hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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I've made 267rwkws out of that turbo pulled it out, mailed it to you then that guy's struggling to make any thing over 200rwkws, and he turned skeptical about the turbo, and any one else whom made more using the same turbo. lol -
Adam the dynosheet from your car is based on a high comp + cam gear, it still produced better response to any one else whom used it when my old (retaired) TR43 was on it. So I believe by using the ATR43G3 from my dynorun on your high comp setup will result same or better. How ever no one with a standard RB25det using factory cam gear internally gated can archive it. If I can get the prototype making 280rwkws while boosting 24psi by 3300rpms on a det then that turbo will be making 24psi on at 2800rpms or earlier on a NA + cam gears. So why don’t we all "upgrade" to NA+T motors. The down side is high comp engines pins with equivalent timing and boost to turbo engines. Likely result variances in top end power, torque, consistency as well as reliability. There will always be gains from areas that other one loses.
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Its a good result , high comp engine with adjustable cam gears would make a turbo spool earlier. Plus different dynos with different sittings would read differently. Compare to one of my earlier runs using the same dyno: RB25DE high comp, adj cam gear, 3076 .63 ext gate, with a bleed valve Standard RB25DET motor, stock head, ATR43G3 int gate, with Bleed valve. My run ended early due to misfire while still making 294rwkws. They looks similar in terms of Power VS Response VS KM/H. But I know the SS-1 PU is more responsive.
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See turbochargers engineered in this project are solely for RB25det engines, Garrett would make a turbo to suit a variety of engines. There are room for improvement when designs becomes specialized. At moment it feels like some where around the 280rwkws mark with very steady torque. Its drives very differently to any other turbos I've engineered or experienced so far. I'm expecting an out standing result.
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Sucked Shut Hose Counter Meassure
hypergear replied to Torques's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
Tried that， Doesn't work . the lower elbow towards the turbo side would suck shut. -
I'm not sure what the dyno says yet. Feels like a 3540 comes in full boost at 3000rpms. Its got a crazy pull when you give to it. Compare to SS1 it feels like it has pickedup heaps more torque through out rev range with similar sort of response. But once again the tune in it now is for a much larger turbo so not sure what it feels like once its fully tuned. Will post up results. Add: Went for a 50kms drive, and its got even more responsive (probably got all the thick stabilizing oil washed away). Heaps of torque and zappy response. The best way describing it taking off would be: like a billet leaving the gun barrel. The car just launches, there is not a bit of flat spot down low or any where in the rev range. As turbo builder I'm very happy with the way how it delivered power and torque. The drivability and performance worth every hour spent designing and making it.
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The ATR43SS-1 PU version is installed this morning. I only took it for a test drive based on my old tune. It feels like a huge turbo with babe turbo's response. Its got this really big pull under throttle, I haven't give it much yet, but very new driving experience, will have a interesting result soon. Also you are all welcome to discuss engine changes and torque plus etc in this thread as they would all some sort related to a turbo, I will index them all on the front page making it easier to locate your discussions.
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Torque delivery and driving ability is a major concern when designing new turbochargers, you can keep on posting in this thread. I will index it on the front page.
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Some very constructive ideas. any way, refer to the GenEses development, The belt supercharger probably won't do as by looking at the dynosheet of SS-2 All I need is some thing makes 2psi+ pre 2500rpms, which should increase down low torque and extend mid range. I'm looking at a 35V electric motor: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1276604 Run that into a 3inches duction fan I think I have a pretty good chance getting that to boost. I'm hopping it doesn't self destruct when turbo is sucking at 24psi, or I will need an additional intake pipe which opens when intake pipe pressure becomes negative. If I can program some sort of relay that activate this device in a short block of 5 secs at certain throttle position and have its battery(s) charged all times then it should be pretty consistent. How ever if I do get 300rwkws with the new prototype with stock response then there might be no need for it. Either way its going to be a interesting hobby turbo to work on in the weekends. Torque and wheel spin, if the torque is a built up in a 45 degrees angle then that will be lot less likely to wheel spin then some thing shoot up in a 75 degrees angle. As the driver I personally would like to feel my car's pulling all the way to red from the second I step into throttle. So far the SS-1, SS-2 and G3 FNT have felt great on road. I did have a customer whom I recently built a FNT G3 for, he's made 265rwkws at 17psi on a super safe tune, even thou it didn't max lots of power but he's got a very linear curve and peaked heaps of linear torque at 4000RPMs, then that torque held very straight towards 7000rpms. I will post up his sheet this weekend, that sort of curve would feel excellent on road and beating V8 with.
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Do you mean some thing that’s really good for wheel spin and smoke tyres with? like been able to do easily lose traction and wheel spin through out rev rang?
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I cut my factory BOV open and there is just a diaphragm, one spring and one piston. Once the bay pass whole is blocked the diaphragm gets sucked upwards and the piston opens. I sort of got it to work by placing a one way valve into the pipe that connects to the bov to inlet manifold. As for the GenEses, I'm planning to use a high powered electrical motored duction fan working with a turbo. Can be high voltage external batteries based. The Fan only operates till the turbo takes over. Depending on how long the battery pack can last, we can wire 2 or more battery packs and have some thing switching between the battery packs when one is running low. That battery will have a 12V charger charging it when laid off. So a super responsive high efficiency turbo is required as a base for this setup. Above is just a theory thing at early stage there will be lot more in it. Might or might not work and the finished product might be too expansive to sale. But would be good project to give a shot at proven its possible or not possible with what we've got. There are lots of failed earlier examples that I've already known, so no need to post that. But do post constructive ideas and tell every one what you think that might make this work.
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Still thinking about it, As soon as throttle opens the intake pressure drops, so pointless of building up pressure pre-throttle unless its lots of pressure. Need some thing spins quickly, makes enough pressure to fill the drop with bit of room for positive boost. Then switch it self off when turbo comes on. That didn't work for me, the stock bov just kept on getting sucked open by vacuum.
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That 2 psi is pre-throttle body pressure. So when throttle is given the car launches with 2 psi of boost and build up from there. Still thinking about it, at this stage its 55% looking possible.
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Just disconnect and block off the recirculation piping (the hard black metal pipe connects from BOV to factory intake pipe) off your stock BOV start the car and you will get what I mean. You can obviously get it to work with a plumb back hard intake pipe, which the guy's busting to drive it and don't have time for.
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You must plumb it back after the AFM thats all. Its got a recirculation hole in it, means it will circulating air regardless if the piston opens or shut. I really hope the prototype works then we will be concentrating in the GenEses development, the principle on that is having a turbo car idle at 1~2 psi based on a 500HP turbo, so people can take off and drive on boost all times. Making "turbo lag" history.
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Needed to upgrade the BOV as stock BOV must be plumbed back into the intake pipe after the afm as it has a recirculation port that stops the BOV piston been sucked up when the car is on vacuum. Importance in selection BOV: I've had few China made BOVs that don't work probably including some branded off shelf ones. Some of the springs are too soft, that gets sucked open by vacuum, makes this ciii ciii ciii sound on idel causing engine to hunt, Some of them leaks between the piston and bore, which I call it wrong clearance from manufacturing. A good BOV needs to have just the right amount of spring tension stopping the piston from sucking up, seals perfectly when shut, and release as much surge pressure as possible when pops. If I can't find a good one at the right price then I make it my self. What we did on peter's car is a basic 3inch intake pipe connecting turbo to factory air box. the recirculation pipes needed to be cut short as they are on the way, but can be left bolted at original spot. block off factory BOV and run a BOV in cooler piping. Perferred to have AFM after the BOV but can't do it unless been tuned, any way the idel hunt can be touched up with a tune. Information on BOV and cooler piping fitment is at: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=261613&view=findpost&p=5190870 Also had few members inquiring custom turbo building that can perform at 300rwkws level with factory response. I did few drawings and made some modifications on wheel shapes and trim plus the FNT angle to the SS-1: If my drawning works then we should have 270~300rwkws with stock turbo's response and factory driving ability. With every thing bolt on and stock looking of course.
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Got a High flowed R33 turbo with a .60 comp housing (3inches intake with 2 inches out let) for $1000 with braided oil line and high pressure actuator. PM if interested. Cheers.
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They are all the same. You will need to cut off the rear end of stock actuator then tab in thread on to actuation rod. Once done attach the adjustable extender.
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You mean this stuff: Can be done, I got it to hold 9psi without boost controller, but that was it.
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That would be from boost controller, I found this boost creep and drop behavior happens to customers with return flow coolers. check hary's result pre and after cooler tests: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/261613-hypergear-hiflow-service-continued/page__st__1640__p__5772487#entry5772487
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Ford Gt3540 & Hypergear Tr43
hypergear replied to omgwtf34gtr's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Important: Who ever buys the TR43, make sure to contact us or hyduralic places for a dash 4 size restriction free braided hose. Turbo will fail working with standard RB2x oil feeding lines. This is a old TR43 .58 unit, not a ATR43. This turbo is good for RB20 or a 4cyc engine. -
Thanks for the feedback. Comparing the ATR43SS pagethe FNT affects on above dynosheet is identical. Its more then just the few hundred rpms better in response. It changes the car's driving ability making it lot quicker in acceleration from standing and gear change. To Add FNT nozzle into G3 housings cost $200 including return shipping. All ATR43xx and PU high flowed units produced from 1/1/11 has FNT nozzle permanently casted into the turbine housing delivering better driving ability while not affecting top end power.
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Well I've referring to RB25 powered Stegeas. We used 1980 cosworth wheels 4 years ago, they worked "alright" did not pull enough power nor mid range. Its not just the size, its the overall layout of the wheel. Our current wheels flows more, makes more power without flat spots, better torque, and within same better response range. Its not about the thing " makes the No.s " its about how the numbers are delivered. Skyline has the majority of market with a very good testing plate form. If the new wheels profile makes more power every where on a rb25 skyline, (I have lots of result to prove that) Then rb25 steaga makes no differences. Stock oil line don’t supply enough oil, and could be clogged with years carbon deposits. Might be the reason for your stock turbo's death. That’s the only reason I want them changed. I don't understand what the argument is. Why should we avoid superior technology today and use stuff 30 years old. I choice modern technology that delivers more and better, I don't expect my customers to live up in the past.
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factory run M12 banjo fittings, they are likely to leak on diy. Oil feeding line we sale with our turbos run speed flow fittings: a flared fitting in a 90 degrees hose tail, you gota install it before putting the turbo on to manifold. that won't leak unless incorrect size washers, its a better technology in hydraulic hosing. How ever if that causes issues in the stegeas then I will go back to benjos. Turbo design Vs stock turbo obviously not as responsive (can be with the SS-1) as it is bigger, but no flat spots, pulls all the way to red, very good to drive. Also extremely important to run 3inch metal intake pipes with pod filter. Turbo won't perform and will run wired on dyno with stock rubber pipe, as it will suck it self partially or fully shut under load.
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They are 1980s. we only put in 2010 stuff. Not exactly a 3076 core, more of custom core made to pump more, That’s for skylines. stegea is all different and more work.
