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hypergear

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Everything posted by hypergear

  1. you need to remove the T piece then connect the boost nipple to the actuator. The boost controller goes in between. Left is a VL holden turbo, right is an R33 Rb25det S1 turbo.
  2. Well with this SS prototype profile I'm expecting it to make an street friendly 260rwkws. I might be able to squeeze out 300rwkws+ since the billet comp wheel we've machined has larger blade area then the casted 71mm wheel. How ever by altering the blow direction for faster shaft speed also picksup heat. We see how it goes. Mill-180: I would be expecting your car's got all the fuel mods, ECU, cooler, free flow exhaust and hard metal intake pipes. I will refund you 30% of the high flow cost after have your dyno results received. I'm expecting them to make around the 320awkws mark.
  3. might have been a 8:1 compression pistons. You can use it to run lots of boost if that is the case
  4. This is a more detailed DIY guide as I've installed an ATR43SS today. The whole job of remove and install took 3 straight hours with an licensed and experienced mechanic on site.
  5. The turbo’s installed. Here are some DIY information, I've divided it into 9 steps, I will post them at the DIY section. you can check them out on: DIY, Click Here I’ve set it to run on 15psi, Its very noticeably more responsive with blow angle modification done. I haven’t driven it hard yet, its making positive boost on from 2500RPMs 2nd gear and pulls hard to 7000RPMs. The power delivery was smooth like factory turbo. Its very quick from 0 ~ 120KM. Will get it tuned and post some results coming week.
  6. Little update for the SS profile: Above is running a Duel ceramic ball bearing cartridge with light weight billet 71mm comp wheel in .63 rear and .60 comp. I've modified the blow angle inside the turbine housing which might work better or might not. I will explain the concepts in it if it can prove better result then traditional. Be installing it tonight and uploading a proper DIY guide.
  7. In regarding to GTR turbos we can currently high flow them to 350HP using factory housings, Response felt like the N1 turbos on road. I haven't had any one supplying dyno sheets on those yet. I'm happy to offer a 30% discount on those GTR high flows for some one whom can supply a dyno result at their peek capacity. Has to be in Melbourne. Been doing abit of thinking also, If we are going to engineer a turbo for GTR it would be a large single turbo with twin entry turbine housing engineered to bolton to factory manifolds and customized twin dump pattern for stock dump pipes. I will need to get a car to engineer that. probably be starting in the 2nd half of the year. Also the SS profile its some thing engineered for RB20dets, they run ATR28G1 or G2 chra with .60 comp and .64 rear similar to the 2530s. I'm currently doing some drawings for an external gate plumb back setup, will have some photos shortly.
  8. Its going to be few weeks away as I'll need to engineer a good jig to ensure every turbine housing comes out are exactly the same. I will test out the prototype to see what its like on road and dyno before passing it onto any customers. Also how many percent of yous are running E85? The Servo near by have stocked this type of fuel. But if the majority is still on 98 then data from E85 would be pointless.
  9. I heard from one of my engineering college whom said the material used in Toyota's engine components are denser which made them super strong. Probably related to the "Pan cake" ratio of the material when it was made. But I haven’t had this confirmed.
  10. Steam valve seal only leaks on cold. I think its a turbo related issue. check shaft play, oil drain, breathers, and make sure engine is not over filled with oil.
  11. Sorry I'll be back on the 9th. As Objectives for 2011: Object 1: We'll be updating ATR43's internal wastegate system to external gate pump back setup. Which will have an 50mm external gate attached to turbine housing with the screamer pipe run parallel to the dump pipe. every thing will be perfectly engineered, users have to spend $50 to have the end of scream pipe welded into the dump or it can be left it externally bleeded for off road applications. This should improve current boost control stability while keeping EGT slightly lower. I will try and manage to get that update done without having to increase the current price. Objective 2: We will be concentrating into further development of our SuperStreet series. Which is a reliable and responsive small turbo for around 250rwkws applications. Objective 3: We will be exploring the possibility with cam gears. If there is a clear advantage of having, it will be supplied with all ATR43 turbos at a very low cost with cam angles pre-adjusted. Objective 4 (bonus objective): You all know about the VNT housings. We will be using this foot print developing FNT (Fixed Nozzle Turbine housing) which has fixed blow direction nozzles in optimum angle. Objective 5 (bonus objective): The "Gen E ses" electrical and exhaust gas powered turbocharger system. Which uses a powerful electrical motor to spin a large CHRA assembly to certain RPMS. If I can get this idea to work we can possibly having 20psi of boost pre-2000RPMs in a 600HP turbo setup. If any of yous whom has any experiences, advise or suggestions on any of above objectives do feel free to share. We will be posting data and information as we run along. Any one who needs to get their turbo high flowed do feel free to send them in, I will be straight on to those when I get back. All the best for 2011!
  12. Test difference in pressure drop before and after the cooler with boost controller engaged. If no pressure difference present, means exhaust manifold pressure have forced its way out of the wastegate. You can get either a larger turbine housing, more cropped turbine wheel, or a stronger actuator. The only actuator that seemed to work with boost controller for 25psi and hold 25psi applicaion is those large can ones or build your own with 2x springs inside the actautor hat.
  13. AFM maxing out. too much boost for standard setup
  14. Just get them from Supercheap auto. But get them in stainless steel.
  15. What sort of T2x housing is it? got a photo? I might be able to get you a genuine Garrett housing or modify yours with a T3x flange.
  16. Few things that I'm aware of when moding my test car. Hope those information helps: known issues: -Engine running 85-90 deg C, gets warmer after power runs leading to loss of power, Cooling system marginal. (aftermarket radiator?) Check for rust. Some cases the radiator has a build up of rust that affects cooling efficiency, flush it out of that is the case. Also RB25det runs of a clutch fan. When the clutch wears this issues also happens. -Crank angle sensor, RPM signal noisy, unstable after 5500rpm (no idea about CAS) Sounds like the bearing in inside of it. -Problems with Idle Air Control vavle and idle stability. Some hunting after startup especially when cold, Fuel mixtures and timing all ok. (IAC clean will fix this?) There's a small motor open and shuts the valve, normally a few spray of WD40 would fix it. Else get a new valve. -Car randomly drops down to 5 cylinders (2 occassions, after 30 seconds it fired back up) ( taking a guess, is it the ignition module or the CAS? or both?) Could be Coil pack miss-fire, spark plug flooded, faulty injectors, or coil ignition unit. if the car runs like a crap then I wouldn't drive it. normally tunners would retard of timing and make it rich. So fix every thing up get it fully tuned before driving it around. Also did you end up making a 4 inch metal intake pipe with a free flow exhaust?
  17. More timing + Most boost = more power. Generally you would want to set more timing as possible with out "knock" also within the range which the engine is capable of handling. With ATR43G3 model you might want to ask your tuner to advance more timing around the 4000RPMs mark which would give you stronger mid rang, the .70 58 Trim version made 30kws difference. Also it looks like your tuner has deliberately tuned your car just under 300rwkws. So depending on how comfortable he is with your engine you can run those waste gate studs to creep more boost up top.
  18. I think there is a way of fixing it by running 2x actuators without the gate controller. means 2x actuators gets connected to 1x extension rod. I'm pretty sure that would work, just need to engineer the bracket that fits the turbo and into the engine bay. Or run external gate plumbed back, I will design a housing for that to suit ATR43 series when I get back. In this case you can possible run a 50mm external gate with a .63 rear housing with G3 CHRA that should make 300rwkws+ with out much knock while gain lot better response.
  19. Sorry missed your post earlier. Would you (or any one) know any advantages that should be mentioned in having those anti surge slots in this specific setup?
  20. nope. a small T3x frame turbo. T25 won't fit
  21. There is a rubber diaphragm in side those actuators. If the diaphragm leaks then it will not/hard to open by vacuum pressure. See if you can blow air through that actuator. If so it means its not good.
  22. This understanding is very wrong. Air been pumped out of the compressor wheel is compressed. The air been sucked in is not. Small intake pipe and restrictive air filter system will limit the amount of air that can be sucked in. That makes the comp pressor wheel harder to turn: The most noticeable causes from that would be lose in power, boost level and response. On the hot side, slower shaft speed chocks the engine up on top, since the turbine wheel can not spin fast enough the blades of the turbine wheel becomes a major exhaust restriction. That increases EGT, causing detonations. On a simple term, you can suck in a lung full of air lot easier and faster through a bigger strew. This has been tested back n forward 3 times with back to back dynosheet in our thread. I've deliberately machined the inlet of the comp housing into 4inch so people have to to get rid some of the OEM parts that is not suitable for high performance applications. In term of fittment. The turbo with oil line supplied will bolton to stock every thing, How ever It needs an 2.5 inch 90 degrees elbow and a metal induction pipe to complete. We can supply those bits to complete the installation. Details instructions with photos are also on our thread.
  23. Its just a 45 degrees silicon bend hose and a 4inch 20cm long metal pipe with bov return and a pod filter. I'm current overseas, Go to this place called Motul Weld at point cook, they can make this pipe for you cheaply.
  24. By pod straight of the turbo I meant: Relocate AFM to cooler piping, Relocate BOV to cooler piping Have a 4inch metal front pipe with pod straight off the turbo. I would recommend a 4inch intake pipe for the ATR43G3. The Rev210 mods doesn't work, Don't try it. I've done back to back dyno test with it, detailed results are in my highflowing thread.
  25. You normally hear a a spool down noise but a zz zz zz or abnormal high pitch sound would mean the bearing in it is on its way out. Also check the turbine wheel. Pretty much all GTxxBB high flowed RB25 turbos I've had for service / turbine housing upgrade had burnt turbine wheels.
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