hypergear

Most people who brought in their dead skyline turbos for high flow said similar thing before their turbo totally died. Its good idea to check for shaft play and see it spins freely.

Well depends on how cheap you can get the turbo for. You can bring us a 2nd hand T25G/T28 .64 turboine housing with your turbo and we can machine it to suit your new turbine wheel for about $150.

For about 280rwkws with fast response you can try a 52T 76mm comp on a GT30 Turbine in BB assemble using .63 rear housing. Or .58 rear housing which would definitely increase response shaving off about 20KWs top end power. You can also replace the standard .50 To4E compressor with a .60 T04B comp. Which can also increase turbo response.

Its funny how cops can find and EPA you on a high flowed turbo, which they are just identical looks to any other stock turbos. I also had a customer who got defected in Vic over a high flowed GTiR turbo that we worked on. I really believe they have X-ray eyes or some thing to looking through metal housings for bigger wheels. Nistune is good and cheap. You can get away from most of cops with it. But I don't think Matt have made one for R33 yet. Most people I know is running off a R32 ECU with modified loom.

the stock thread is definitly M12x1.25. Not M12x1.5. Don't get the wrong one. We currently supply quite a few on weekly bases to high flow customers. The speedflow fitting is better to use compare to benjo bolts, The 50mm line runs between the turbo and chassis.

We can supply you one for $80 is required. Its a half meter long dash 3 SS braided hose with one straight hose tail and a 90 degrees hose tail. 2x speed flow fittings. One in M12x1.25 to engine and the other one depends on the thread that is in the turbo. Factory turbo thread is also in M12x1.25 Factory oil line is held by a hollow screw, Once you remove the screw it comes off. If the high flowed turbo is using sleeve bearings, You will need to get aftermarket oil line or drill out your stock oil line's restriction valve.

I recommend HKS silent power. I've made 316rwkws with it, and its quite enough to not get picked on road.

Well, at moment no one else has steel BB or the rights to make steel bearing BB turbos apart from Garrett them selves. So there is nothing to really compare to. In sleeve bearings turbos, Materials in Garrett Bearings and seals are lot harder (which we use). for the rest bits Depends on who you compare it with. If its compare against Mallet or Turbo International (we also use) there isn't much of difference. If Compare to some cheap ChinaChargers you will notice lot of difference in shaft tolerance, Bearing tolerance, weight tolerance and Material components.

If you can post up a photo of its comp and turbine wheel then we should know if its been high flowed or not. But if you compare it to you stock turbo you would definitly notice the difference in wheels sizes.

Scandyflick Some photos of your hiflowed turbo CHRA (GT2860RS Sleeve bearing spec). Should have housings finished tomorrow.

There there's oil feeding pin under the oil feeding port. The end pin size on it is 20 thou which delivers oil to your bearings. Normally that gets blocked with all sort of dirt. Your turbo starvs from oil and cook the bearings.

Normally the grinding noise came from the bearing cartridge, Its a common issue with BB turbo caused from engine oil contaminations. If your wheels and shaft are in good condition its just matter of replacing the bearing cartridge and seals. The small chips on the comp wheel can be machined off. cost wise is about $800AUD for every thing. You are likely needing a inline oil filter before fitting the turbo back on.

It looks like failed bearings, specially if you have get a lot of left to right play. For a foreign object damage you are more then likely to have chips on the upper fin rather then the side. If this is a sleeve bearing setup, you might want to check your oil supply.

Well the starter posted a sleeve bearing diagram. I assume he knows what he's on about, I've Seen Garrett GT35 in sleeve bearings, and built few our selves. added: 18/07/09: Ash you tight ass. Just paid subscription again. lol Any way, For a sleeve bearing overhaul with parts listed in diagram is $670 including a Garrett Comp wheel. assume your housings and turbine wheel is ok. The turbine shaft is going to be expansive if its no good. You can send your complete turbo for a amylase report to find out what’s required for overhaul. Might not be as bad as you thought.

Oopps Didn't notice its a GTR 34. if your stock Gauge displaying 98 degrees and on a slow rising mode then might want to check for water leaks or thermo related bits

depends on where you fit the water temp sensor and atmosphere temperature But seems pretty normal to me.

Assume your turbo is in sleeve bearing with turbine shaft and bearing housing in good condition.

Normally using a OP6 rear end with a stock R33 front housing with a GT2871R or similar spec CHRA would be good enough to get up to 260rwkws. Also you need to increase the factory air gap inside the comp cover. There are also other options using .71 A/R AVO housings and GT3076CHRA (the 7pair fin comp wheeled CHRA you saw). which technically should make over 300rwkws on a RB25det. As the 7 pair fin is made to throw more air but the additional fin also increase weight and becomes a slight flow restriction up top. wither its 6 or 7 pair you are unlikely to notice much difference.

Happened to a R32 I imported years back. Its mainly due to your fuel pump filter blocked. You probably also heard a loud buzzing noise from the pump too. Had to professionally clean the whole fuel system and the problem went away. Or unless you are running too much boost.

Hoo.. no in this case it wont work. Turbo works on a gravity drain system so the drain port must be lower then the turbos and above above oil level means you can't go too low into the sump too.

Well when you are accelerating the manifold pressure forces the shaft to sit against its seals to prevent any leaks plus with great exhaust flow you probably wont notice it. When it slows down the manifold pressure drops, by that point bit of oil slips. So you see smoke. If this only happens to the turbine end then it means turbo need overhaul, or If you have breather or crankcase problems turbo would be leaking though both ends.

You can also try and T piece it together and see how it coops. in theroy it should be ok as your fitting port is only 3mm. If you see a turbo leak oil from both ends then you will need to drill and add additional return port.

You can buy a T Piece and run it into two turbos. Make sure it does not have any flow restrictions on the fittings.

8psi is too much drop. When I was testing mine I only had 2psi drop at 26psi. and its just a cheap China cooler. Might want to check for leaks. Hoo and HKS2530's turbine housing is too small, Its not going to be able to hold high boost. Thats why its only rated at 380HP.

Ash, Compressor map of a turbo would not change in identical housings. You can only pass out of what the compressor can suck in. So you can not have "Greater flow" unless you have a bigger compressor wheel, which does not suit in this case. The current flow limitation is from factory turbine housing. So replace it to increase flow. simple.