hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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They are very similar to a RS on a .64 rear. reminds me when I first trailed the SS1PU with a .64 rear housing which made 23psi by 2800RPMs and maxed 266rwkws. By lowering the engine capacity I think it has a pretty good chance of making the power with crazy response. -
After all those years of testing and evaluations We've developed a very solid bearing setup. I can high flow them with G1 or G2s CHRA which works well, or we can use the new SS1PU's CHRA and see what they can do in those housings.
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Every thing must be fully tested, and evaluated. Half of my new/old designs don't work when comes to testing, however they should work on paper. Even dyno proven they needs to be trailed through various of hash driving, then gets pulled apart making sure nothing abnormal happens to its components before I can sale it and quote on a "rwkws" it makes. Also only knowing this turbo works is not enough, We also trail what a specific turbo behaves if its not installed correctly or did not have correct mods. Those information can guide customers if an issue occurs. For us building and selling turbos is not "only" building and selling turbos. Regarding to turbine wheels I can get them made out of titanium, which weights 30% less. But it comes with a very high manufacturing cost, and I don't know if I can sell them at a high price thou.
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The TR43 was pretty old and no long been made for a long time. For the wheels to contact housings it needs about 20 thous of play means bearing's worn, generally oil related. I still got a box of the old stuff which I can give you for free, does cost much to rebuild either (like $100). Actually it made this sound on down spool, remove intake pipe and check shaft play first. If doesn't have any play then it might not be not an turbo issue. You can't put GTR turbos on GTST. Totally different pattern.
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Turbo is dead. Thats from wheels hitting its housing. is this turbo running the oil feeding line supplied with it? or was it 2nd hand from some one else. We haven't built another TR43 since 2008. Best bring it in for a quick check up give me a ring on 0413457185 before drop by.
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Turbo oil thread is M10x1.25, water is stock size which is M18x1.5, engine end fitting is M12x1.25 About turbine wheels. they are normally friction welded to the shaft so turbine wheel and shaft are 2 pieces. The wheels are wax casted, if the shape is not uniform then it would not balance. Materials they are generally steel or inconel (tinny percent) mixed steel. Most of performance wheels are inconel mixed or rarely titanium. Wheels just spins, pushing or pushed by air, it won't explode unless they have large air bubbles or some thing like that. They normally explodes when bearing collapse causing wheels striking into its housings at high shaft speed. Most of that energy will be absorbed by the shaft so it bents or twist.
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lol I'm very interested in reasons of their bent turbine shaft. I also had that that problem when we first making roller bearing CHRAs years ago, well thats due to the tolerances left between the sleeves for heat expansion. After we calculated and left the shaft sleeves with correct tolerances the shaft stopped bending and every thing worked as usual. I've followed abit of their thread and looks like some thing technically not 100% at this stage.
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You got the Neo head, just source a series 2 Na RB30 block, there are plenty around. All your current ecu injectors and ever thing else still works as normal, need a return. The driving ability from the Rb30det to a RB25det is totally different, heaps more torque, plenty of power band and lot faster response.
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Wither its got VCT or not it spools up a 500HP turbo like a R33 on stock turbo. definitly worth going for, I can modify your current turbo to a G3 at no cost, which is good for about 300rwkws bolton. You will need to get a NA cam with came gear, and an different timing belt. Check Rb30det section
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With most of forward facing plenums gains better response as it shortens the cooler piping by almost half a meter, which is lots of volume, but I've also seen few others went back wards. I suggest to install the turbo and get it tuned with the current setup first. Then install the plenum and go back for a quick dyno run. Haha can some one please get me a magic calculator, saves me heaps of time and $$$ tuning. Design and making Billet wheels has opened a new door to turbo engineering, the blade size, shape, height, and hub shape makes big differences in power curve, bit like changing turbine housings. How ever sacrifices are made in areas of gains, it’s a game of finding the perfect balance. Thats keep on testing and evaluating.
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Its best to keep afm in cooler piping and run a 4inch intake with a large pod filter as I've found the 3inch makes about 15kws less. I've added a installation tip for people whom's running internal gated ATR43 units in page 1: Remove the actuator and bracket pre turbo installation, which would leave plenty of room for tools. Then install the actautor assembly back on once the turbo installation is complete. Make sure the actuator is pre-loaded. Also there seems to be abit of debate over the 11 long bladed vs 12 long n short bladed wheels. I've drawn and cut a 11 bladed version of the SS1PU's comp wheel using the same wheel hub. The original SS1PU felt more responsive on road, I'm pretty keen to see what the dyno says next monday.
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cams doesn't make alot of differences unless you are chasing very big No. s. but head recondition and valve springs are must if you are looking to run high boost. Check my thread for what my factory valve springs did over 22psi of boost over time.
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The cheap coolers on ebay works fine. How ever the length of the cooling piping makes a big difference in turbo response. So I would get a generic cooler then make some custom piping to suit it.
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I had one badly damaged bore, which had to be sleeved. other wise its only $40 per bore, the crank wasn't bad so they just linished it and assembled every thing together. If your engine's not bad with you doing most of the work the machine part is pretty cheap. Ring up reflex and get a quote. tell them you are from blah blah workshop and they give you a trade discount. How ever bring them the engine block and pistons that are ready to be machined and fitted, they charge alot for stripping the engine.
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Its a testing rig so it gets new prototypes installed every week. Its currenly running a Ceramic roller bearing G3 which drives pretty nice, the 345rwkws that was a KAI high flow out of a OP6 rear, which made the power but not so good in driving ability. Cost in building this motor I've spent just under $4G including labor. If your block isn't bad as mine (I had sleeve in 1 cyc) and not looking to beef up its valve springs then you can get every thing done for about $3G.
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They all in Melbourne, the area code is 03. The most power I've got of this setup was 345rwkws on 28psi with 98 purple. That was also running stock manifolds and etc. Its used as a test car so it gets flogged on 20psi+ all the time and holding together fine.
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Depending on the HP you are targetting. For reference on my test rig rebuild: Forged Pistons from: CJ motors 0421622288 Bearings, head bolds and gasket set from: MD spares: 95530388 You will need strong valve springs for high boost, I'm using supertech valve spring kit from ebay US. I Used Reflex engineering for engine rebore, short block building and head reconditioning: 93054807 AMR work shop for assembly: 93866196 That would give a fairly solid "stock engine" but nothing crazy.
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It will bolton to your current setup
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Once again depending on how its been high flowed. I can high flow a OP6 with same / better performance as your TD06 with consistent out put, nothing gets hot. High flowed turbocharger saves major modifications to existing exhaust side setup. The real value in its power range is generally cheaper then a complete aftermarket setup, it also set you free from defects and cop problems. How ever performance factor running tune length exhaust manifolds, intake, external gate and other enhancements supporting an aftermarket turbo will obviously gain better results then what came out of the factory. Its the result of a complete package rather then the turbocharger alone. Having said that, building a brand new turbocharger suiting its purpose efficiently is easier then modifying a turbo that was built for some thing else. The decision should be made based on the useage of the car as, performance goal and over all cost.
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To be exact 20kws and 45Mn increase based on the same chra. Has the potentical of making 320rwkws+ depending on how its been high flowed.
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The SS1PUs needs abit more work on installation, check page 1, there is a DIY thread with video teaching installation of water lines at Installation walk through Water lines needs to be lose fitted before fixing turbo on to the exhaust manifold. The bracket holding it on the engine head must be removed. Other wise there it is lot harder to do. I'm planing to take the ceramic roller for the next few comming track days and see how every thing holds up. Its need to provide better result then standard bush setup before I would want to sale them. Its going to be a while.
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I've been told having the AFM sitting on front of the turbo would restrict around 5kws, Mine Made 318rwkws on 3inch pipe to air box with no lid, and 330rwkws on 4inch with pod. Minior differences, bigger's better. I'm getting some 4inches intake pipes suitting stock bov and breather made with bend and nipples for the stock BOV and breather. Will post photos and prices when ready. Crans: send it in when ever you are ready. I will thrash the ceramic roller and do some dyno runs making sure I can't blow it up before giving it out for testing.
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Been busy working on one very one's jobs. This is a little update on a prototype which converts a standard bush bearing ATR43G3 FNT turbo on ceramic rollers. Took it for a thrash on 20psi its noticeably more responsive in lower gears and made power delivery even more linear. How ever I don't think thats enough to shown a difference on the dyno. Will post some results once tuned. This is also a simpler, cheaper and more efficient roller setup then the earlier alfa prototypes without direct force feeding in bearing oil supply. There for it should be less sensitive to common oil contamination issues. If every thing works out well we will be building ceramic roller units without much additional cost.
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In a roller bearing system the balls are the centripetal support as well as the rolling object. They are also made in a harder material then the bearing cages which they run on. Then is worn the rotor assembly looses its support and vibrates. That causes this noise, as well as having wheels rubbing against housings. The clearance in a ball bearing rotor should be no more then 10thous. If it feels like there is a “bit of play" then it is dead. Depending on how bad it is, it can still make power, how ever it will be substantially less then when it is good, it will also becomes noticeably laggier. Obviously check for gaskets and what ever leaks and hopefully that is the cause.
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Did you end up getting the stronger actuator I sent out few days ago?
