hypergear

Should've got all the parts before the tune. Generally you need: 550cc injectors Z32 AFM Boost controller 3inch metal inake pipe with good pod filter 3inch exhaust with Honey con cat High flowed turbo Strong clutch fule pump Nistune or better ECU Feed it with BP ulitmate.

I had a xforce exhaust on my sil180. I replaced the its cat with a Meta cat (200 cell?) and it made 282rwkws fine. Every thing fitted ok. The only thing bad is its too loud (none varix) if that was for road use. I drove it from NSWs to Melbourne, It made my ears ring bells for the whole evening. Got pulled over and EPAed, that cop said I was heard from 500 meters away lol. I've installed a HKS silent power cat back after that. It was lot quieter (like 5 times not exaggerating.)

Get a 3inch half meter long pipe, 1x 3 to 2.5 inch 45 degrees reducer, and a pod filter. Remove all the crap that is connected to factory intake pipe: BOV metal pipe and breather metal pipe. (lol funny how Nissan makes metal bov and breather pipes) Connect the reducer to the turbo, 3inch metal pipe to reducer, pod filter to metal pipe. Then: Move your AFM to cooler pipe, and BOV before the AFM. If you do want to use stock BOV you need to connect a one way valve in the vacuum hose that connects to it. With the breather just run a rubber hose and connect it to a catch can. Job done.

naa its not some thing you can do at home. involves many procedures and man hours. engineering must be made perfect for it to work.

But you limiting topend power. For .63 rear 3576 is better. For 3582s it should be run on .82 rears on RB25det engines.

Well the restrictor is on stock oil feeding line. If its not drilled out then that might be a problem. Also is this the Ceramic BB units? If the wheels and shafts are in re-useable condition it shouldn't be too expansive to repair, other wise it could be very costly. Its best to speak/email to your supplier or manufacture for support, they should be able to assist you on repair.

You need to check your oil drain setup if it was doing that from the date you installed it. Also check to ensure your engine is not overfilled with oil. Else check turbo for back n forward and side to side shaft play. Excessive play mean worn bearings (and seals) due to oil starvation or contamination. If that is the case ring up your supplier for support and repairs.

Highflowed turbo is a brand new turbo engineered to make the most out of your stock housings. So your housings would be the limit factor in terms of max power. The engineering process is inversed, lots of factors to consider, and lot harder to get a perfect result. With brand new turbos, The housings are engineered refer to CHRA assembly and engine size. So it would have some advantage interms of max power and boost control, How ever it might not fit your stock setup. So if you are just after abit more power for every day street use, high flow is recommended, else get a brand new turbo.

We've got plenty of them and they are used in most of our high flowed units. PM if you need one.

We normally use the Garrett Big can actuators which is rated upto 23psi. We can also modify your turbine housing so your boost curve hold flate to 7000RPM. The ceramic turbine wheel is my only concern. It might breaks off under heat and pressure just like the OEM turbos do.

The only thing can affect a turbo's normal response is the wastegate flap. It will do that if not shut. So to pre-load or a stronger actuator. Else send it in, we can engineer a rear housing for it to full boost by 3000RPM. It Just might spin its ass off. lol

This is called a Garrett TB34. Running a small trimed (48T?) 76mm comp wheel in .58 turbine housing. Sleeve bearing

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Those stopper part no longer exist. I've found out more effective ways to archive better results. But in another hand. If I run 24psi out of .63 turbine with a high pressured external gate, won't I be expecting the same sort of heat and back pressure problems? considering the amount of air bleed out through the external gate is equivalent to the amount taken out by “limited flow” internal gate keeping up with inlet manifold pressure requirements?

The wastegate stopper has been changed. I want to give people the full extend of boost control as possible in what ever size engines as possible while still retain the long term sustainability. The new one doesn't work the old way, Please refer to the current PU boost reading compare to the SS-2 reading.

This version of PU high flow plus the SS-2 prototype is an example of pushing few factors to its limit in exchange for the most out standing response, and power. First time you've ever seen 295rwkws with .63 turbine housing holding straight 18psi to red line with internal gate, or 250rwkws with 18psi < 2500RPM of a SS-2 right? Experience, Materials, workmanship, knowledge, data, and engineering define certain extension of limit. There are no full definition of limits, and nothing is physically impossible. So we'll keep cracking. Also we've done lots of researches and evaluations in parts and components that made up those 2x turbos that takes the edge. I will evaluate it for 100,000KMs with some data analyse. If every thing turns out in great order as expected then I will have no holding back and let our customers enjoy the benefit of the new concepts.

Well like I said its got a different wheel for greater flow instead of response. I'll be driving this car for a while before I would be comfortably building it for any one in case of any problems. If this works out well we will be able to do that to all OP6 turbine housings. For the time been we will still be carry with standard and .82 rear ended PU high flows.

Hoo means I've must made more torque and more power then you have. It have lost traction, you can confirm that with Sam. This is sleeve bearing. Wheel sizes I probably want to keep in secret, its not a standard sized wheel. I might integrate the Ceramic BB cartridges into those down the track, hopefully it can pickup better response. The turbine housing was close to get maxed. Sam said it was getting hot. I've changed the wastegate controller's design. Its got lot better adjustability now.

Sorry I won't be able to profile it to exact unless I have the original CHRA. But I haven't seen any one else with this type of lag issue running .82 turbines. The only way I can reduce that is by install a small housing. You can send it in when you are ready.

He's fully booked till 2 weeks later. I perfer to get it done sooner in my area. But I will go to see him sooner, haven't been to his shop for a while, and I've made lots of new things during this period.

I'm trying to find a hub dyno locally for a some more accurate data. Please let me know any one got one of those dynos in the North suburbs Also I don't think it can be any more responsive. It does feel abit lazy on the road. But for the power range its engineered for its not too bad.

Also updating with the PU .63 high flowed result. This is running an internal wastegate with updated gate controller. Hold 18psi all the way to red line. Full boost @ 4100RPM, made 294.8 RWKWs with wheel spin hitting rev limiter at 7200RPM. The RPM is Derived from Roller speed. The wheel spin makes it looks short, and had some affect on the upper power curve. I'm trying to organize another run with a hub dyno, which should give me abit more accurate data up top.

Haven't seen that before. I have no idea why you are getting the lag. The only thing I can do for you is by swapping with a smaller .63 turbine housing, and We've got the wastegating mechanism to hold steady boost to redline now.

It wheel span off the rollers. Its not a hub dyno. the RPM is Derived from roller speed.

That was all the way to rev limiter. Drop off was mainly from lose of traction. Sam did not back off early. You can double check with Sam if you want. The Main point is that we've managed to controll and hold boost all the way to 18psi using an internal gate setup on a .63 turbine housing. and This turbo has made the most power out of all the R33/34 high flows there are with 98 RON Fuel.