hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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The Shape and figures looks very like 9 sec ramp in comparison to the others did at status. I think you can tune the dip out of 95~115KM/H, Its just like mine with G2, which was just 1 degrees variance in timing. -
FNT
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Posting a little update: This is a member with the updated Turbine wheel profile for the 21U high flow (stock R33 turbo). It made of 260rwkws on 15psi of boost. This looks like on factory actuator. Notice how much the torque curve have improved. Its holding lot better to red line. pretty happy with this ending result.
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I got my rings from CJ motors. they are $35 a pack (for one piston).
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Plastic wheel explodes under high pressure (should say high shaft speed), but both of their turbine side explodes under high pressure and heat either way. Steel wheel would be still be a better pick.
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Bodykits Clearance Sale. Nothing Over $100
hypergear replied to hypergear's topic in For Sale (Business Traders)
Update 27/05/11: Rid (seller) have changed his mind and now wants $200 for the front or rear bar and $100 for pair of side skirts. -
Just clearing some left over body kits for an unfortunate friend whom closed his business. Every thing are in stock in Melbourne Preston. Available list 26/05/2011: All bodykits are none original copies. Some fits nicely and some needs work. There will be no refund after purchase. All front bars and rear bars are $200 each All side skirts or rear corners are $100 a pair Please ring Rid on 0421361472 if you have any questions. Do not PM or contact me for any details. Pickup in Melbourne Preston. Will not deliver, How ever customers are welcome to send in their own courier for pickup.
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There is a bore which the pin goes in, and a grove that holds the C clip in place. Its extremely important to squeeze the C clip fully into the holding grove, once in it stays in. I believe he did not sit it fully in to the grove, probably left half of the clip in and half hanging out. I use C clips to secure turbo bearings as well. I generally squeeze them into the bore slightly above the grove then press it in with tool (a bore size rod), it gives me a "tick" sound once its in the grove, I double check and spin it around in the grove to make sure its secured. They are little delicate jobs unfortunately it wasn't done correctly. Reflex belive they can sleeve the bore and make some new rings, so things are on track. will post some photos when I get every thing together.
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I gave that block to reflex (local engine building workshop). I'm looking for another block at moment but they said they might be able to sleeve it. So I will wait and see. Also I've had a second hand rb25det earlier. Lucky I stripped it for a quick check up and found 1 broken ring land in piston 4. So I would prefer to rebuild, but once again not really worth it when job's not done properly.
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Some update: Have had the engine pulled apart last weekend to find out of what appears like my mechanic didn't secure the gadget pin's retainer probably during the first rebuild, the pin slide out rubbing the block. Leaving a very damaged bore. Ethics its a funny thing, this is a licensed mechanic that I've used for the past 4 years, forwarded many jobs to and pretty close mate with. After diagnoses eliminating faults from hydraulic lifters, I was under the impression that I've got a broken piston from earlier air flow meter incident, so I naturally forward him with this job, how ever he stopped responding to my phone calls ever since. Any way it’s not looking bad for the up coming engine. Getting it done at a proper engine building workshop. Every thing will still be build back into standard specifications for further Rb25det turbocharger evaluation purpose.
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I got one used split fire coil pack for $150. PM if interested
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I got a set of red jackets for $200. Works fine, used. Pickup in campbellfield.
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I think its a very low reading dyno as its reading low through out all rev ranges including the range that is on negative boost level, while the shape of curve appears to be identical to the other 3. Also the comp wheel that sent back appears to be in pail white, while they originally has a light blue materal appearance. It means the comp wheel had very hard time pumping air through. How ever that does not affect the pre-boost power level.
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Most of cars are a mixed bag of all sort of aftermarket or factory parts and there is no way for a turbo builder or even the owner him self would know what’s capably of doing what. Obviously the finger points at the turbo if some thing goes wrong. that goes along with other people running other branded turbos that under performed seeking for advise. There are few people didn't get expected ending result, I generally help or assist and we normally find none turbo related causing problem which some times is obvious but takes a long time. In summary we’ve had scenarios of metal filled intake pipes, restrictive coolers, air leaks, drain caused oil filled bearing housings, as well as none function VCTs, and there are lot more to come. They were all pointed to the turbo before they were diagnosed. I can only make sure the turbocharger it works by evaluating and testing, but can't guarantee about any thing else that works with it. Regarding to pinning on high boost. When there is a restriction the shaft speed slows down, none rotating blades restrict exhaust flow trapping heated air inside combustion chamber causing pinning. I believe that would be the problem. Few sets of data relating to ATR43G2 profiles: Data 1: From our test car (ignore the timing fluctuation), This turbo was sent as exchange unit. Data 2: from SSS_Gohan's R34 Data 3: From recent Sanjay's R33 on stock injectors and afm Notice they all had about same boost to power behavior. I'm suspecting if the dyno used for Halando's car did read low as its under powered by roughly 19% through out all rev ranges.
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Further updates: This is a fully overhual and high flow service for people with Ford XR6 or any Generic GT3582 turbocharger. Including: Brand new CHRA assembly using machined alloy comp wheel with larger blades. Fully machined .70 comp housing and high pressure actuator. Beefed up turbine to bearing housing adaption area. Pretty much all of them are cracked. Ported wastegate and larger wastegate disc The estimate power out put after high flowing is about 680HP, Standard is about 560HP due to limitation from .50 comp housing.
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Some minor updates: Suffering from major set back as my R33 had its 4th engine failure. Been told cyc 3 is down in compression and filled with oil. Likely is from that dyno run which the AFM plug vibrated it self out, it made a very bad detonation and the engine had with a little rattle since. Time to rebuild again will updated with photos Also I've had a small batch of SS-1 castings produced, and by making them in quantity I've saved in average of $200 per unit in materials and labor so they are now $1450 inc GST, high pressure actuator and braided oil line. That is a perfect upgrade for any one who’s chasing 250rwkws in factory response with plenty of usable power band.
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Tuning Rb25, Power Drops Off At 5000Rpm
hypergear replied to Sparky206's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
If that is a final run with correct dyno settings on full throttle I would suggest to check the factory actuator adjustments or it’s in need of a better actuator or a leak from some where. else it was very similar to mine when I discovered the valve issue, I could initially get away from that dip by patching up timing and till it stopped responding and the depth of the dip became random. The R33 Rb25det would generally give a small dip after 6800RPMs while Neo engines don't. -
That would be a specialized high flow profile for the Rb20det. ATR43SS1 or ATR43G1.
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Happy to have a look at it, bring pass when ready. Generally you won't get any oil passing through the shaft collar on the cold side unless bearing housing is flooded. I would be checking the drain side.
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The ATR43 series with T3 with round outlet internally gated is only $1150 plus tax. SS1 if you don't mind make your own dump we can build that for $1200 plus tax. Because all work carried out are in Melbourne, large percentage of the retail prices are made up from direct labor costs. And the Aussie dollar is stupidly high, means all Australian producs will be more expansive comparing to overseas imports. Plus we have to pay for all factory overhead costs as well as taxes on every thing, I'm thinking to setup a factory and move all production to China which we can shave more then 50% off in manufacturing costs as well as paying lot less in overheads.
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The SS series consumes too much labor time to make at this stage specially with SS2 that have to under go CNC machines. I'm waiting for some SS1 castings, hopefully be able to shave about 10% off current retail towards mid May by producing them in batchs, which is still cheaper then modifying and install the Kando turbo with possibly better performance. will announce final price when ready
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I think the best way is to send the whole turbo in, I need to exam the rear housing, wheel and bearing housing and see what I can make to suit or at what sort extend I can have it modified for factory setup. Or what sort of power are you chasing for?
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I would prefer if you can get me a complete turbo. The Turbine Geometry needs to be specifically engineered to suit a specific type of wheel. Its alright if you are happy to trail but can't guarantee the same result as if its with original housings. PS. The Greddy's bearing housing is very different to Garrett. They heat shield and height of the bottom half is very different. To make that adapt into T3 turbine, I need to machine a adaptor ring, weld it on to the T3 housing, fit the Greedy bearing housing then machine if the physical height of the wheel sits some where close to the turbine tube. Its going to be a very complicated process.
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I think I can modify that into T3 factory rb25det's turbine pattern. will cost you $400 total if that is do able.
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At moment I don't have any feed back on those. I'm more leaning towards developing a bolton big single for those.
