hypergear

Big thanks for a anonymous member who've donated a OP6 rear housing for this project. We will be running it in a real OP6 rear. Looking forward to consistent 300rwkws.

Further updates: This is the very first prototype of our Duel Ceramic Ball bearing turbo CHRA. Its running two air craft caged ceramic ball bearing cartridges in a fully CNC machined billet aluminum bearing casing. Its been then inserted into a GT28 bearing housing for water cooling ability. This turbo is oil and water cooled. Short Video, span by a small compressor. Above CHRA is made to suit a OP6 Rear housing for 500HP high flowing applications. Since OP6 housings are running short I will be testing it in a .63 ATR43 rear housing with a .70 Comp housing. Hopefully it works according to plan.

But on the same time the divider is also reducing the snail size, I would consider the twinscroll housing is touch bit smaller then what they are rated to. I persinally didn't notice any difference running a twin scroll or a single with the same CHRA.

The best bet is run a .82 rear housing with adjustable cam gears. Which should set full boost to 4300RPMS without affecting too much top end.

Yes Power curve at: http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosh...3/273rwkwhf.jpg Boost curve at: http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosh...rwkwhfboost.jpg Its been on the test car for about 4 weeks. No shaft play, perfect working condition, and comes with 12 month warranty. Price is $950 including oil feeding line, highpressure actuator, and wastegate controller.

Is above on Race fuel? what sort of block? the WRX or Cosworth might have slightly shorter gear ratio so 4500RPMs @ 20psi might not feel laggy. This is a ATR45 (modified GT3582 sleeve setup turbo with different comp trim for better response on RB25det) on a Fully stock RB25det with factory head, cam and cam gears on 98 fuel. Which is also the most responsive result out of all RB25det GT3582 readings with stock head/cams/cam gears on 98 fuel. For FULLY STOCK, Power and boost curve doesn't look bad, 321rwkws with 22psi by 4400RPMs and 180rwkws by 4000RPMs. 4th gear on highway is pretty good, in low gears you really feel the lag. (click to enlarge)

The fuel indicates leaking injector seals. Leaked fuel vaporize and you smell it through the cabinet. It will likely to leak or leak more violently under high boost pressure.

First of all GT35 turbine has very opening ends with large fins. It has great flow capacity due large fin space, unlikely to chock. Also means has less materials for combusted air to turn the shaft down low. Its some thing that I would only use for high-mid / Top end power applications. Larger A/R means bigger snail, it flows better, less heat, and back pressure. How ever pressure reduction means slower to come on boost. .82 rear with a GT35 turbine wheel and 82mm comp is big enough to support a RB25det with over 350rwkw. But very laggy, I wouldn’t want to drive it as daily. We've done many tests with various sizes of housings the .82 and modified GT30 turbine (taller inducer, larger exducer, ATR43G3 turbine) have proven to deliver the best result with consistency. For a streetable GT35 based turbine I would run that in a .63 rear with a 76mm comp, which is also very drivable and consistent, or run a GT3582 core in a small .63 rear with 50mm external gate.

By pass boost controller and see where you are at. It should spike a little then drop. Massive spike would be from EBC. The Drop is a nature due to nature of high flow (exc ours with gate controllers) plus weak actuator.

I did come across the original build from some US car forums, and she's the actual mechanic who made this happening from scratch. Pretty amazing for a chick.

One's compressed the other is not.

Run 3inch intake pipe. Will make better power, response, and keep the turbo cooler. You will find metal sleeve does all sort of strange things. 60rwkws difference on mine, It did not work for me.

That would be from intake and exhaust restrictions and injector seal leakage. Also Trent didn't had too much time adjusting wastegate controller that night. Its getting back on the dyno tomorrow.

Major update on our media section which contains most of ours and customers dynosheets plus video footages:

you should have heaps of oil come out of it on the drain when engine's running. If not means you are cooking the bearings. You need a braided oil feeding line in most of cases, which is normally supplied with the turbo when originally purchased.

The most I've yet managed to high flow a OP6 is 295rwkws @18psi flat on 98 fuel with wheel spin and that was pretty consistent. Bigger wheels can lower back pressure, flow more air, and work with a bigger comp wheel. Lot of turbo builders would back cut some of the TA and TB turbine wheels to archive similar and the down side is massive lag and missile switch sort of acceleration. Means poor driving ability. So try to get the power and improve better driving ability is the most expansive part, involves making new wheels trail and error. So in another word building a new turbocharger to suit a certain purpose is cheaper in research. And of course customizing a turbo for performance to extreme requires alternations to its components, just like a bigger and powerful car would have better breaks, stronger gear boxes and etc. To me boost control is different compartment to turbo building. Which is why most performance turbos are made to suit external gate. The key is Force = pressure x area. You need to work around that to control boost.

Nice beating that R33

Yes I did read that through. Its a very interesting thread, reading it again after 7 years, its abit newish. He's using a bigger turbine housing (.81?), I don't think its a bolton housing for the RB25det tho. Also he's running the T04's 71mm comp wheel, I'm very concert about surge issue linked to Slide's high flows years back, The turbine wheel is too packed and heavy, But thats all there is available back in the days. I did used mild wheels for high flowing, they comes to boost quick, but not making the sort of power I'm hopping for, and most people whom wants high flows are trying to squeeze the last KW out of it in comparing to some 300rwkws setups. This is the majority direction that high flowing is heading to. Of course small wheels are also used for people who's chasing max response and mild power. Traditional wheels and setups are not made to do this. Stand up to the challenge, we had to make lots of custom parts so the turbo has the efficiency and last. None standard turbine wheels, gate controllers, high pressure actuators are all bits of the missing pieces archiving this goal. If I'm high flowing that guy's turbo today with his .81 turbine, I can easily max it over 300rwkws consistently. Back to the boost holding problem. Rolls you mentioned about the twin entry actuators, I think if you can some how connect the bottom entry to exhaust manifold pressure without the heat and bleed that with a boost controller it should work, How ever it will act in the same principle as having a waste gate stopper, So consistency would be a concern.

Not all of them. I had sleeve bearings and Ball bearings with stock bearing housing. The problem is in the thrust washer, which is a flat piece of stainless steel. This moves under high back pressure causing the whole shaft moving towards comp side. I had 2x of them, all got broken wheels with massive back n forward play in exact same way. I think that design must've been changed now. I've engineered my own collars, bearings and bearing housings to work with high back pressure and heat in high flows,its not just a 360 degrees thrust bearing. Honestly I'm not worried about the little sucker been hot, its engineered for this purpose. Also the Gate controller's design has been changed long time ago. The current one is not a stopper at all, it can set to hold any sort of boost pressure you want it to, very easy to adjust, and very consistent, I've changed dyno ramp rate, threshed it day n night, went on few different dynos, it was very consistent, I don't believe you can hold 18psi any other methods.

That doesn't work. I've tried it. because the exhaust manifold pressure is lot higher. Might work if you connect that into exhaust manifold, which will burn the diaphragm. I've spent few weeks investigating this issue, I've tested every thing, and all it does is spiking boost. But on the end I've found a way to hold it, it works perfectly, and there is no other way that you can make it to work. I've managed to peak 297rwkws and consistent 273rwkws holding 20psi with the 2IU R33 turbine housing. link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...et-t338520.html This also depending on they type of turbine wheel and housing profile method, above is very unique. Plus I strongly advise to no run too much boost if you are running the Ball bearing XTR GCG high flow with Factory bearing housing. I had few sent in for repair, there is a weak bearing component (stock part) that fails under high back pressure.

Don't wast you money on the HKS actuator, Won't work. You need customized actuator with wastegate controller. Send the turbo in, We can make it hold as much boost as you want as you've seen on our results.

One or more turbos is missing some of their ceraimc turbine wheels?

Need a .82 rear for the RB25det Neo engines. You will find the .63 is restrictive up on the top. Little more updates. This is the result from Harey. from PU high flow with a R34 GTST. Its got abit of exhust and intake restrictions. Final run of 280rwkws @ 17psi 98 fuel. Sheet: As some of yous already seen from the public thread, This is our updated 21U R33 GTST factory turbo high flow profile. I did read many posts in regarding to high flowing with the factory 21U RB25det R33 turbine housings. I did some testing in it with a modified exhaust wheel, I like to share this information publicly and I believe this is the absolute max this thing can flow. I also managed to hold 20psi flat with that small housing using a wastegate controller and a high pressure actuator on 98 fuel. The max power it managed was a stunning 297rwkws when its cold, with final run of 273rwkws consistent. The little sucker was burning red hot.

Looks like they are.

I got a high flowed R33 turbo if you want. good for 270rwkws. pm if interested