rev210

If you aren't carefull when installing the cam gear on an old stock rubber belt you can end up stretching the belt, it may have already stretched over time. If you don't re-dial the cams afterwards you are likely to find that the magical 4 degrees isn't working, you might need 6 or so. The 4 deg general rule applies to the R33's. R34 GTT Neo Rb25's have a solid lifter cam setup as opposed to the RB25's in R33's, they also have a different profile on inlet and exhaust cams. Making for some potential differences in timings and effects on moving the exhaust cams overlap around. As for larger profile cams, you can always change the shape of the power curve by setting them at different timings. It it typical to be able to fatten the bottom end at the expense of peak power and any number of other variations. Having the option of setting the timing is a good thing for this reason.

might be 100-110 or so but, this changes when down at the pub to 200kg

I seem to recall the Rb25det without manifolds etc, was very hard to carry by myself even for only 10m. I put it around 100kg or so.

You 'can' run those sort of power figures on a stock Rb26 but, on higher km ones it shortens the life of them very rapidly, they ultimately fail because the motors weren't put together to live at that sort of power level.Although there are plenty of people to tell you otherwise (a few friends are running over 400), better safe than sorry.

my 2c. Leave the top end alone till you are ready for the full rebuild at least you don't have the risk of wrecking things you could otherwise use if you are leaning on the stock bottom end with anything more than 370rwhp, forget 500rwhp thats a hand grenade. If it's only a few months away save the money till then.

9.15mm of lift is pretty much the limit. It's not hard to remove the extra material for lobe clearence if you are careful however. Those HKS units are really suited to higher rpm use, as people have suggested extra beefing up of the valve train will be need in terms of springs etc. You are rebuilding the motor? I think you will want to if those cams are matched to the right turbo hardware, you are talking decent rpm and power and an old R32 engine is not going to live for a very long time. There really isn't any 'true' drop in cam for the Rb26 engine given you are talking solid lifters that need shims to get clearences where they need to be. Expect to fork out money for shims and you won't be dissapointed either way. The most luck people have had is with Tomei units in terms of not having to buy the odd shim, and when I say luck thats what I mean. Hope that helps

Hi, Couple of things; I don't want to start a pointless argument about tyres and handling, there are plenty of books written and people about to ask. I was trying to point out that perhaps some stageas have these 'forged' alloy rims and that they are more valuable than most might realise. As it's pretty common in my experience to hear similar things to what you are saying about tyres I can only try and suggest the info you have is somewhat incomplete and a little incorrect. A big patch of rubber contacting the road is great but, thats not the actual goal nor is it by itself the fastest way to that goal. Racing tyres and for that matter any decent brand of road tyre, have rather good sidewalls as a feature of each tyre whether they be a small 205 16 50 series like the ones I have or a 255 18 40 series (actually they both have exactly the same sidewall height of 102mm -- suprised?). The 'radial roll' you reffer to isn't a bad issue on any well matched set of tyres and rims. The sidewalls do alot more FOR handling and traction (corners and straight line) than most realise. Do a little reading and have a chat to Sydneykid or someone who sets up race cars about the topic, you can really benifit from it. For the record I will be happy to demonstrate how my 'povo' 16 inch forged alloys equiped with a good set of rubber outperform the 'bolt on boy' patrol with 18x10 cast alloys be they jap or bobjane ones, some time in the not too distant future (again). Happy to take more technical rebutal's anytime

Should have clarified a tad more for some. At present I have no issues with traction at all with the 205 tyres (this includes corenering), so I don't need wider rims to increase grip right now. Put simply going for a heavier rim & tyre combo 'generally' means; * slower accelleration * slower decelleration * poorer handling * poorer braking * decreased fuel ecconomy * increased load on drivetrain yokotas13, The only advantage for me going from 7inch to 9inch wide rims is 'bling' (not knocking the bling ,just not as important to me). Hope that helps clarify a little

The alloy units on mine are 16 inch as opposed to 15's. Look like baby BBS rims.

I noticed today that the factory stagea alloys are in fact lightweight forged units. Although a little on the narrow side at only 7" wide , a true performance upgrade is going to have to be forged. Will have to see how well the 205's cope with planned power increases.

boost mod is to cut the black wire on the boost control solenoid and earth the part of that wire coming from the solenoid to the body. The connector part going back to the ecu remains cut. Normally you have only 4psi of boost before 4500rpm, then it goes to 7psi. Using this mod gives you the full 7psi at all times. I just worked out that the satnav requires a japanese only CDROM for maps and the tv is ntsc...doh!

I've just joined the stagea ranks today! Pearl white , leather sat-nav auto etc.. BTW anyone know how to fiddle with the satnav and TV to get them working? Only hours into it and the solenoid boost mod is done and K&N panel filter is in. Next up split dump & front pipe.

to summarise the thread. An aftermarket flywheel is; * Better for accelleration -------- in every gear. * Better for the drags ------- If you can't change gears properly a heavy stock flywheel is more forgiving but, don't worry you will run slower times thanks to your heavy flywheel and the fact you can't change gears properly. * Better for decelleration * Better for the circuit/track use * Puts less stress on the gearbox and makes matching rpm for shifts easier than factory. A well designed aftermarket flywheel and clutch setup (they go together) for the road will not; * Effect your fuel ecconomy * Cause drivetrain vibrations or noise * Change hill starting difficulty Some more of my 2c; Select a pressure plate with sufficient clamping force not one that is stupidly sprung.For example a 230rwkw gtst will get away with a factory level of pressure/clamping when matched to a good friction plate with metal/ceramic composition. The heat capabillity of the material is just like brake pads and plays out in use pretty much the same way. Chrome molly flywheels have advantages in strength, wear and heat loads over factory units when using more aggessive friction plate materials, weight aside that is a good enough reason to look at them.

if you took the old turbos off because one was dead, you may have a bore or two with ceramic dust damage. If not you still might have a very worn pot or two. How many kms has the motor done? Do a compression test is step one anyway. My bet is low compression/bad ring seal. You can drive that motor around for a while with your fingers crossed, it will let go one day in the next year. Sorry to be negative

As 2rismo has already said, setup wise there isn't too much in the way of hardware required. The tune is important however. Getting the mixtures right with the fuel and nitrous jets isn't really hard it's a little time consuming. 2rismo, may have a few combo's to try if you start with similar components. The timing needs a little backing off and you need to be prepared to drive the car a little differently. If you can get the solenoids as close to the jets in the intake as you can, so you don't have any 'run on' and you get a better hit if you haven't invested in a purge kit (still no where near as good though).

If you have spent all your money for now , my advice is to leave the car alone and just keep it well serviced. A substancial increase in power will cost you in a substancial and on-going manner. 350rwkw is a fairly expensive proposition to maintain. I think you need dumps if you don't have them, you will make more power. 14psi isn't much boost for N1's , that power isn't really shabby for the boost, they like to live at 18psi or so. If you add some cam gears you ought to be able to tweak the power curve.

With head porting and the ACL's you are perhaps well under the stock compression ratio? Do you have the CC's for the head and spec of the ACL piston used? With a lower compression ratio you will drop the bottom end power off a tad and you will need more boost to make the same power. There is a little bit of swings and round abouts when you throw in head porting but, what the car is really needing is a set of camshafts for turbos that size. You obviously also need to have some split dump pipes, I didn't see them mentioned. If you don't have them with those turbos you are looking at a bottle neck. The other thing to ensure is that you port matched the exhaust manifold for the turbo's exhaust housing entry. 600HP turbos should be matched with head work, cams , intercooler etc.. from an airflow perspective. Just like a turbo's map there is an island of efficiency for each of these components. Attempting to have them line up will always net you a faster and more responsive car. You have lots of the good bits already but, bottom line is throw some injectors (700cc sards aren't bad), dump pipes and cams into that setup and it will be a very different animal.

Wow! Congrats Paul & Lauren! What about the story of how he proposed? Was it a suprise setup? Best wishes for a fantastic life together.

those trust ones are very nice. Again just do the dump pipes, they are excellent bang for buck given the stockers put a muzzle on the horsepower.

upgrade them. They are a shocking design. I left mine on as I ran out of money at the time and I needed the car back on the road. I did my best to port match them (they typically are mis-aligned flange wise) and clean them up. I took plenty of material out. It doesn't change much. My setup was group A turbos, they would still make over 300rwkw but, not as easy as having dumps on there. No question if you upgrade them you will pick up way more than 5rwkw, try 15-20rwkw peak and lots extra all over the power curve, more so if you run big ass turbos. As for cams, they offer very large power improvements on both Rb25 and Rb26 engines across the power curve when correctly setup. Nice to have if you can afford them. You will make more peak power but, more average power is what makes them so great, thats what makes a car fast.

You might like a set of cams in that engine.

Fujitsubo make excellent exhausts for what you are after. They are quiet at idle and at cruise and have a decent sound when on full song. My old R33 ran a Super Ti from memory, was great.

SOLD

****** FOR PICS GO HERE : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=167288 ******************* I've had a change of jobs so I am forced to sell off the beasty. It has looks , handles and is ready to cope with a power upgrade as a simple bolt on. It goes pretty well and has run a 13.3 1/4 mile without the addition of the S-AFC NEO, throw a tune at it and it may just run a high 12. Bolt an Rb25 turbo on and it should be easy. This car has appeared in Perth Street car last year, so it's more than just a neat R32. Custom BBK Black with silver Flake Respray ,Fully detailed engine bay.Body kit. 1989 R32 Gtst Coupe RB20det manual 114000kms Engine & power mods 600x300x75mm fmic with custom poilshed stainless piping Greddy Profec B spec 2 EBC Apexi Super AFC NEO Blitz BOV 3" stainless front pipe (thermo wrapped) with decat pipe , 80mm cat back with x force muffler Oil cooler with remote filter Ross Autoclutch 9 Puck ceramic button clutch 5 spd with redline oil Braided Stainless clutch line Alloy Catch can K/n filter with stainless CAI partition. GTR Fuel pump with direct wiring modification to supply greater flow. timing belt replaced as part of 100,000km major service. Suspension & Wheels Suspension setup to 'handle' , look pimped and with attention paid to grabbing excellent off the line traction. Tein H/A full height and damper coilovers - rebuilt & re-valved to Australian spec Adjustable Rear camber arms adjustable front castor arms Front and Rear Strut braces HICAS lock bar 17x8 Gmax wheels with 225/45 and 235/45 tyres Interior HKS Direct Bright Boost, Oil temp + Pressure gauges Apexi turbo timer Grex gear knob Full autowatch alarm /immob. Clarion Cd player with 4x6" speakers and kenwood amp pioneer sub SOLD Other items that can be negotiated at additional cost if buyer wants a few upgrade bits for later ,will sell these sepparate; * Rb25 turbo series 1.5 (made over 200rwkw) with all lines and elbow. * R25DET Engine head to sump * RB30 'turbo' block (already has oil/coolant feeds no need to modify) with rods & pistons, add to the Rb25det head for a RB30DET conversion.

Things like the wires going to the coils can become brittle in addition to the coils becoming cracked and connections. Splitfire coils offer little over the factory units. The factory units are known to handle substancial boost and power in many cases.