rev210

The exhaust cam is the issue , the only difference is the CAS pickup. The series 1 & 2 cam specs are identical appart from this. Not meaning to be hard on you but, the internet shops are great if you know what you want, they aren't there to provide advice or guidance (you can't pick up a phone, even if you could there isn't an experienced mechanic on the other end). If you are purchasing a more technical upgrade component you ought to do your research and ask for the right part number. If thats beyond you then buy it locally and get the service you really need. As they say 'Buy cheap , buy twice'. You have some options; * sell both and buy the right set. * sell just the exhaust cam and buy another one. * sell your cas and buy a series 2 unit. Not so bad really.

series 2 mod only then?

the longer wastegate sepparation on the split dump design improves power, due to reduction in turbulence at the turbine exit. This is well proven on the GTR, with products like the Trust style setups. The gtst is going to benifit in exactly the same manner. If you look under the forced induction 'guide' sticky there is a back to back dyno of the improvement on a fairly stock gtst, as proof if you need it. The theory is sound enough however. I recently aquired a JJR split pipe for my stagea (Rb25det), it needed a die grinder to clean up the alignment of the flange. IT was cheap so some elements of it's finish are what you expect for the price. I usually heat wrap the pipe. Be sure to do it properly, with even overlap of the tape. DEI make a tape that has a line marked on it as a guide.

had the car less than a month (work car) and have done; * R34 SMIC $80 * metal intake pipe mod $0 * Stock Boost control earth $0 * JJR split stainless front & dump pipe $250 * trans cooler $109 to go; * shift kit * cat back exhaust * some sort of fuel and timing control * suspension bits. * air deflector * ross damper (it's 2kg lighter) * custom made alloy pulleys for water pump, alternator & power steering. * timing belt overhaul and a exhaust cam pulley (cams at same time?) * 16 inch thermo fan maybe later; * larger turbo and supporting bits for fuel (nothing too huge). * cams * RB30 conversion (have the engine parts lying around) OR I'll just move onto another GTR by then (be cheaper,go faster)

sub frame/diff cradle bushes = pineapples (look like pineapple slices). Improve traction, something rwd skylines need a little help with.

a) stock turbo = stay with the SMIC. Get the right size FMIC if and when you go for a full house turbo upgrade. It's cop bait and won't do anything to make the car quicker. b) Full exhaust for sure. Grab some pineapples for the rear subframe if you haven't got them = $99. Whiteline kit is KCA349.

air leak in the piping most likely, check it all over and tighten any loose clamps. Air is bypassing the air flow meter by the sounds of it.

If you are keeping the factory turbo for now then just hold on to the factory smic, they work very well. You will see no improvement overall in performance by upgrading it (with the factory turbo), especially if you go a large cheapo' unit. They are able to flow pretty well upto 220rwkw or so. Then again if you want to go through the excersice of upgrading it with a veiw to the future, then first decide on the airflow requirements you will have based on the turbo you will wind up with and get a properly sized/designed unit if you can afford it. Maybe give it a very light coat of black paint so it's not so 'hello officer'. I quite enjoyed blowing away the 'bling' R33/4's with my old one at the drags. Always gave me a laugh when I was asked to pop the bonnet and there was nothing there but, a factory looking engine bay. Sleeper is a good look for me. It's more fun without the attention. More so these days when every P plater has a riced up R33/34, good to avoid the association.

wasn't going an argument with you mate, just posting my 2c to clarify the statement about popped RB's I should say that what I meant was to exceede a certain power level will bring the engine to an early natural death regardless of it having a 'safe tune'. A tune may be 'safe' in the sense of AFR & timing but, if you throw down enough rpm/heat/power you break the weakest link in the equation and where you don't break it right away you wear it out very very fast. If it's already worn then you get even less time to enjoy the power. As the old phrase goes ; Cheap . Powerful . Reliable . Pick two.

have a read over topics here for a start; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556 You don't need to do much to get the fairly standard R34 to run low 13/high 12 and look basically stock (read no cop attention at all). They have a great little sidemount intercooler on them standard unlike the R33/32 GTST's, if you are planning just to stay with the stock turbo for now or even something a little larger.

this old thread is worth a read about the old used RB's stock strength or lack of it.

I've lost count of the number of discussions I've had in the last decade with people who contend any number of various makes of engine are 'factory tough' to what are race levels of power. It is the kind of talk you usually hear from the 'optimistic' young enthusiasts who are deluding themselves into believing performance car ownership is an affordable past time. They say things like ' ..sure having a 300rwkw car is normally expensive but, if you buy a (insert brand and motor type here) then you don't have to rebuild the motor blah blah blah .... the diffs and gearboxes are indestructable blah blah blah...my tyres will last forever and the fuel prices are only going to get cheaper now the George Bush has declared war on Australia..." ---Time to walk away slowly. 320rwkw spec bottom end for street / strip = at very least preped rods (prefferable forged new ones), arp rod bolts, decent bearings (ie: not used high km factory ones), forged pistons (must have) and so on. 320rwkw on an old R32 RB26 engine = time bomb. To think an Rb25 is any different isn't sensible and with 9 to 1 compression and weaker bits on top you find the stock Rb25's running this power go 'pop' eventually. At that power level you are talking a couple minutes of total time spent at 320rwkw. Go to the shop for milk, no problems. Give it a kick in the guts once on the way you can take a few seconds off the few minutes or so it has left (if you are lucky) Poped Rb25's are a common phenomina on this forum at power levels over 230rwkw, they aren't a bad motor and it's not the tuners fault. It's just the way they are driven, which is usually the owners personal satisfaction , to 'enjoy' 320rwkw. Tick tock.... rebuild.

oh and injector cleaner products aren't worth bothering with. Just save the money and change your filter. BP98 has cleaner products in it anyway.

The damage/dirtyness is already done to the injectors is my guess. If you have one injector running lean you can still have nice 12 AFR's, measured out the exhaust and have the mysterious ping you are talking about. The factory fuel pumps have a filter sock, some aftermarket ones do not. The fuel filter does alot more work when a fuel pump sock is not catching the bigger chunks that like to sit around the bottom of the fuel tank. It sounds very similar to the symptoms I had with my old R33 and was easy to fix, with an injector service.

How often do you change your fuel filter? When was the last time you changed it? If the answer to these questions is; * I don't have a routine for fuel filter replacement & * I haven't then you have perhaps one or two injectors that are partially blocked. You will need to clean them. This is most often the case when you have what seems like an overall AFR that is good. Alternatively ensure you don't have too much timing.

Here's some good advice, that will save you some money in the long run. I've seen plenty of RB's with that sort of power last very little time at all on a 'safe tune'. They are suseptible to things like oil surge regardless of the 'tune'. They also don't have suitable rods,rod bolt, pistons etc. for what we would call a motor 'built for 320rwkw'. The Rb26's in old R32 GTR's have usually done alot more kms than the newer RB25det's and factory stock the GTR motor has been running more power. More power = proportionally more wear , another way of saying a shorter engine life. Death from old age is accellerated by an increase in power of this magnitude. At the very least, you are better off 'enjoying' the extra power with this understanding and $9k in your bank for the rebuild at the ready. Otherwise if you don't have the money de-tune the motor a tad to avoid misery. Just trying to help, not trying to be a kill joy.

No one on the forum has tried one as no-one so far has been that big a moron/sucker or if they have they are too embarassed to tell you. The magnet is the same material found on some of your domestic variety speakers. This type of 'scam' device has been in exsistence for years under different names. Notice the used of words like 'claimed' as opposed to independantly proven In the interest of science you can always be 'stupid' and pay good money to test one....your call. Zero to $100 should be the full title, they just left the $ off.

The 260 9mm lift units from Tomei are proven to be good on stock heads with no porting. If I were running ported heads I would be inclined to go for shorter duration 256 but, opt for 10mm or so of lift. Cost is anywhere upwards of $2k installed. You need new gaskets, cam bolts and possibly more shims and of course a re-tune. If you plan on oil pump gear breaking rpm (8,000rpm) then some new valve springs would be a good idea too. Good thing is you can make the 280rwkw earlier in the rev range and with less boost once fitted.On an original engine don't go after more than the 280rwkw you have already.

my old r33 gtst, I used for work got 10L/100kms without issue (city). I only dump in as much fuel as I need for a day or two and run it down to almost empty. 20L of fuel as opposed to 60L means you are almost 40kg less weight to start with.Less weight means better ecconomy and as a plus better power to weight for a moment of spirited driving. It also ensures a cleaner fuel system, with less built up crap in your tank. Ensuring a good state of tune and service is important too.

Only reason to go the one piece is for looks, which is a a good reason all the same. This pipe doesn't suck closed, the amount of flexible rubber is only just enough to allow factory re-fit, the majority is metal. $5 & 5min.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=173016 there you go.

The Ross units are about 2kg less than the factory unit.

sell that piece of crap turbo and buy something else, put a stock one back on and save your money for something thats actually good. Buy a sliding hiflow, you can't get cheaper. It bolts on and unlike the turbo you have it has an actual power curve.

I raised the issues you mention in the conversation I had as I was thinking the same way. What seems to be the case is while there is some logic behind softening the ecu maps to help the trans cope with torque loadings what stands out is the fact that the ecu isn't a trans controller and what it does is to baid aid the fact that the factory trans controller is a fairly basic one when compared to a good aftermarket one. Why have two expensive computers in the car when the ECU for the engine has the head room to allow for a cheaper trans controller? (ok thats maybe a harsh bit of speculation). The factory nissan trans ecu will have a program in it thas pretty unsuitable to an engine with a totally different torque curve (thanks to our high flow turbo's and revised fuel and ignition maps). If you have a trans controller that effectively can trace engine load and just about every other parrameter to do with power delivery in much the same way as an engine ecu can and has the capacity to cater for it, then you have a better solution? The transmission has the inbuilt capacity if programed to cope with a massive range of conditions without the need for the engine ecu to soften things up on the shift. The trans can vary a number of things to ensure a 'good shift' without undue destruction in fact this is the only real way to ensure the best outcome. A customised program for the trans has to be the lions share of the solution in the case of a power upgrade , with the factory ecu left to to do as little as possible. The factory nissan trans ecu will have a program pretty unsuitable to an engine with a totally different torque cure, so you need a new trans ecu if want somthing that works the most effectively. I'm not sure if this makes any kind of sense at all?

I just done 420kms on a tank , 100% city driving. Stock as a rock.