hypergear
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Everything posted by hypergear
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Remove one C clip on the rear holding the wastegate lever, pipe off the actuator extender, remove two bolts holding the actuator onto its bracket. turn it into the direction you want it to be, bolt the actuator back into its bracket and re-attache the actuator extender. -
Rb25det Best Performance
hypergear replied to cefiro_ghost's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
The ATR43G3SAT is the one engineered for RB25det engine. It can be built internally gated or externally gated with bush or ceramic ball bearings. You can find it in our site under ATR43 internal and externally gated section. My personal favorite is the ceramic ball bearing version. -
The boost tapper behavior does not fully depend on the weight of actuator, but actually depends on the wheel combination used as well as how free flow your engine system is. Most of Garrett GT style turbine inside an OP6 rear turn to have a boost tapper behavior working with an OP6 rear housing, which is why majority of people ended up getting a .82 rear for boost stability and more power. Any of those actuators mentioned your self will do in terms of help in minimize boost tapper in certain extend. I would prefer the Turbosmart a like once which different weight springs can be installed.
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Following up the video footage of above Ceramic Ball bearing ATR43SAT powered 1JZ wagon at Haunted Hill hill climb event: ATR43SS2 powered R33 Winton Vicdrift footage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ltro9pZdiwo
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BoostR is happy to help in doing lot of developments and he is very experienced in those vehicles. For a RB25det I won't give a dame wither its Bush or Ball bearings. Due to a lake of information and feedback from the the initial development partner, There has been a misunderstanding of VQ25det's engine behavior. After personally owning two M35s and doing evaluations, I will only be fitting Garrett CBB Cores in a M35s, first the throttle response of a bush core is no where near to it, 2ndly CBB cores are capable of acting against much higher thrust load, thirdly they are happy to run hold any where from 10psi to 20psi using a boost controller with no boost creep, and this is what you want using stock ECU and factory injectors. You are welcome to ring for a quick chat and weigh up all your options.
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I'm currently using an Adaptronic E420D in mine. Works fine at this stage. I can give you a base map for this turbo and a wire diagram if u need this ecu Currently running an stock injectors on 17psi making around the 230awkws region. Factory turbo response. Choice the Stagea In terms Power to Coin ratio, I personally find the C34 with a Rb25det Neo is way better.
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Drifting video from Jason.F's R31 Wagon. This particular project has a very unique CBB turbo build on getting most reponsive 320rwkws out of none VVTI 1JZ. It has been a challenge dealing with back pressure and took a few try to get working.
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The seals in turbos steel C clips. They are not an liquid tight seals. Unless there are measurable back n forward play, those seals won't wear, and if its also not leaking when the engine is running its most likely to be alright. Most of turbo drain system relays on gravity. When crank case pressure is applied, oil will be forced out of both compressor and turbine seals. If there is an measurable back n forward play it would require an rebuild. Assume all it needs is an bearing kit, I will charge you $100 to carry out. The current SS2 is very different to what it was, it makes a lot more power without losing response, specially for externally gated application. But that will require a new build and I'm happy to look after you on the pricing.
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No differences works exactly the same. Need to make sure factory turbine housing is not cracked.
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Yes. Rebuild Using using a bush bearing core will cost u 700 or a Garrett bb core for 1050. Will require braided oil line and mico filter removed for either cores
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The the heavier stagea, the op6 is recommend over the 21U.
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Well, the exhaust Tee is bleeding with not as compressed air as what it is inside the exhaust manifold. So it needs to be alot bigger. There are many ways of doing it, the most popular I've seen was that window switch motor controlled valve on ebay. That doesn't work very well as the motor gets overheated by exhaust gas. Alternatively you can use an actuator to control the valve, which is very reliable, or just some good high tensile springs. Its a simple device, but that definitely shown an improvement. For this engine you can run one of our ATR45 in a 1.06 rear housing externally gated. On E85 fuel that will be plenty for 400rwkws Also vid sent in from Jason using one of our prototype ATR43 in his 1JZ, the goal was a responsive 300rwkws on Pump fuel with out VVTI. It is not an easy task as I originally predicted, project is still on going. Vid shown 320rwkws on E85 fuel @ 22psi
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Our high flowed T517Z. 507awkws @ 22psi E85 fuel internally gated, on a built RB26dett by Forged Performance in SA. Looking at stiffer actuators and run up to 30psi. Hopefully be seeing 600awkws.
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The best I've got was 287rwkws P98 fuel on 21psi. R34 GTT Neo engine. with Exhaust Tee and PWR cooler:
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350rwkws on E85 fuel you can use our new ATR43G3SAT model. You will need a very big exhaust and a very free flow cooler to run ATR45SAT, that can get close to 350rwkws on P98 fuel.
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All my externally gated results are obtained through 50mm external gates.
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Should have done a run with exhaust dropped before the cat. This is important, the exhaust side restriction on this turbo can affect your boost level and afr by lot. Usually once a free flow system is installed, it will be creeping boost using your current EBC settings and make your AFR run lean. In your case I will be getting my self a wide band gauge and touch up the fuel on WTO after the dump pipe is checked with new exhaust installed. Also plug your boost gauge before the cooler and compare pressure differences to the graph.
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Check and dress the dump pipe flange first, then take it back for a dyno run with exhaust dropped before the cat and see if any differences are made. Also ask the tuner to tap his map sensor before the cooler and monitor the boost pressure before the intercooler.
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Whats the boost curve like?
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Can be done. The BB version cost $400 more then standard G3 high flow.
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I've had similar issue on my R33 years back and it went away after I've dressed up the dump flange. Photo shown a commonly used ebay item. Note where the overlay and reduction is, that is where the exhaust wheel sits. The Tomei dump pipes are much better engineered in that sense.
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Yes it is more responsive. and can be built in to an OP6 rear housing.
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Previous data shown boost curve is almost identical. but this one made more power. Using same car with identical mods: 21U G3 high flow: ATR43G3SAT CBB
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Will be around the 300rwkws region with supporting mods. Its going on the dyno this week. will post results after tuning.
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I will withdrawn the comment for now. It could be other causes, The bov is blowing air out, not sucking in. You can run water to it if you want to.
