hypergear

I have one brand new oil cooled TR44 on Special (for some one who paid a deposit and didn't turn up from 2 month ago). It comes in .63 Vband rear housing internally gated and .50 Comp housing for $800. I can make it to run on ATR43's bolton .63 turbine housing and .60 comp housing for $1000. Or in . 82 externally gated housing for $900. Braided oil line is for $80 additional. This turbo is good for 280rwkws mark response depends on the Turbin housing size. have made 315rwkws with 50 short Nos and have run 10.75 in a 1JZ corwna. Click to view footage Pickup in Melbourne Brunswick, or send to any where for $25. PM or call 0413457185

The Garrett T04Es are still good for about 500HP and last pretty well. Before Garrett Released the BB turbos every one was running on one of those as upgrade, I believe their water/oil cooled 360 degrees thrust setup is probably more reliable then the current BB setup.

With the dump pipe. You need to get a O ring then weld it onto a 2.75mm 90 degrees steel pipe. then extend it to your front pipe. The rear end of the turbo is connected by a V-band clamp. You find all those bits at your local truck exhaust places.

Ok. few advise before you put that on the car. Most of the CN charger's turbine wheel's material does not have that high heat standard, and will fall apart once up against heat above 800 degrees. The shaft tolerance, ring grove, and bearing housing inlet are usually not 100% flash. which can lead to a very short life time. The internal wastegate on it will not work. You need to machine the wastegate port to at least 29mm working with a 34mm wastegate flap for the RB25det. Once rotate the housings (just unbolt and rotate) you will find the wastegate actuator rod is off by far. You will need a new wastegate bracket to keep it in the right position. With the round inlets and outlets you can just sleeve a 90 degrees 2inch pipe and a 3inch straight pipe, It will fit your stock cooler take pipe. Preferred to have proper pipes made to suit.

Nope. Depends on how your engineer the internal wastegate port and size of the wastegating flap. We've done quite a few. No problem with boost creeping at all.

ceramic turbines. blow them up first, then high flow them with steel wheels. Or upgrade to GT2860R-5/6/7

for $1800 we can make you a Garrett GT3071R BB CHRA in a .63 Bolton housing in .60 A/R Comp with 14psi internal gated actuator. that would be pretty responsive for your power goal with good torque.

To test the actuator simply blow air into it. If air do come out of it means the actuator diaframe is broken. Make sure the actuator do line up with the wastegate flap and the boost source that goes into it is not leaking. If above doesn’t work then you need to install a bigger wastegate flap and machine out the wastegate whole on the turbine housing.

If they are 2nd hand ceramic turbos I suggest you to not do it. All the once that came in for high flow breaks its turbine wheel while we trying to hammer the turbine housing off with a cooper mallet. Most of them a rusted together, specially the once with oil leaks. Have to heat up the housing before hit them apart. Brand new once would come apart once they are unbolted.

mmm the GTRs turbine would work with a .49 rear fine. Even now Garrett still use them as upgrades on the 300zx and GTR OEM turbos. Putting a big comp wheel in to small housing will cause surge. But this wheel is not big enough to do that. It will still make reasonable power, in any twin turbo setup you can't have 100% efficiency out of a single turbo out of any housings you put in. any way, we can supply Garrett GTRS-5 for OEM GTR upgrade at $1250 each. So might want to pay abit more and get that with brand new housings and actuators instead. Depends on your buggdet

ATR43 G1 is made to produce around 250rwkws. You should be able to get around that with stock cams around 20psi of boost on a RB20.

For the RB20det It depends on turbo's profile. if you run G1 profile it would be very responsive on road. Should see boost around 3000RPM and get 20psi by 4600RPM.

This is for some one that is interested in 300zx. This is a initial run with my 300zx test car running twin ATR25s at 18psi. Stock injectors has been maxed.

Standard comp housing can be used on G1 and G2 profiles only. with this G3 profile I'm getting 13psi at 4000RPM. You probably get 20psi at 4500RPM. I guess for 300rwkws its not too bad. any one's got some cheap 550cc injectors for sale? PM me. Pickup only

Just had a ATR43G3 installed on a test car. Some installation Notes: The turbo fits directly onto standard manifold, and dump pipe in exact position. How ever due to the larger diameter of .63 turbine housing, one factory water line that comes behind the engine (towards engine side) touches the turbine housing by very slight. To fix this just loosen up the hollow behind engine and alter the steel line few mms lower. On intake side. The ATR43's compressor out let is round in 2 inches and intake is round in 3 inches. There are plenty ways to adapt them onto pod filter and cooler pipings. I've just sleeve 2x rubber pipes to get the car back on road. Or you can send in your stock comp housing which requires no intake side fabrications when putting it back. Photos: Thing looks pretty standard. haven't had other mods put in yet. car felt like taken off on a jet. Will get fuel related mods and ecu. Hopefully seeing 300rwkws with stock cams and 98 fuel.

Well there are 2x sorts of noises. one is a howling sound. This is common to BB turbos, and it gets very loud from time to time, then you have fins rubbing housings making a grinding noise, turbo stops function. You also get a small grinding alike bearing noise when power off your engine. If this is the case then the turbo needs to be taken out and looked at. The other sound is a high pitch whistling sound. This is generally due to air pass though a small gap. could be a leaking pipe, or any gaskets on the intake system.

If it turns on to grinding noise it means bearing failure that causing wheels to eat in to housing. Normally due to oil contamination, insufficient oil pressure or flow. Normally BB turbos give that sort of noise before failing. Check for vacuum leaks.

Ok. in this case the turbo would also be boosting as normal. Then just need to check to see where is leak air.

ok. did you use the braided oil feeding line supplied? and is the turbo boosting and running as normal? If so then you need to check for air leaks.

Opss I thought this is a SR20det T28. they got steel wheels from factory. If that is a Skyline turbo we can only high flow. which cost $880.

Well. as soon as steel wheels are in. noticeably more lag. Drove N1 and Normal R32, defiantly be able to tell which one's what. Bigger turbine housing will help making more power with more lag, its only a 1.3L 3cyc engine per turbo. I think machine -5 to stock housing would be a less laggy option for up to 350rwkws (I've seen 345rwkws).

Yes we can overhaul for $400 with Garrett 360 degrees thrust bearing kit. overhauled turbo will be able to handel lot more boost. Or we can high flow your current profile to a sleeve bearing GT2860 or 71 spec for $800.

Video footage from Jambo race way last weekend. Chris's TR44 Powered 1JZ crowna. 315rwkws, Ran a PB of [email protected] with 1.67 60ft. Click to view footage Also like to add This is a 3 years old TR44. The current version will be able to pump out 330rwkws without Nos.

This normally happens when the belt is wet.

The Supra vs Civic video is interesting. Once again the Supra is a lot heavier car. Close friend owns a Civic Type R I dragged him with my 344rwkws CA18det Sil180 lol. If both cars are moving I drove pass him like he's stationary. From a red light I wasn't be able to over take till 3rd gear.