rev210

what was the question?

Look another VS thread ! Well I don't know..... if you go on a skyline forum and ask if a skyline is better than a supra........oooh my brain hurts.. must drink more gatoraid. I suggest that only a ninja can reveal the true answer and if you like this thread the odds are you may be ...... a ninja! You must have real ultimate power ! So go here : www.realultimatepower.net

If you want a very cheap option you can do what I am doing one of these.. DIY 253rwkw You retain your 2nd hand but, good nik ball bearing core and mod the compressor side along with the turbine housing. The machining and parts costs are low, the turbo makes oodles of power with little boost required 10 -14psi only. The ceramic turbine wheel isn't in danger thanks to extra clearence and low boost. The power isn't shabby either.....for less than $400.

I just put the turbine side on the gas BBQ grill and let it heat up. and very genty tap off with a hammer, comes off very easy. For those who don't have an oxy torch or have run out of gas

Perhaps I'm paranoid This method I got from mineral oil days so maybe I could extend the kms by oil testing to see how far I can go. But, I'd rather not ever see a test where there is contamination because I decided to save a few $ on oil changes. If there is crap in your oil the damage is done. The oil's base stocks might be ok?, its abillity to keep the combustion polutants off the bearing surfaces and the other internal engine components is what I get concerned about.Dedicated Race oil doesn't have any suspension chemicals for catching these polutants because they bugger the oil off right after a meet and it gives slightly less friction for a little more power and protection. These additives do a mickey mouse job on a road car for normal road duties. Run up race car power numbers and stress and you have lots of combustion chemicals floating around it's pretty quickly rendered a useless advantage on a race motor in a race environment. The wear caused usuallly winds up in the fliter/ stuck to engine parts so your oil looks clean? For maintenence I usually flush the block too. and its the stuff coming out that you want to add to a run through an oil analysis as well. Those that do oil analysis do you normally flush the block and take that stuff in too? I also cut my fliter open to get an idea of wear and the oils level of protection. I like to see less in the filter all things being equal with the filter doing it's job. I could be living in the dark ages so I think this thread could have some interesting info.

The HKS ones are the easiest to adjust in my opinion having only three bolts to loosen/ do up. They all do the job.

Thanks Steve. Grants a very good operator.

now you are right, and on the way to more power

You are wrong.

depends on the setup but, the lowest I have seen was 30rwhp difference. It depends but, given a GTR likes cam gears with stock cams that should tell you something.

Anyone got some tips on a good place to get some basic machine work done on a turbo. Have a little project going not needing any kind of core rebuild at all just some machine work on a lathe compressor and turbine, fit a comp wheel and balance. Bit of an experiment.

you change the cam pulleys in order to be able to tune the cam timing for what you want power curve wise. the Tomei cams installed at 0 make less power than what you can potentially make by adjusting them ,alot less.

Ok I am now going to use caps lock to get a very important point across to people who have posted about service intervals; CHANGE YOUR OIL ACCORDING TO USE NOT KMS ! 5,000kms is not a holy service change interval, it is only a guide and a minimum one at that. If you actually read a service manual for a car/truck they state this minimum BUT they almost always have a part that says " change with greater frequency according to driving in conditions of high heat, load, dust, altitude etc.... Most of the guys and gals on this forum enjoy a little right foot work and most have increased power over stock. So 5,000kms is NOT a good oil change interval for even those people IF you want the engine to suffer the least amount of wear. I drove my old GTR (with lots more power than stock) less aggressively than most but, it had oil changes at 3k or less sometimes even less than 1k. I hear people going " but, that would cost a fortune! " . Yes it does, the dream is dead. If you go to the dyno/track or drag strip ----- you are best off to drop your oil right afterwards AND basically all the other lubricants in your diff/s and transmission etc. Your oil is very well contaminated. So while you are debating spending more money on a better oil for the oil change, think about spending more money on more frequent changes.

PM me if you want tips on setting a kit up ,there are a few people you can chat to on this forum who know how to do it right. You will find you get more confusion from threads like this with people who have never set one up giving you all kinds of information ,most of it rubbish (no offence to the people who have contributed to this thread by the way, it's just a count down to the Fast and the furious part of this forum to start posting). Have a go and have fun

Easy enough. A 100hp-ish shot is probably ok. That will be almost 100rwhp in practice. You don't need headwork. Nice to have. You don't need bigger injectors. Nice to have. You do need to cater for fuel requirements fuel pump wise. A single fogger plumbed in where the front of the plenum is would be good enough. If space is too tight then make up a 3 inch metal tube section to mount the fogger just before the plenum to replace a section of that rubber pipe. You may need to make a whole new pipe with new silicone joiners. Not really that hard. Direct port at 150/200hp is a jet clog fest waiting to happen. 250+ and look at one of those I reckon. You need enough fuel. For the total power after the nitrous is added. If you have 400hp now and add 100hp then the fuel system needs to supply volume to cater for 500hp. You need to regulate/measure the nitrous systems fuel requirements (statically) A rising rate fuel pressure system makes it hard to get the flow rates correct on the fuel jet. You ought to measure them anyway with a bucket/container and a stop watch. Especially if you use NOS brand dodge'o cheap ass 'flare jets' they actually sell 'saphire' range jets that are more accurate but, since flow rates of fuel delivery differ from car to car measure it. Also the so-called 50/75/100 jet 'kits' are not ever to be trusted as a bolt in match for your car for the above reason. A static pressure reg is the go here. Once you have a fuel per minute flow rate you can pick a couple of jets either side for the gas to tune. Easy but, the number of people who don't bother I find pretty amazing. They give nitrous the bad name it doesn't deserve. Plugs 1 Heat range colder is all you would need for 100 -150rwhp extra. Use a plug with a nice thick grounding strap, NGK vanilla copper plugs are ok. Avoid any irridium / thin electrode plugs these self cleaning style plugs won't last. Timing take some out 2-3 deg assuming a safe tune is already in place. Take more out around your peak torque rpm. Limit the power You can add as much power as you want but, if 400rwhp is the limit on a standard block then stick to that as an overall power max. Alternatively build the block up and go for it with a big direct port system. lots of other little and big things for a nice setup. You have some experience with other cars and nitrous so the same theory applies to this application more or less.

Starting threads like this can only be resolved by understanding the ninja. slighten is clearly one who has REAL ULTIMATE POWER www.realultimatepower.com

I reckon if you got 14k you would be doing well in Perth at present. It may not sell for a long time at that price however. I hope you don't have to sell anyway (stay with the stagea)

I fitted the just jap JJR split dump a few weeks ago. Bolts up no dramas.

have a chat to these guys www.are.com.au

have a chat to these guys IF you are serious about knowing the in's and outs of intercoolers. www.are.com.au

late series 2 have the cas but, don't have the solid camshafts of the R34 neo motor (unless some came with a neo motor).

Cams work quite well even on the stock turbo, even if you are limited in terms of it's peak power capabilltiy. How well? Enough to say that a properly 'performance cam' equipped RB25 will offer much greater performance than a non cam upgraded motor of the same ancillaries. Factory cams are for factory power (low power) and ecconomy goals and give the motor a breathing pattern suited to those goals. My old R33 gtst ran a standard intake cam and a HKS exhaust cam and made decent gains across the power band with the factory turbo. It was substancially faster than 'without' cams, with the same peak power made at lower rpm, with less boost. The old R32 GTR ran 260 tomei cams and was substancially better off as well, with factory turbos. The point of cams is to open up the breathing potential of the engine. If you do this right on even a stock turbo'd engine you will realise very decent gains in power across the power curve. In the case of keeping the factory turbo if you are happy with 200rwkw-ish peak power, with cams you; * increase the average power * lengthen & fatten up the power curve * reduce the amount of boost and rpm needed to reach the peak power (less wear and lower intake temps). * Don't need a fuel system upgrade, injectors / bigger fuel pump(if you keep the peak power number around where it was) * Your car will be much faster If you decide to upgrade the turbo later on all these things apply with greater magnitude. The down side of cams is the cost and the need to have a brain to set them up right (additional tune costs). With a turbo upgrade it's bolt on more or less + tune, where cams are more labour and brain intensive.

what's the setup on the engine and application?

so the R34GTT power FC and this mod does the trick for a series 1?

With the stock turbo; *There is no benifit for changing the exhaust manifold. *Changing cams can help improve midrange power (tomei 256deg 8.5mm) at lower boost. *Changine the exhaust cam gear on the R34 GTT is argued not to improve power.