hypergear

Little update: This is a cheap sleeve bearing rebuild option ($950 inc GST) for people with totally blown (need new core) GT3582 turbos.

Pull it out, strip its housings and check the conditions of its wheels. Turbo is suitable for rebuild only if your wheels are in ok condition with out too much of shaft play. Unfortunately most BB turbos would require a new CHRA for overhaul.

Check the turbo for shaft play, If the turbo do appear to have over a mm of back n forward play it means the bearings and seals are worn. Else make sure oil drain is not blocked or kinked, and engine is not overfilled with oil.

Here are 3x dyno sheets for your reference as stock intake system, stock intake pipe with metal insert didn't work. I also believe your friend Pat experienced very difference result before and after upgrading to 3inch metal intake with pod. His comments are in page 39. Results: 1. ATR43G2 Stock intake pipe with air box no filter. Intake pipe sucking shut. 2. ATR45 running stock intake pipe with metal sleeve stopping it from shutting with pod filter. (left) ATR45 running 3inch metal intake pipe with pod filter. (right) The sleeve insert run ended early as it not only restricting power, it did some thing strange (knocking?) and inconsistency in AFM reading. This run ended early. So please use a 3 inch or better 4 inch intake pipe with a good flow pod filter. Or at least use that for tuning.

Neo engine's got bigger cams and solid head. Would definitely go for a Neo engine.

Once turbo is high flowed you can still run about 10psi with stock ECU and 98 fuel. There will still be a very noticeable difference in power and torque. It is recommended to go for a aftermarket ecu some injectors and etc to get the full potential of your car. Some updates from yesterday: Engine's build has been completed. Taking the old engine out with respect to its 6 month service. New engine is dumped in, alone with a evaluation subject: OP6 high flow How ever the engine fouls plug on crank. Tolled it to Dr.drift today and hopping for the best

The cost to high flow is $960 inc GST and braided oil feeding line. Every thing bolt back on. The cheapest ECU option would be getting a Nistune ECU installed and you need a set of at least 550cc injectors and a Z32 AFM. Will get you 230rwkws with 14psi of boost. With The Nistune ECU you can order direct from Matt on: [email protected] its $350 installed. Some of your local tuners can also install it as a package with the tune. Also some update with my engine build: The engine build has been complete and it is now back into the car. How ever it floods it self every time I crank. I guess I have to toll it to Sam to play with the map. Not having much luck with it this time.

Just high flow your stock turbo with a Garrett 2860RS core or similar. Which basically turn it into a 2530. That works pretty well with RB20det engines.

Its not going to work with just actuator. Tubine housing is too small. Which results very high exhaust manifold pressure. When manifold pressure > Actuator spring load = pressure forced open wastegate = boost drop. Force = Pressure x Area We spent lot of time investigating this problem and there are 2x solutions this problem. Type 1: fixed Force which is same as using a ultra high pressure actuator. This resulted massive boost spike at certain conditions. Type 2 which we currently using is made to reduce Area. That worked out very well by giving a very nice creep up top. Also depending on the combination of turbo that you've got. Not all turbos produces more power with more boost.

lol how many liters of oil does your catch can hold?

It will need brand new CHRA if wheels are broken. for a brand new Garret BB CHRA you will be looking around $1100. Or we can build you a sleeve bearing CHRA in idential spec for $800.

too much crank case pressure I guess. normally happens when rings are tired.

Just out of curiosity. Did you end up doing it?

Its a 71mm To4B comp with 1.15 T04E turbine with back crop. Its not good for any thing. The comp is too small for that sort of turbine, will create heaps of lag for little power. Its not going to work well on a RB25det. Specially with cropped turine in a 1.15 A/R Turbine . lol it will feels like down grading back to NA. We can build you some thing makes more power with heaps better response if interested.

Thats just oil coat burning off the casting. Pretty normal.

Thats normal for o2 sensors to jump around. If it doesn't jump means its dead.

From memory you had to swap few wires. PM STATUS he should be able to help you out.

We can machine your OP6 housings to suit a Garrett GT2860RS Disco core which makes it very similar to a HKS2530. Would max around 220rwkws with plenty of response on road. Since its a .63 rear you also might want to use a 52T GT2871R CHRA, which gives that little bit of extra power and torque.

Another update: This is a OP6 high flow that we did for a customer's R33 (none Neo engine) earlier using our updated turbine wheel. It made 241rwkws at 15psi full boost by 3450RPMs with 98 fuel. I'm pretty happy with it, Dyno sheet showing results of tuned maps before and after high flow. It made more power every where without more lag. The other thing that I'm pleased with is the power curve which sits lot more gradual instead of linear. So the wheels will be able to convert lot more of those energy onto acceleration momentum.

This sounds like a throttle position sensor or AFM issue. But more towards throttle position sensor. Or unless if you have a really really dirty fuel tank. Which dirt clogs up the pump or fuel filter casing inconsistent fuel pressure. You fuel pump would sound very loud when that happens.

Can you define "surging" in detail? in terms of your car's behavior when this happens.

If you get a Buzzz ..z zzz z.zzz sort of bearing noise on vehicle power off. It could be bearing noise. Which means they needs replacing.

All engines has blow by. You means signs of excessive blow by or indication of engine failure? If that is the case: Lots of oil throwing out of breathers, Poor engine compression, Engine noise, oil soaked spark plugs and etc.

If its just been complianced there are few of things to be done: 1. Install a front mount cooler (we can supply). 2. Install a strong clutch (recommend Xtreme clutch kits at Ace Brakes ) if your is stock. 3. Install a full 3inch turbo back exhaust with a honeycomb cat. (JSA are Xforce dealers they should have plenty). 4. Get a set of 550cc / 700cc injectors (Try Cjmotors). 5. Get a Z32 AFM. Try Japart or see if JSA's got one. 6. Get a 3inch metal induction pipe made up (Try Glenroy exhaust) and get your self a good pod filter. 7. Get a PFC or Z32 ECU with Nistune chip (You can get that done at my recommended tuners). 8. Bring pass your stock turbo and have a chat, we have few different profiles and turbine housings to choice from. 9. With few hours of Dyno time at Dr.drift or Status your car would be pretty sweet to drive.

Remove the engine breather out of the intake pipe and see if oil clears away. If not check oil drain and turbo shaft play.