Devils_Advocate21

I find the power characteristics as follows, due to that my engine has been fresh rebuilt so im still running on a lighted tune of 244 rwkw's until i am able to dyno after the first couple of thousand km's. In comparision as am unable to take past 3.5 K rpm for first thousand can only really report on findings so far, I have found that with the .68 housing that the boost will start making from about 2600 rpm, there is plenty of torque with the new turbo and i cannot really post much else until i am able to open it out further. Although i will keep you guys updated when i do with dyno graph and also will update further on power characteristics when this happens, But in the mean time, AAA+++ in my books, also on another note the .68 housing wasnt a by choice option, although my opinion i would have gone the .87 housing as well, or .82, but as im not chasing too larger numbers at the moment i have settled with the .68 housing Hope that helps Cheers Adam

Hmmm resolution eh? 1. More money. 2. Wheels for car 3. 270 rwkws plus mark. 4. Women hmmm, would be good, 5. No smoke its bad. 6. To always be happy like every year. 7. This one should really be for everyone. (To be happy, have fun, and a very safe and prosporous New year for all ) Adam

Th compressor housing clearance of the 3037 pro S with the 56T and also .68 rear clears the manifold with ease, i am still able to mount the factory exhaust heat sheild on there as well on the manifold, no clearance problems at all, only fun is just jiggling around to get the perfect fit (as in jiggling the housings and turning them to properly fit it. but no clearance problems what so ever, as well as the INTWASTE well the actuator just needs some modifying to fit and hold properly, Have no fotos at the moment as am away from normal computer, but if your happy to wait i can get them off to you when i get back, hope that helps. As well as dump/front pipe fabrication, most good exhaust shops should be able to custom one as the funny 5 bolt flange on them. so far so good. Hope that helps out disco, as for proper measure of housing to manifold heat shield space ummm a good centermeter id say but would have to measure Cheers Adam

Good morning alland have a great christmas im out to my Parents house so wont be on here, Merry X mas and dont do anything stupid on the roads. Cheers A

Sign me up and count me in! Should be tuned and ready to go. Cheers Adam

How do you know if its a GENUINE walbro pump it could be a copy good apples vs bad apples unfortunatley the bads are winning on the walbro pumps. If thats any indication of quality plus rectification of this now saves hassels later on id say

or another one, get someone to pressure test and set the actuator for you:) that way it will be acurate Cheers

Goto nengun, look dream make list and buy!!! thats the way to do it, oh and to kill the moment of high power to non rebuilt motor, 244 rwkws at 11psi with gt3037proS and spat the little end bearing Oh 130000 km on the clock?? Little advice, do the basics exhaust(done), fmic, suspension, fuel pump, injectors, pfc, pod filter , coilpacks, cams, and then tune. By that time you'll have money left over Get use to the power then do the next stage after you save more money, IE: turbo. and just in case always always save and plan for anything that is unexpected that might happen. Saves the heart ache in the end. Theres no real way or set way you should follow to do upgrades, but then again, why not have a read of others experiences on here then do a list. The other advice, unless you know its genuine km's for sure, never take notice of the KMS on the dash My opinion Cheers A

Towards the back of the tank you will see the area where the bracket is meant to hook back onto, plus if the above senario sounds rihgt try and get the pickup down as far as you can on the tank in the middle right at the back, this is the lowest point i have found on the tank especially that the fuel suck/pickup point is here for the stock pump i found that originally the bracket was just lose inside the tank, so had to mount back in its original position. Check that out and see how you go, by the sounds of it the pump is facing sideways and not low enough in the tank, hence centrifugal forces will act acordingly, hence not sucking enough fuel. Cheers Adam

Couldnt you fast the VIN number on the engine, surely they have it stamped on the block or something.

I recon do yourself a favour and get a better fuelpump, no mention is the walbro direct connection to battery loop or using the standard fuel power source, your setbacks are the pump and turbo choice, let alone its all been said above, ove noticed lowered compression ratio with the head gasket so you should be able to pump in a bit pending on what your turbo allows you to do im guessing? Goodluck on your endevours and keep us posted

Go the hks rb25 to rb28 kit and you'll be right on the money then big hp takes big $$$$$ good luck in your adventures

Tuning? maybe

It doesnt matter what race, or nationality these criminals are, Imigration laws have nuthing to do with anything concerning theivery car theft or the likes. Why does race have to determine these things that just rubbish? There are criminals out there of all race, nationality, color and the likes, you cannot just specify it down to a race as seems to be done above, at the end of the day they are the same they are damn theiving criminals thats all it comes down too? Just hoping that they catch these people soon enough before theres nuthing left but shells of cars in the dump yard! Cheers

In other words you say theres an insider on this one B2?

Why do we encourage frying tyres?

Has anyone actually changed there old rubber fuel hoses?? I was under the assumption that ethanol based fuels will harden these older hoses that we are running making them crack and get brittle?? Can someone correct me here? Cheers A

Hmm something reminds me here of gone in 60 seconds?? No good at all, the guys are right they will most likely be stripped of parts as its easier to move and sale them off, rather than whole cars. Something says this joint was cased for a while to do such s big hiest like that, Hope insurance pays off

Still few items remaining please help me get rid of them Cheers Guys

how longs a piece of string mine let go at 244 rwkws with a 3037S

What you want is torque and power not just power, the more power equates to faster increase in speed? but then again if it feels similar to the old one, take it to dyno and check things out, ie: another dyno different to the one you have been to? 40 rwkws you can feel the difference in yes, why not add cams to your next list or maybe fresh rebuilt and change a few more things.

Have to get quote for postage today for you and send you a pm, sofar yes ill take that. but wait till i get quote for post Cheers

easiest way is try and track down a stud remover guy to do it for you unless you have an air compressor right angle drill drill bits and also easy outs/stud removers be able to do it yourself why not pull off manifold and everything around it and have a look you will find you may break more studs as well as you do it but hey atleast youll be able to replace them easier as well, good luck

No worries ill hold that for you

bump