hypergear

mmm stock comp housing aren't that bad, we can machine the inside out of it and it should be ok to flow around 18~20psi of boost before they start to surge. the current CHRA we machine it in there is ATR28G1. That is very equivalent to a 2860rs, or we can also try 2845 or machine it off to a 2855, but don't know the affects of those at this stage.

Oil should 7/16 unf You can get from speedflow the part No. is 341-04

Looks like this sort of behavior: Above was from worn valve springs and valves. That dip could not be controlled by timing or fuel, the depth of the dip is random. Also you are likely to need high pressure actuator to hold boost steady up top.

Just make it $1450 inc GST for the SS-1. And I will include high pressure actuator, oil feeding line as well as the 12 month warranty. Also: Uploading some video footages from 3 weeks ago regarding to the Prototype ATR43G3 Alfa ceramic ball bearing turbo. One of the injector went funny towards the end of that run, the best it made was 334rwkws on 22psi of boost. Didn't get the sheet, will go back with it again with aftermarket manifold, new injectors and more boost. For now:

The comp setup of the KAI appears it was engineered for larger capacity engines or smaller engine to run on very high boost. So you can still get the peak power out put of the Pro-s assume you can run more boost, but not necessarily the amount that factory engine's happy with or with its current turbine housing and internal gate setup.

the SS-1 should make just under 240rwkws on 14psi. I can only run a single nozzle in those as the turbine housing doesn't have enough room to run more. I believe the SS-1 is the perfect combination for 250rwkws applications. Smaller profiles is do able, but lack in peek power and torque but doesn't make any differences in response just like the GTRS comparison above. I'm pretty happy with the way its currently set.

Air inside the cooler piping is compressed. Means the greater volume that needs be compressed the greater time would require to compress it. The cooler pipe should just be big enough to maintain boost pressure from the out let of the turbo, and ideal to have the shortest travel length. So the current 2.5 inches will do fine or its at least more then big enough for the 2835.

They share the exact same housing geometry, except the surge grove for stock comp wheel needs to go (high lighted). To use that as the SS comp housing the whole inlet part of the stock comp housing has to be machined out and resleeved to have a flat bore.

Yes can be done. Just odd that I have to charge you $50 more for the alloy sleeve then a brand new SS-1.

Here's SS-1 VS GTRS based on a 12 sec run as the GTRS was tuned on 12 secs ramp. We only did like 3/4 of a run as the AFM plug vibrated it self out and made a massive knock. Trent was abit scared to put it back on. Thick red line is ss-1, thin red line and green line is GTRS

I don't think FNT would much effect in performance with new .82 rear at this stage. Will post results once tested.

It cost more time and effort to setup the FNT which do add up to the final bill, So if I can get similar or getter results with out the nozzles then I would perfer without them. I can install a 3.5 inchs adaptor out of the turbo with a 4 bolt flange if you want. That would be very free flowing.

We've rebuilt and high flowed few turbos for XR6, They make power easily with massive amount of torque. That would be the next turbo motor I would like to look at. The new NA model are not bad picking up speed from standing which gives me a pretty good idea of where I would be on take off. The other funny thing is the driver's motive. no one manifest their motive at lights, every one quitely parks next to your at red, the motive gets exposed as soon as trafic lights turns green. I'll be interested to engineer the turbo that can launch my car out on the very front without having my motive exposed while I'm parked. Well, if the updated geometry can perform similar to the FNT setup then I won't be using the FNT setup on this housing any more. I can make the adaptor for around $150 depending on how complex it is.

can't rebuild. you will find its very hard to pull it apart in one piece. They are only good for high flowing.

Here's the rear of it. Its can be in a 5 bolt externally gated pattern, Nissan 6 bolt or V band internally gated pattern. Or you can give us a drawing we can make it into what ever pattern you need. Also went with a mate in a Ford XR6 none turbo for a cruise. At lights, I've managed to keep up with him head to head 1st gear and over take him on the start of 2nd gear with very little wheel spin. Using traditional .82 PU rear, he over takes me by a 2/3 of a car length on 1st, I normally catch up head to head on end of 2nd with lots of wheel spin and over takes on start of 3rd. The new turbine geometry is the best could happen to a PU or G3, Its got so much torque with very strong and solid acceleration, totally changed the way of how it behaved on road without the expense of setting up FNT nozzles. I'm very happy with it.

The SS-2 is the billet comp wheeled model with FNT turbine. Cost $1900 to build, inc GST and oil line. the G3 .82 is $1450 inc GST and oil line. There are no additional charge on current turbine geometry.

The ATR43G3 will make that power fine, the updated Turbine geometry will also give better power down low. Or for the best street result I recommend the ATR43SS-2.

New .82 PU high flow is installed. Every thing looked very stock. after some driving this geometry is the far best out of all the others tried (Prototypes made none / little differences or worse wasn't posted). Much nicer on 1st and 2nd gear, lot faster off the lights, the response is noticeably better, and it pulled like a train with 15psi. It has definitely changed the nothing down low behavior from the standard geometry, and I'm pretty confident it can pull 300rwkws+. Will post result when ready. Also I've worked on 2 customers cars this weekend. One had mega lag and the other one had some smoking issues. The customer with the lag issue: Originally thought to be unsealed waste gate, turned out to be a split rubber hose. The split isn't obvious to low pressure or smoke testers as the hose is hard when the car's cold. I've only detected by pressurizing the actuator through connected hoses. Pretty hard to find but I'm happy to have that sorted. When above issue experienced try: 1. Release the wastegate actautor from the wastegate arm, open and shut gate by hand, and check for signs of jam. 2. If wastegate swings fine, preload actuator, and connect it back to the wastegate arm. 3. Remove intake pipe and drop the dump check for any signs of damages to the compressor and turbine wheels, feel and spin the turbo shaft. The turbo assembly is generally good if nothing appeared to be abnormal by step 3. 4. Pressure test the intake system, and all vacuum hoses. 2nd customer had smoking issues: Checked shaft play, drain, breathers and every thing appeared normal. It turned out to be an over filled engine. I've experienced same issue with my sil180 after my servicing workshop purred in 5Ls of engine oil. We all aware the drain pipe sits slightly above the sump, it can not drain if submerged under oil, causing turbo to flood and leak through both ends. Flooded turbo will smoke, under perform and heat soak. If experienced with similar problem: 1. Check turbo shaft for abnormal play. (free spinning and un-excessive play generally means good turbo.) 2. Check Oil drain pipe to make sure its not kinked, bend, or capable of storing fluid. 3. Check engine breathers or catch can (I've see some poorly engineered catch cans that holds pressure). 4. Check engine oil level, Make sure its on the H mark, but not above it. Contact your turbo builder if all 4 steps tried with smoke un-cleared.

PU and G3 .82 revisit: Most customers with above profiles have managed their peak power goal, How ever its also found to be laggy, unfortunately large frame .82 turbine will not pick up great response. In this experiment we attempt to change its driving ability by altering its torque behavior through alteration of its turbine geonometery. The goal would be Smoother and consistent increase of toque that allow driver to feel the solid increase of G force and sticks the car on road through out greater rev range, plus ultimately better off boost driving ability. I will be installing this turbo this weekend hopefully be getting some positive results.

Most people would still perfer their turbo to flow up to the 300rwkws mark. So I would be going back to the PU high flow profile and see if there are ways to make the .82 rear housing spool abit earlier with better driving ability. and yes I can use factory comp housing on the SS-1 turbo. Except the inlet side needs to be fully machined out and sleeved to suit which cost more then machine a new housing from scratch. Can be done.

Its a factory Nissan wastegate assembly, I didn't had to do any work on that part. It was opening and shutting fine when I had it. on the photo the gate appeared to be shut and sealed. You can test it by force it shut using actuator when its cold. Then disconnect the actautor, go for a drive (back off once reaching 15psi) and see if any differences are made. If not then the leak is not on the turbo side. Update 16/4/11: We've found a split vacumme hose to the boost controller lol. Boost appears to be back to normal. Car's booked in for retune.

This turbo will be maxing out around the 290rwkws mark, Rb30 will also be making similar amount with lot better response and lot more torque. Its not really a small turbos its more like a baby 3540 which is the biggest I can squeeze into a OP6 rear housing.

Little update: This an 52T version of the SS-2, I don't think I will be producing it as original SS-2 performed better. But it did make more power between 4000-5500RPMs and peaked 522MN of torque. Driving ability on road is excellent. peak 291rwkws @17psi, 9 sec dyno ramp. (sorry abit hard to see, printer's out of ink)

Graph appeared to be an massive air leak, but there is nothing wrong with the wastegate assembly and turbo's obviously working. I really delt any air leaks to came from the turbo assembly. Check VCT, cam timing, and any cold side leaks.

I spoken to trent yesterday about it. Its a OP6 rear ended KAI high flow, so the wastegate assembly is factory, unless the disc burnt off or some thing it shouldn't do that. It really sounds like the VCT controller, unplug it and see if that makes any differences, if not then some thing's gone funny with it. Also check cam timing and etc are all in right places.