hypergear

the Arias 20thou over sized pistons would be 8.6:1 using stock head gasket. With cosmetic gasket depending on what it is, would set your engine below factory compression ratio. Which means more boost is required to produce the same amount of power with laggier response as the whole power band shifts towards the right. How ever this setup is ideal for larger turbos with plenty of boost. So this baby high flow might not be the exact turbo for your application. With the stock valves and valve springs, I'm unsure at what psi they floats, conditions of it varies. Unsealed valves acts like vacuum leaks (with fuel)affecting response, power, and make the car feels hopeless pre-boost. I would definitely recommending stronger valve springs for high powered applications.

You need to get it machined to suit. Very tinny chance to find one that suits your heat shield, bearing housing, and turbine wheel in the preferred A/R size.

.82 rear internally gated low mount will be ok for 300rwkws. The twin scroll's available in .84, I personally experienced no difference, might change with a twin scroll manifold.

The the whole reason of having an high pressure actuator is to hold boost. Put it back the way it was, and go for another tune. I really don't like people tempering with the actuator as most people lefts them un-adjusted. it opens around 18~20psi without boost controller. It is not Jammed. Intake pipe is the pipe that connects the turbo to the pod filter, it needs to be an hard pipe at least 3inch in length. If the turbo can not suck in or dispatch air then it will result in lag and lose in power.

You will need a high pressure actuator to hold boost up top. Should have no issues getting 260rwkws. are you running stock intake pipe?

The Performance springs is just little bit stronger then standard. The supertech springs are probably the best you can get at this stage. Those are stronger then the type B Tomei springs which are cheaper as well.

Well if pistons and head gaskets have dropped the engine compression then you will need more boost to make the same amount of power. Make sure you have a 3inch metal intake pipe and a free flow exhaust. Try a run with dropped exhaust, high power gain means restrictive exhaust. Also highly recommend a high pressure actuator if you are running a stock actuator. This turbo is capable of doing around 260rwkws.

Just Nistune ECU with 800cc injectors. It was noisy and rough, had broken ring lands on 3 pistons and chewed out valves due to float. Should really run forgied pistions and stronger valve springs to do any thing like that. and its 431rwHP instead of 428 lol.

Mine made 428HP on stock motor with 98 fuel and full boost by 4300RPMs: Except the motor didn't last too long.

Job is complete. Will be CODed back to you in the morning.

Ok little update: This is our very first 5 axis machined comp wheel. It is based on the older 56T 71mm casted model. The material we've machined out of an block billet alloy (pan caked). Which we can remove more materials of the hub leaving greater suction area, and run longer blades. Since more materials are removed the wheel is noticeably lighter in weight, longer blades with additional suction area would result in greater induction volume based on the same shaft speed. I'll be expecting a very slightly increase as in boost response as in terms of when it starts to spool, and incensement in top/mid range power. I will be testing this with our current ceramic ball bearing CHRA assembly once my engine head is reconditioned. I'm looking forward to see any difference in comparison to current results.

For the lash setup there isn't much of choice, I only found Tomei Type A, B and Supertech. It appears the supertech ones are 15LBs stronger then the Tomei Type B spring kit. I will be using those. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Supertech-Valve-Spr...=item3a52093c3b Hanalado: The cat won't appears as melted like butter. a good performance cat has very big cells. Ie. 120 cells in a 4inch barrel. Also been a .63 rear housing the amount of lag you've got is greater then people using a .82 rear housing. I would suspect leaks on the intake side which including unsecured spark plugs, BOV, head, plus all clamps and hoses.

Well I don't want any thing that could alter the performance of a stock RB25det. So it will still be a stock head with stronger valve springs.

Check valves. Same happened to my car. Engine felt very strong with crisp throlle response after rebuild. That slowly went away and felt worse after each dyno run. Been told by engine builder this is due to unsealed valves, mine were all under 40%.

Couple of thing that is extremely important. 1. After turbo installation do check pressure leaks ( I can supply 2x simple steel plug with a hose nipple for $50). Turbo will not perform if there are leaks. 2. Most of our turbos are installed with a 18psi high pressure actuator. by pass all boost controlling devices on test run, Boost gain from EBC based on stock actuator will cause massive boost creep. 3. Make sure the car's got a at least 3inch metal induction pipe with pod filter. Do not run those metal stuffed stock intake pipe. 4. An good exhaust system should restrict no more then 10KWs (My HKS silent power made 3KWs restrictions on a 316rwkws application). So Dyno tune with cat and exhaust dropped, (front pipe only). Do a touch up run with exhaust on after tuning, Get a better exhaust if you see a massive power drop with exhaust. If above procedures are followed you will definitely get the desired power goal. Also people with RB25det R33s. pay attention to those 20 years old valve springs and valves. Mine were all chewed out and worped possibly from valve float. That will act as boost leak, causing lose in power and response. Recommend stronger valve springs.

That is very strange. what sort of intake and exhaust setup are you running? would you have the boost curve? was this a .63 or a .82 rear? a photo of it would be great. Also what sort of fuel are you running?

Check the oil drain to make sure its not blocked, and nothing is leaking oil onto the housing it self. If it isn't then I would pull it off and have it check out. BB turbos can only be cheaply rebuild before wheel contacts.

Seals are just stainless steel C clips. When a BB unit blows smoke it means its 90% had a rub on the housings and needs a new core.

That would increase exhaust manifold pressure before turbo, but pressure would drop as soon as air travell through that valve. In theory it makes not affects. unless if the valve is directing combusted air to an more favorable spot of the turbine wheel which spinning it faster. But lots of the pressure / flow engineering stuff makes no sense. Would be interested to see if any one could do a controlled run on a RB25det in Australia.

Thanks for the feedbacks Trent: Thanks for the job. That customer like to have power but concernt about his transmission. Yesterday he decided to go with the powered up profile so he won't need to upsize the turbo when he's hardware are ready to take further, So probably keep it just under 270rwkws for now. Turbo's just finished today, it will make some serious power without much boost. Have fun power digging

Parts of the turbine wheel broke? It would feels like that.

Thats all the information sent by the customer. Its a manual stock 1JZ VVTi Gear box. So not sure if KM/28 * 100 rule applies. If so that would be 20psi by 3700RPM which is similar to the OP6 high flow. Thats the basic high flow, I would expect it to be pretty responsive.

As for people who's interested in our 1JZ VVT CT15B high flowed result: Above is off a unopened Manual 1JZGTE with factory exhaust manifold.

Thanks for the feedback. We are in the process of designing few new machined comp wheels. Will have a new series of Ceramic BB turbos with machined comp wheel soon.

That noise is form your engine head. If oil change doesn't help check those hydraulic lifters. I would recommend Motul Turbo light 4100 engine oil.