm of clearance between turbo and chassis, Generally none dump pipes will sit that much back, but more depending on direction it sits. Have a look at the photos. some of them are straight and some angles towards the chassis, the once that are angled are more likely touches that abit of rubber. Our turbine housings are made on a fixed fig, cut on a cnc machine with fixed program, every single one are exactly the same. Those dump pipes are not, explains most fits and some don't. For the ones do touch, its a 10mints job relocating that soft rubber pipe. Or we can supply external gated 5 bolt ATR43G3 at a lot cheaper price so customers are welcome to make their own dumps.
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std high flow would has the best drivability which cost $960 inc GST and braided oil line or use PU high flow that also capable of 300rwkws cost $1400 with a brand new .82 rear housing and actuator. The 3540 sort of high flow cost $1200 using all stock housings, I didn't like they way how it drives, its very laggy.
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This is some photos taken from my S2 R33 using the same turbine housing on Xforce SS Front pipe. I can possibly trim out another 5mms out of the turbine housing without actually alter the physical geometry. Depending on the shape of the aftermarket front pipe. Any way fitting the SS1xx requires more work and we will leave as that. G3 is bigger then a SS2, So on Rb30det for good response sub 300rwkws G3 is fine, but for more power with abit more lag go for the G4.
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Need to cut a chuck out of the rear housing, brace it back after machining, then stick in a baby trim 3540 size core, that makes 300rwkws+. Looking from out side its still a stock turbo.
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Fortunately that sheet was sent from a customer, not a test car result. Have a read through the thread, every one made similar power figure as test car as long as they followed instruction guide and with the right setup. I can high flow a stock OP6 turbo to make 300rwkws+. Except it drives like crap.
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Well it is an aftermarket turbocharger working with bunch of other aftermarket parts, Turbine housing was jigged based on my own skylines, did not foul on any parts in mine and the majority of cars we've fitted the turbos to. I'll add additional installation information referring to feedbacks received in the main page when occurs. I will try to make some alterations for aftermarket exhausts suiting stock turbo, based on the assumption that it will not affect any parts of the turbo's performance. How ever be prepared working for few extra hours fitting up any aftermarket products. We will always be happy to help or assist if required. Back to the prototype 11 blade comp wheel. It worked better but not as good as our original SS1PU design. Sheets from standard cast 71mm wheel, note boost drop was due to a split rubber hose wasn't spotted during time been: Our original SS1PU customized Billet 71mm wheel. 11 Bladed 71mm wheel (thin green line, ss1pu thick green line) All 3 turbos had identical exhaust housing, wheel and wastegate setup. The billet 11 blade 71mm wheel out performed the standard cast wheel by 18kws with 150RPMs of extra lag. How ever our customized 6 pair bladed 71mm wheel out performed the 11 blader by 20kws with 200rpms of better response, which is still the best performer. Looking at the 11 blade drawning, big chucks of blades covered greater inducing areas, they weighted more and coops with greater surge. It made more power which I believe that was mainly due to larger trim size with a smaller wheel hub. Compare to SS1PU's drawning, even so that comp inducer is smaller, it has larger gaps between blades, it weights less, span easier, pumped greater volume, and it has clearly shown on the dyno reading. That result was quite predicted.
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Thats the rubber pipe part that sticks out you are referring to I believe. That depending on the angle and length of pre-made aftermarket dump pipe, there were few which fouled from the ones we've installed, basically secure it to the chassis with a zip tie. When comes to a larger turbine housing then it has to be bigger in overall physical size. So in some cases minior adjustments needs to be made.
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We've fitted few of those to customer's cars, most of them on side. the photos taken from the DIY page was done by my mechanic and I normally install it differently on my own cars as that way I don't have to get under the car. And when I say force it in, the restraint is just the bit of tension from the rubber hangers, which the C bracket takes car of that once secured, there really isn't any thing restraining on the front part of the pipe which passes onto the manifold or the studs. I've taken few photos of the ss1pu's rear housing next to a stock housing. As you can see its only marginal taller, there are enough clearance for that on the exhaust side: I also found many workshops exaggerate the work they are doing so their customers are happy to pay more. If you are doing it your self it’s not a big deal.
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Needs to be around 15mm as this is a lot larger turbine housing then stock, plus it needs to have the opening clearance for the internal gate, so it actually needed that bit of extra clearance.
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Its sits about 15mms father back as in total length wise, We've fitted few it won't bend any studs or any thing, plus once the C holder is secured, it will take most of the loads. So I wouldn't worry about bending studs and cracking manifolds and etc from it. So far none of the once we've fitted had issues, you can fit flex pipe if you want to, but not really necessary. All the turbine housings are made ona Jig so every single one are exactly the same.
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The plate in the back is 15mms , just force it on and tighten all the bolts. No need for any flexible hoses, the rubber hangers holding the exhaust is flexible it self. Turbine housing and manifold is made from casted steel, they are very hard materials, won't stress the turbo. And Scott the exducer on comp side is 71mm. I think that would be very interesting running on a SR20det motor.
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The whole exhaust sits on rubber hangers right, there are plenty of free play. There is bracket that is holding the cat, loose up that bracket and there will be plenty of free play. I don't normally disconnect the front pipe from the cat. This is how I fit it: 1. Connect the front pipe to the cat 2. Loosen up the C bracket holding the cat to chassis 3. Fit 6 studs and dump gasket on to the rear end of the turbo 4. Fit the turbo onto the dump pipe and loosely tighten the dump nuts 5. Loose fit the turbo onto the manifold and follow the DIY instructions on the water lines. 6. Secure all bolts and nuts 7. Secure the C bracket. Or this is how my mechanic normally does it: 1. Loosen up the C bracket 2. Disconnect the front pipe from cat 3. Secure the turbo to manifold via diy instructions 4. Secure the dump pipe. 5. Connect the dump pipe to cat. 6. Secure the C bracket
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sure. no worries.
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I can supply the E420D piggyback for dirt cheap, its a good pick as far as money concern. The plug in version that I've had worked pretty well on Rb25det, and software is quite user friendly. How ever I don't have any personal experiences with 1JZ, it should work as good.
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They are 15mm spacers, you can use stainless or high tensil studs in m10x1.5mm thread x 40mm length. I've got mine from Supercheap auto, they are high tensil hex studs comes in those champion bolts and nuts packs, cut the hex stud head off with a grinder and there's the perfect studs. From memory I've paid $8 for the pack also came with 4x 17mm nuts. Yea, I pmed him last night for upgrade, I think the new 11 blade prototype SS1PU should work excellently for track work as the power delivery of that is so linear it almost felt like a V8. But not sure if his class restrictions allow complete aftermarket turbos.
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Thats ok, I will mail you out a spacer monday, and every thing should bolt up.
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mm I remember sending a 15mm spacer plate with the turbo. Please check the box. Also I've left the screamer pipe abit longer then whats required so there will be enough materials for plumb back extension, but other wise it can be cut short. updating some video footages: Down hill run on a GTST R33 with our std high flow setup from ssxracer Same car at PIARC philips island
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If you run above as a twin on a 2.5L then that would be 1.25L per turbo. Which I think a .64 is too big, need to run a .49 size. I can supply you a SS1PU in a T3 with 5 bolt Garrett pattern to run as single on a 2.5L, is that same pattern as T28 or the GTR?. Dynosheet of that on the Rb25det is http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1pu/280811/power.jpg http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1pu/280811/boost.jpg
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Yea if engine capacity decreases then that would be same as the above turbo with a larger turbine housing. And with two of them they will make almost twice amount of power as a single.
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But aren't you be running them as a twin on a GTR?
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Thats on a Rb25det. its this one here: http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1/billet/atr43ss1billet.jpg http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosheets/atr43/atr43ss1/billet/atr43ss1billetboost.jpg Be very interested to see what it would do as twin on a GTR.
