hypergear

If the car's been tuned perfectly with 19 psi it will not cause any problems. Those actuators are $100 each on their own.

The actuator I fitted is in 20psi. Should hold around 19psi with no boost controller or 19 psi is the minimum boost you can run once setup correctly. Keep it on 19psi, lot more fun then 15psi .

Technically the turbo is engineered to last the same amount of mileage as the actual engine in standard setup. I guess that doesn't work so well or there won't be any turbo re-builders.

I took a video of how the actuator should be adjusted. This must be done every time the actuator bracket or housing position is altered. I've written done the steps in my video description. Its a 5 mints job to do. Will notice massive difference in response once done. Need to get the car checked on dyno once all set correctly.

R33 = .58 turbin / .60 comp

KW = RWKW * 1.15 (Generally) KW = HP / 1.34

For the get the best result: Run 3inch metal intake pipe with pod 3 inch turbo back exhaust, Perfer to drop the exhaust from front pipe. Do not restrict intake. Doing so will reduce power, drop boost, and cause turbine side to over heat.

No. I did another run with the G3 then I had engine issues. This is a sleeve bearing turbo. I modified the shaft to fit with little bit of crop.

That was from wheel spin. Sam's straps broke before that run. It wasn't straped down.

Larger the trim is the more vertical power behavior you get. To get a smooth build up of power you need to run a large comp housing with a small trimmed mid size comp wheel. I wouldn't call the smoother the better. turbos do produce this vertical power increasement has a very sharp and strong punch on acceleration. while the build up turbo would give a lot smoother sort of feel. But if you are dragging, The car that reaches peek power and torque quicker is more likely to win. We can build them to do either, so I would say it depends on people's preferred driving ability. I think your above power curve of the ProS is similar to this one here: Its a customized GT30 wheel running on stock cams and 98 fuel. That would be the most responsive towards 300rwkws as you can get. Car wasn't strapped down, had plenty wheel spin.

For once more I've said the comparison is pointless unless certain conditions are met (which is not), and I'm not the person who posted them or responsible for their actions. I've seen Simon-R32's results. How ever that is running off .63 rear housing with a 44mm external gate alone with all other mods. If I do all those to my test car then I can also get his result. He's not running 98 fuel either. After reading through his thread and understood what he've gone though for his result would you just bolton a 3076 in .63 int gated rear to your factory setup and hopping for 300rwkws with pump fuel? How ever my goal is building a solid bolton turbo that can produce such power with less as possible modifications done to the factory package. If I modify my car to the stage as his and selling my services to others based on that result, I call that fraud. I'm not trying to modify my setup to bring out the best out of a turbo, but trying to build a turbo to bring out the best of a "stock setup". To me GT3076 in .63 rear internally gated can not make a genuine 300rwkws with fully stock setup and 98 fuel. From my experiment It will drop lot of boost with standard actuator, replace it with a high pressure valve and gate controller, it creepes so much heat that turned it self red hot and you lose power after every run.

No. you can not beat a 300rwkws skyline on road with good street tyres. I run 10inch Dunlop Potenza in the rear. by end of 3rd you be over a car length behind. Works every time. Also the more responsive the turbo is the more likely you will wheel spin, and it won't help you getting the torque you need by 3rd. I guess this thread is about the most responsive 275rwkws. So run 52T 76mm comp in .60 housing with GT30 wheel in .63 rear with ext gate.

I already said the comparison is pointless unless we use the same dyno with same car. I didn't make any of those sheets either. To get 200rwkws with 3076 .82 by 4000RPMs that is possible with race fuel and cam gears which you can add heaps of timing down low. But I haven't seen any one made that with all stock parts. Or use a 71mm comp wheel with cam gears. But I think its hard to crack 300rwkws with 98 fuel. See this is a baby 52T ATR43g2 high flow in .63 rear with cam gear and 98 fuel. Its pretty close to 200rwkws by 4000RPMs. But Its going to be maxed around 270rwkws ish. If you run Race fuel in that you will get more then 200rwkws by 4000RPMs maxing out at 300rwkws.

I believe the post he's referring to is your best run with dyno pack dyno. Thats before every one's reading about your tricks in getting better response. I'll certainly be trying that out. In that run I did not use a EBC or a MBC. My boost isn't holding. It only spiked 21psi for a brief moment. I'll make it hold 21psi with gate controller, hopefully be picking up another 15kws up top. I've strictly built the test engine in factory specifications. Means any healthy RB25det will have no issues doing the same. Also Trent's Hub dyno reads within 2KWs difference to any roller dynos I've know. Also I've done 298rwkws with same turbo at Dr drift's roller dyno with a stuffed engine. You can check video footages of that run in page 45. As far as dyno concern Status dyno does not read any happier then a accurate roller dyno. Every one who've used status can certainly confirm that. How ever I'm still testing out few other combination improving response and top end, so stay tuned.

For those manifolds you need to: 1x slot 2x bolt wholes in the center so they can fit your engine head. 2x Machine the manifold faces flate or they will keep on blowing your gasket 3x Re-enforced the welds at the collector. It will workd fine after all that. Unless you can do all that your self, or it Cost more then the actual manifold.

R33 GTST turbo PU high flowed .82 with high pressure actuator: 800cc injectors Nistune ECU Z32 AFM 600x300x75mm FMIC 3inch turbo back exhaust 3inch intake pipe with pod. CP pistons Pu high flow .82 Stock engine head Stock cams Stock cam gears Stock exhaust manifold Stock inlet manifold Stock fuel rail Stock engine block, Con rod & Crank. Video of 3 dyno runs: Final result:

ATR43G3 .82 with high pressure actuator: 800cc injectors Nistune ECU Z32 AFM 600x300x75mm FMIC 3inch turbo back exhaust 3inch intake pipe with pod. CP pistons Stock engine head Stock cams Stock cam gears Stock exhaust manifold Stock inlet manifold Stock fuel rail Stock engine block, Con rod & Crank. This is a controlled run based on BP 98 Fuel, No boost controller, No wastegate controller. Video of above run is up for people whom's interested to watch:

Thanks for the info. Its a very helpful thread to read. I'm definitely buying one of those things to test it out.

Would you know the member's name and which forum it cam from? They all got different profiles in them refer to what the original customer wanted to do. Or you can pm me a photo of the comp wheel and turbine wheel I should be able to tell you what it is and what its capable of doing.

I have a different view, On the same time mine isn't holding boost either. But I'm not saying No. to the slight boost pike. 2ndly my job is building turbos, I know the type of wheel that you are using. My wheel has larger air gaps in between fins, That 50kws increase "could be" from that while yours is slightly out of puff. The latest run is a stockie high flow not a ATR43G3. Even so it still made more torque and power, plus I still have the option of using BB cores. Also my engine's not even run in during that tune. I had compression all over the places with run in oil. But either way, like I said your sheet is the most impressive I've seen in the stuck of people who's running this turbo with better response and power then lot of people who's got / without more mods then you do. Also I know people with dynos that reads heaps more then others. So I only use Status and Dr.drift's dyno. They are creditable tuners and their reading is within 2KWs difference. I can guarantee you mine is accurate, wither your dyno is happier I do not know. So unless your car is on Status dyno there is really isn't much of meaning in this comparison. And in your list of mods: 1997 R33 GTS25t Unopened RB25DET, 165,000kms BP Ultimate 98 Fuel Nismo 555cc injectors Walbro 255lb/hr fuel pumpfgvbbbb GTSLink Plugin ECU Apexi AVC-R boost controller with Norgren pressure relief valve aiding spool Cheap random 600x300x76mm front mount intercooler K&N filter with 4" intake Garrett GT3076R .82a/r Internally gated turbo Trust Power Extreme 2 exhaust Your EBC setup will make noticeable difference in response.

that is in .82 rear. The difference with an Air box would be, well it sounds very differenct lol. It just doesn't pull as hard, and feels like I'm down in torque.

^^^ Thanks for the graph, how ever above results does not represent the actual aspect of any of the cars in it as none of them runs identical modifications or run on the same dyno. I guess some of your have already seen the result of our PU high flowed R33 turbocharger. I took few photos when its installed, and tuning video is now up: Video of 3 dyno runs: Final result:

Lithum: First of all the comparison graph was made by a customer not my self, might not be very accountable as its on a different dyno and different car perhaps I shouldn't put it in here. How ever yours is still the most responsive GT3076R in .82 with pump fuel in the Dynosheet section. The stronger mid rang might been more boost by I haven't seen your boost curve yet. I believe even at same boost curve this specific version of ATR43G3 is very likely to beat you in power and torque because its not using a standard size Garrett wheel. which I believe yours is a 76mm 56T 12 blade. I've built and rebuilt plenty of GT3076s and I know how they behaves on RB25dets. on road this one delivers a noticeable stronger punch but not as smooth. I can modify GT307x to do the same or modify the ATR43G3 to match what you've got. Plus you should mention that you are running a special valve for response increasement. Without it yours is just ordinary. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...181-loadimg.JPG Please post all your reply in my development thread. I didn’t meant or expect to hijack this thread. Thanks

Might be valve springs, I'm not too sure. I did hear a light pop just before the rev limited kicks in. That little dip is always there. Any thoughts would be great.

Thanks for support guys. Details of this high flow through out development and manufacturing is in our high flow thread. I took Jeff for a spin that night with air box lid on. Very noticeable difference in how car reacts to throttle compare to a POD. The car was dynoed with a POD and 3inch metal intake. I got some video footage I will put up later on.