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hypergear

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Everything posted by hypergear

  1. With the SS3 I've designed a new comp wheel based on the SS2. Which worked ok as you can see the power didn't roll off up top. This turbo is designed to work with external gate, but I will test the internal gate either way. I'm not really planning to make it internally gated or bolton to stock dump pipe unless special request. So won't be expansive to produce or retailed. I will calculate the final price once evaluation is complete.
  2. I normally break ideas into bits, think every stage of what is likely to happy. This leads to more accurate predictions. In a fuel injected pistons engine. 1. exhaust charger is on. making the whole exhaust system ie -100 vacuum. 2. when engine runs. fuel get injected into the chamber. 3. valves seals the chamber. 4. combustion take on place 5. Exhaust valve opens. inlet value shuts. 6. -100 vacuum removes combusted hot air out of the exhaust at faster rate. assume all valves seals 100%.The -100 vacuum: Does not affect air flow pre inlet valve. Does not affect combustion process. Accelerates only combusted air exit speed. So engine's not sucking in more air, getting more fuel, having the same level of combustion, technically there will not differences in power or torque in engine out put. How ever in a turbocharger system having hot air out faster means cooler EGT (very slight). Could make a tinny bit of more power and torque up top. Not against your idea, that's how I can picture it would work assume 0 power draw from running this charger.
  3. Well you can just heat wrap the exhaust manifold. That will drop engine bay temp. Heat wise the exhaust manifold lights up while the turbine housing is not. How ever after 22psi the turbine housing set alight too, thats about when its stopped making power. Any way, I'll be making a dual gated .82 rear housing for it next week, for the time been I've fitted a FNT G3 this morning. Bit more lag compare to the SS1PU, but so much more torque and top end. Its still got a linear pull down low that goes out of control after 4000RPMs burning rubber in 3rd gear. The FNT nozzle setup has changed hugely in driving ability and throttle response. I will be dyno tuning it in about 2 weeks for a comparsion. FNT upgrade highly recommended for any one who's currently with older versions of G2 or G3 models.
  4. Its a SS manifold so they do go red lot faster then stock manifold. The turbo only got very hot after 24psi, but before that it was fine, and out put was very consistent. it was lot better then the very first SS1PU trial. This is a prototype thing at this stage, but did give me some feedbacks to work with.
  5. Some update for the ATR43SS3. This is the first dual gated turbo I've designed. It can run either internal or external gate or both. The internal gate setup is more of a road legal counter measure. By the way this is our 44mm external gate Looks familar? Its just the casting that I've bought (binned the original internals to be exact), I've re-engineered the internals to run on 2x heavy springs with travel ength of 30mms. The internals came with this gate was abit of a joke, and there is no way it cannot cause boost creeping and all the cheap gate issues. But excellent casting and casing . Fitted on without much issues: Did couple of runs. The turbo made very wide and spread of torque with very linear power that I was hopping for. my re-engineered external gate also worked brilliantly. How ever I'm 50kws short. Looks like the turbine housing is maxed out causing restrictions. I’ve measured the screamer pipe wrong and made it slightly short. So I had to fit it upside down lol. I’ve attached videos for couple of runs for amusement (notice the flame shooting out of my engine bay). I’ll be remaking a larger housing for this core in about a week and see how it goes.
  6. Check to make sure gate and any where else arn't leaking first. Rb20det don't have VCT and turbo selection needs to be treated same as a S13 SR20det. So those mediocre high flows that felt just alright on an Rb25det will drive laggy as hell on an Rb20det. Rb20det high flow profiles are very different to Rb25dets. Get another dead or alive RB25det turbo, we can high flow it to factory alike response with possibly more power.
  7. lol. You'll kill the turbo by running a oil restrictor in it.
  8. The engine need inlet manifold boost pressure to carry out the more air burn more fuel = more energy theory. By charging the exhaust it can virtually lower exhaust pressure after the turbo. Ie. I run 24psi out of my pretty quite exhaust and I have 6psi in my exhaust by 7000RPMs, Using a very powerful exhaust charger I can get it down to maybe 1~2 psi, might alter tinny bit on the dyno reading up top. How ever running it along would give similar effect as a big exhaust perhaps. Also to get a electric charger powerful enough to produce or suck 6psi you are going to need a 8.4HP electric unit, run that into a 12V setup the current draw is about 600amps? (not exactly sure). Might require less as the dispatching requires less energy then compressing. Try it out and prove it works or not.
  9. Been busy with the SS3 development at moment. So haven't done much into it yet. I will get back to it when I have more time.
  10. Its not really a smallish turbo. Its about how the compressed air is dispatched. The only units that did have the old comp housing profile is that Sample unit, Every one whom bought later samples (after 2nd Aug 2011) or brand new SS1PU units has the updated housing profile, So no need to panic about it. Ok lets talk abit into it. Based on the old SS1PU sample’s dyno reading: I'm very sure using the 15psi actuator and boost controller the red curve represents the exact curve of the 259rwkws you've tuned. So realistically the peak power was reached at roughly 15psi. I'm a bit concert using the high pressure actuator as the peak boost might be too much for a stock engine to handle. Compare to current SS1PU’s dyno reading: Notice I’ve made more power on less boost, This is by the changing of compressor profile that allows compressed air to be “dispatched” faster resulting in lower dispatching temperature. Final results was very consistent as we did about 10 runs and every single run at that boost level was above 280rwkws, while the cooler stayed just little warm. Also the boost level that I'm running on is ok for a stock Rb25det engine. The older sample SS1PU was not as consistent as the first run with cooler cold it made 291rwkws as the discharging temp increases the average power dropped to about 270rwkws after 10 consecutive runs. The cooler was literally hot to rest my hand on. That's real life R&D, I only have a feel that some of the drawnings "might" work out better then others, how ever I can't prodict final results till its been individually evaluated. Any way, DVS, I'm happy to update the comp housing profile for your customer if he can send his housing in for a day.
  11. will cost $450 to drill, weld and make scramer pipes, including material and tax. Please make sure the gate comes with both flanges. cheers the finish is going to be the same as the one in page 29
  12. Yes can be done, how ever big external gates are more effective when working with big turbo in small turbine housings. The SS2 and SS1PU versions has welly matched wheel size and housings. It might not make much difference in that setup. I got the TFI filter for $10 inside discounted tray at Autobarn. lol. Its a 4inch filter with 2 set of sleeves. Worked fine, didn't had any restrictions at all.
  13. Those manifolds seems to work fine. If it can get me a certain percentage of extra power and torque then I won't need to design a huge turbo reaching target goal. Also every thing fitted and lined up fine. I will make this SS3 externally gated through turbine housing.
  14. I bought that off a guy on ebay for $400. I think its a coated ebay manifold. I've fitted the SS1PU back on it seems to have lost abit of response on partial throttle, how ever does seems to delivery wider torque range on wide open throttle. I might do one comparison run using the SS1PU first, to see the behavior of the power and torque delivery due to this aftermarket exhaust manifold.
  15. Are the stock BOV and breathers currently plumbed back into that bit from the factory intake pipe? Any way, further updates with the SS-3 unit. This turbo is made for 350rwkws with optimum response. To make this work at its full capacity as possible I’ve replaced my factory exhaust manifold with an aftermarket item. The new manifold held the turbo at factory position, so stock dump and exhaust lined up fine. In car: With the new manifold it feels awesome at full open throttle, how ever it also feels like it have added lag down low. I will do a back to back comparison with the SS1PU after this run.
  16. I don't know how many times I have to ask people to stop metal sleeving their stock intake pipes, I even machined all my turbo's inlet to 3inch so it won't fit and there you go, some people still find ways around it. You won't make any thing better then 240rwkws regardless how big the turbo you've got on there. Get a proper 3inch metal intake pipe before take it to the dyno. Cost wise you can try Dr.Drift, RE customs, Created motor sports or email Trent when he's in a better mood. Generally you get charged $150/H and to tune it from scratch, takes in average of 4 hours.
  17. If the AFM is moved to cooler piping the car do needs retune. Try to run a 3inch straight metal pipe with AFM and POD connected to the end of it first. Which should be fine. Also check for any exhaust related restrictions. Once the intake pipe has been replaced, I would try a 2nd opinion on the original dyno that it was tuned on. I remember you had 241rwkws, if the current tune feels lot more aggressive on road then that should be lot more then 3kws difference.
  18. Status has a hub dyno. There is a 2kws variance between his to a dyno dynamics roller on a 261rkws setup. I'm aware Sarge's car did not perform as expected (not sure if it was on your Mainland dyno). That is more due to the fact he's running a metal sleeved stock rubber intake pipe. I've asked all my customers to run a at least a 3inch hard metal intake pipe, done back to back testing regarding to it result is in page 57 Car gained 65rwkws by going to a 4inch metal pipe. He will be back for further tuning once his intake pipe is sorted. Expecting more results.
  19. 93 R33 GTST Rb25det with forged pistons (factory compression) and stock every thing else. 550cc injectors Z32 AFM HyperGear ATR43SS-1PU turbocharger with updated compressor profile. 3inch turbo back exhaust Ebay cooler Nistune chipped ecu 3inch metal intake pipe to air box. The most power made was 287rwkws, and average was 280rwkws @ 17psi. Very consistent result with consecutive dyno runs.
  20. Update: This is an update on few minor changes to the ATR43SS1PU's compressor profile aimed to lower inlet manifold temperature, as the initial release had the habit of cooking coolers. In comparison the updated profile gained in average of 10kws peek, using less boost. The power delivery was lot more consistent in consecutive dyno runs also. The most power made was 287rwkws, and average was 280rwkws @ 17psi.
  21. SS1xx installation guide with video footage is in page 90. You can use factory water lines, took our mechanic 12 mints to install, so its not that easy to get on but can be done.
  22. The figures are based on what I've paid for mine allow my test car to arhcieve all those results you are seening today. I'm not bad mouth Nistune, I would run their ECUs in any of their directly supported vehicle models. The comparison is based on the total "value" delivered in the package, You can obviously use other peoples component in the benifits of on your own car, How ever your self does not own that component unless you "buy" it. Finally I only recommend this ECU for R33 GTSTs as I've personally trailed it, it is clearly superior, there for I recommend it and I will look after my customers to own those benefits at their least expenses possible.
  23. Update on the adaptronic ECUs: The Retail price on the Plug in R33 ecu is $1500 We can offer $400 discount off the total price if this ecu was purchased with any of our turbochargers, rebuilding or high flow services. Rough price guide based on the value: Using Adaptronic plugin ecu with software and cable: Plug in and play, no headaces. $1100 including discounted. Using Nistune: Donnor Z32 ECU $250, Nistune chip $286, installation $66, Z32 AFM $300, AFM plug $50, software $220. Total: $1172 (not including cable of $95) Using PFC: $1600, Z32 afm and plug $350. Total: $1950 We can also pass on this discount to any customers whom have bought our service or turbochargers in the past.
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