hypergear
-
Posts
4,108 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
25 -
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by hypergear
-
I've had hard time figuring out the cause of my test car's roughness, it turned out to be the injectors. JECS supply OEM parts for Nissan, most of 550cc or 800cc JECS injectors that I've seen are high flows. I've been recommended by my tuner about the new ID injectors which works extremely well. I've also used brand new Power enterprise and Nismo injectors in other test cars that worked exceptionally well too. Generic highed flow injectors are unlikely to have as much droplets per spray compare to purposely built aftermarket injectors, so personally I would buy brand new purposely built injectors. Turbo wise, every thing you need to know about high flows, different combinations of wheels and housings, installations, tuning, trouble shooting, latest ideas, innovations and solid data of each every one of them are all in our high flow thread, Its been indexed, please have a read and feel free to post up any questions.
-
Buy brand new injectors. I throw all mine out (800cc high flow) and replaced them with brand new set. run heaps smoother and getting 2x the amount of mileage out of the same amount of fuel.
-
I had this issue for agers. turned to be a bad injectors, also cyc 1. The faulty injector seems to be shooting fuel like a tab instead of spraying it. Mine were high flowed injectors. throw them out, replaced them with a brand new set and every thing worked, run heaps smoother and consumed lot less fuel.
-
should have oil shooting out of oil feeding line with just a crank. I had this issue with my rebuilt engine, and that was with a faulty oil pump.
-
I did put in quite bit of thoughts into the rear adaption point and if you follow the thread there has been different turbine and adaptor casting developed for this purpose. All the G1/G2/SSx series has an direct open ended port to the flange, the G3 with large .82 rears probably had a tinny bit of material on the way due to its size but all of it has been tapered with plenty of clearance, that won't cause any issues. I think the main issue is the restriction from factory manifold. I’m predicting all G3 series are capable of doing around the 340rwkws mark with a good aftermarket manifold. -
The one you've seen (based on status reading) are on 12 sec ramp timing, I've already tried to compare those at status,. mine's on 9 sec with current software. Based on 9 sec ramp they almost the same. information and comparision on dyno ramp is in page 73. That is a very standard G2. The ATR43SS series with FNT turbine is probably some thing to look at if you really want the power curve to stand out. I've running a high pressure actautor so won't be able to run any thing less then 20psi. The R34 Neo motor was running on 15psi and made the same power every where as mine which is interesting.
-
I'm not sure. From what I've seen this issue happened to people whom made crappy metal filled intake pipes (also blamed the turbo). Very similar to yours scenario, which runs on very low timing, can't control boost, and any thing done to fix it made the engine pining worse. Check page 57. Yours looks alike but doesn’t mean its the definit same problem.
-
Also we did multiple runs today, didn't have any issues with it pinning with high boost. If it does pin at 16psi It generally means if the turbo's having issues sucking in or dispatching air (into engine and into exhaust). Lot of shaft speed losts when this happens, and exhaust blade will act as blockage for the engine to pin. Hanaldo I enlarged your sheet it appeared to run on 14psi??
-
Here's today's tune from ATR43G2 in .63 rear housing. Dark blue is no boost controller straight off the actuator, Max of 255rwkws @ 17psi Light blue is with Wastegate controller, 267rwkws @ 19psi. Driving ability is pretty good, and very agressive. Its a good little turbo for around 250rwkws mark. Dyno run is based on 9 sec ramp timing. I've got a strange dip around 3500RPMs not sure if its VCT related, but doesn't seems to be felt on road. Almost identical Compare to same turbo based on an earlier run on a R34:
-
1. Undo the E-clip on the wastegate arm (don't lose it) 2. pop the extender out and lose up the positioning nut 3. Rotate the extender clock wise (to make the rod shorter) to about half a hole sorter then where the arm is. 4. Force the extender back onto the wastegate arm, put E clip back in and job is done. I can supply the silicon hoses for $20 each (total $40). Get a short 90 degrees elblow pipe from your local exhaust shop ($20). and few 3inch clamps. Note you won't need the adaptor part if you are using an AFM on front of the turbo. It will fit all ATR43 series with a 3inch inlet.
-
Well if the wastegate is slightly open when its supposed to be shut then that acts as a massive exhaust manifold leak. Sure it will still opens when boost hits, but it will require most pressure to maintain the same shaft speed. This makes it hard to controll boost and mega laggy. It take less then 5 mints to find out and easy to adjust. Instructions are in page 49, Do check that out.
-
From yesterdays installation: Hard intake pipe to suit stock air box. This is a intake pipe for all ATR43G1/G2/SS-x units, can be used to work with high flows as well. Its made from: 2x 3inches 45 degrees silicon hoses, 1x 90 degrees 3inches metal pipe and 1x flange adaptor (same as stock pod adaptor). Every thing appeard to be pretty stock on turbo side. Haven't had the car tunned yet, on road it feels very smooth and responsive similar to SS-2. I'm expecting it to sit around the 260rwkws mark. I will also do a test on the impact of having AFM on front of the turbo. Hanaldo: The one you've got with wastegate controller would be the late 2010 model same as what I've got on now, but it doesn't feel like yours. Please do a quick check on your actuator and make sure the wastegate is shut with actuator preloaded, it looks like if there's a wastegate leak, instructions are on page 49.
-
We produce around 200 brand new turbochargers every year in Melbourne along with rebuilds and high flows. There is a possibiliy that 1 or 2 out of the lot is odd that goes under warranty. We can work some thing out to have the replacement sent first, so you don't left without a car. In the past I've had customers with: Intake pipe sucking shut underboost Coil pack issues People run stuffed metal intake pipes issues pistons issues Engine head issues Turbo oil delivery issues Split dump pipe issues Ebay dump pipe issues Cat issues Collapsed Muffler issues Intake system leaking issues Mechanics left gloves in intake pipe issues Mechanics left clogh in cooler pipe issues Turbo Oil drain silicon filled issues Turbo oil drain bend/kinked issues List goes on, and the turbocharger is the only part that people blames. So in this case you can have a fully working and tested turbocharger with all tuning data, that we know works. I would perfer every customer getting their expected output.
-
This Friday I will test out the current model ATR43G2, I will post up the result with all tunning data. If you are happy with the out come, I will take it off the car and swap it with the one that you've got. If you still have issues then we know its not turbo related.
-
Also referring to your email. Your stock OP6 Neo turbo only made 180rwkws on 14psi which that should be way over 200rwkws any where else. I'm not sure if its a low reading dyno or some thing is really wrong with the turbo or some thing else. unsure what the boost curve is like but It looks like its down on power every where. Was this with the updated .63 rear housing or the older version? Dynodynamic dyno result and video footage in perth (I think its the same tuner as yours): Page 64: ATR43G3 297rwkws VCT off 285rwkws VCT on Page 63: Dynodynamics dyno 291rwkws ATR43G3 There are 2x more can't find them
-
ATR43G2 .63 is rated to about 450HP, it should make close to 250rwkws mark around 16psi. Figures looks very low and very laggy. Doesn't seems to be right. Bring it back for a check up or I can upgrade it to a G3 profile in .82 rear and .70 comp free, Which most customers are making around the 300rwkws marks. Any way, I just had a G2 .63 installed which is due to a tune on Friday, I will post up my result with my timing and fuel map for a comparison.
-
Yes tuned today pulled 313rwkws made no differences in response, torque or top end power compare to bush. Ball bearing turbos appears to spin easily down low or off the car. Shaft in a Bush bearing turbo rests on brass bushes when car's powered off, obviously greater friction at that point trying to spinning it. How ever once oil pressure presents and increases, turbine shaft would be sitting on a layer of pressurized oil. By that stage, the rolling object of a bush bearing setup is liquid, ball bearing setup is still balls. Impact of rolling object at that stage is almost none. Up to date, the best bolton option for a stock Rb25det are the ATR43SS series, I will sort out some thing to have them produced in small batches, which should drop lot of overhead costs. Will discounted prices when it happens.
-
Up for grab is our ATR43ss-1 profiled turbocharger made to suit factory R33 or R32 Rb2xdet setup. Bolton to factory manifold, dump and all lines. Item is used for 1 week on our test car for testing. Comes with 12 month warranty including all high performance usage. It is good for super responsive 250rwkws applications based on manual Rb25det with supporting mods. Asking price $1280 including GST, actuator and oil feeding line. Send to any where in Aus for $30 additional. This is first run high pressure actuator only wastegate controller off. I think this actuator is abit too stiff for this turbo, but thats all I had for the day. They will be equipt them with a 14psi or 7psi actuator. Run below is based on 9 sec ramp timing. Now with a manual boost controller set to 24 psi maxing out the turbo. Run below is based on 9 sec ramp timing. PM or call 0413457185 if interested.
-
If oil's coming out of the inlet side with out any obvious shaft play then it means you've got an oil drain related issue. Check the drain pipes make sure its not kinked, bend or capable of storing oil. Also remove and check the drain adaptor if you or your mechanic sealed it up with silicon instead of gasket.
-
To build it brand new from scratch will cost $1560 inc GST, takes roughly 3 days to complete. Couple of manufacturing steps involved and many man hours required. I've pmed you an offer for the one that came out of my test car. please check and reply if interested. Thanks.
-
Got the ATR43G3 Alfa model installed today. Took short video footage of it on car during idle and switch off: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0tBzdAqQBM I'm still running the 265rwkws tune from SS-1. Its obviously not as responsive but pulled lot harder up top, I'm expecting it to perform similar to ATR43G3 with better down low and mid range. will post results once finished. Also stock exhaust manifold doesn't seems capable of flowing 330rwkws+ regardless the difference in size of turbo. This turbo going by specifications should crack 550HP. Will consider to upgrade manifold soon. Or send in a pm if any one’s got a good conditioned custom low mount for sale.
-
I would like to see the differences that additional nozzles makes. FNT nozzles swirls the air as it enters the turbine housing, but too many of it can cause flow restrictions. Note how the turbo spooled with just bit of air shoot through the turbine inlet, I could not get this effect with traditional turbine housings. I’ve been waiting to see this with the effects of ball bearing rolling objects.
-
Next up the ATR43G3 Alfa version. With Duel ceramic ball bearing and penta nozzled FNT turbine housing. Unlike traditional ball bearing cartridges this one runs a splashed oil delivery setup instead of concealed force feeding setup. This is unlikely to suffer from minor oil contamination related issues. Will be testing next weeks and hopefully every thing go according to plan. This is also the very first penta (5) nozzed FNT turbine housing, should produce more down low torque with better mid range. Short video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0tBzdAqQBM
-
standard Garrett T3x rebuild kit will do the job fine. assume every thing else are re-useable.
-
Sorry I meant 205rwkws on 4000RPMs. from the 265rwkws run with boost controller.
