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Everything posted by W0rp3D
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How much of a difference was there, both on paper and seat of the pants?
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But then all the intake and dump needs to be made again as it dosnt put the turbo in the factory location.
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if i can get the motivation to go again i might put some good tyres on the 17's i have and run those, but atm hill climb and track day are my next focus.
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I also had not really practiced launching it much on the street, in fact the first real go i gave it was on the way to calder leaving a set of lights at the start of the freeway, that resulted in a loud pop in 3rd gear and a ball of flames that i could see over the top of my gtr spoiler in the rear vision mirror, 1.5 hours later and new clamp bought and installed we were on our way again!
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I also didnt bother changing tyre pressure as its a street car and i wanted to see how it went in the same trim that is in every day of the week, as i have read a few times since then, there seems to be more traction on the street than at calder, just want to get the f**ker out of the hole better more often!
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On a stock motor?
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there is a problem in the system some where now, no idea of how big or how small it is, was not pulling as hard on sunday as it did on friday and there seems to be another slightly different noise when boosting, still has the same whistle but now it also has something like a whistle but a bit more dull as well, will pull all the induction off this weekend and check things out.
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thats the only one with close to that 60ft, i think one other was 2.5 rest were 2.6 2.7. The limiter is at 7k, i think i hit it in 1st but not the rest, the dyno graph shows no boost drop....... dunno!
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federal 595ss 235/40/18
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That pass was either 2.4 or 2.6 cant remember exactly. was tuned at RE customs just under 2 weeks ago!
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Vk Rb30Det Drift Project
W0rp3D replied to NeMesiS-R34's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
If you like doing something different and playing with things to make then work then it would be a fun project, if you just want a rb30 powered drift car then there are cars much better suited to drifting than the vk, an R31 for one! If you like doing things different then just be aware that there are not many (i havnt seen one but im sure there is a couple) of well set up vk drift cars which means getting it right will be a matter of testing different things till you get it to work, which for some is half the fun! -
good for you, did you read my previous posts?
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saturday was my second time, although not much was the same from the first, 3540 V's VG30 highflow, jim berry clutch V's exedy hd and federal 595ss V's sort of decent cheapies. First time i think the best was 14.6@8xmph this time was 14.0@107mph Was hoping for a high 12 lol, by the end of the day i was just after a 13.99999999999!
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what is WMI?
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Not interested in changing the turbo atm, just looking to make what i have work. I was hoping for over 300 but if its not going to get there then im thinking i may as well go back to standard.
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Could have been me, there is one other black one i see around, mine has a vented bonnet and personalised plates.
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I tried that method at calder on saturday but just couldnt get the f**ker out of thw hole right!
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i know this is an old thread but i believe it has relevance more than ever these days! Im thinking about going back to a standard exhaust manifold from a china copy, the one i have is a copy of a hpi, it came with the turbo set up i bought second hand with a 3540, i was hoping for a little over 300rwkw but so far have only made 250 on 18 psi, the tuner has pin pointed at least one thing that is holding it back, the xforce cat, but even after that is fixed he still only expects it to get 270-280. One of the things i have been trying to do with this set up is to keep it looking as stock as possible, having the exhaust manifold rise to above the cam cover certainly dosnt help that, i have put a heat shield on it but it still dosnt help a whole lot, with the standard manifold i believe it would be easier to do these sorts of things, i could also use the factory bov return which atm i have no bov return because there is no space to route it, and then theres the china manifold mods. When i got it the head flange was so bent there was 8mm difference from one end to the other, the easiest way to fix it was to cut the flange between each runner so when bolted up it would be easier to pull each one straight, but after/while doing that the gaps would close as saw as i had finished cutting them (killing 4 cutting discs) by the time i had cut big enough slots to have space the manifold was too short, the easiest way to fix this was to jam washers between each runner to space it out, in the end it was spaced just enough to get it on all studs, didnt think of it at the time but what are the chances that now the runners dont line up with the ports properly? So the question is: A) 5 years on is there any more proof(for or against) that the factory manifold is good up to 270-280rwkw? B) If there is a power restriction at the level roughly how much is it? C) Is there any way to improve the factory manifold? or D)I should just spend the time making sure the china lines up and keep that?
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LOL, i think it is in the category of "i knew what i was saying" lol, just didnt make it clear enough i guess....
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LOL, for some reason i have always thought paul, i posted that from my iphone and it dosnt display all that extra stuff lol The gizzmo is the "damaging" kind as well, probably why they dont make it any more!
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Thank you Phil, now that it has been clarified once again I will ask the question, is there a standalone launch control?
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Ok so let me clarify, when I said after market I meant stand alone, ones that are not built into an ecu as I'm sure the likes of motec have the same as the "factory" one I meant.
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So what understand through here and other research is that a 2 step or any other after market rev limiter have the same effect as anti lag IE: creates boost when stationary by retarding the ignition to a point where the combustion pretty much happens in the manifold which is what spools the turbo. The only difference between an after market limiter or 2 step and anti lag is that the only time you get this effect with a limiter is when your sitting on the limiter? The problem is that this is exactly what i wish to do but with out the harsh effect if the ignition retarding so far and doing all the things that cause damage, a little bit of that effect would be fine just not to the point where it will start blowing turbo's, engines and oil pumps or where it will be making 18psi on the line and i will just be turning the tyres on launch. So far the only set up that i can think of that will be a comprimise would be to use different boost controller settings, my boost controler has 6 settings you can save and i can hook up a button to quickly cycle through these, i guess my best bet would be to set up one setting that is minimal boost to get off the line then the next is more boost for second gear and more again for top of second/third (or with the right tyres just have full boost on the second setting). This how ever does not eliminate the main part that i want to get rid of, the bit that damages the engine and causes boost, i could go a fuel cut but that runs the risk of leaning out, its looking like if i want to go in this direction im just going to have to risk it and just try to time it so im only on the limiter for minimal amount of time.