W0rp3D

so when does this come into effect, i have read/watched 4 reports 2 say this year and 2 say next year.....

the factory coil packs are pretty much the best you can get, the problem is there age, as for replacing them, if it aint broke dont fix it, as long as there in good condition the power your aiming for wont hurt em.

just found you on there and the links in your sig on that site dont work either and i went back through your posts to may 9th and it dosnt show any posts from you in that thread alf! Has it been deleted or in a section you need to be a special member to access?

now that it lets me log in the link dosnt work

let me know when you wanna do it, what suburb are you in?

i also forgot to mention that mine needs to be 3" both ends and fit with the factory intercooler piping, cant believe noboby makes a 3" to 3" intake pipe from any type of material!

And since you are new to this stuff let me give you a basic guide to reflect on through out the modding process, read this a while ago and now realise how 100% true it is. When modding you have 3 options: 1) cheap 2) reliable 3) fast the catch is you can only pick 2 of the 3 options so choose wisely

but since they cant do anything with the r33 ecu you will have to get a z32 or r32 ecu and do some wiring or internal mods to make them work, z32 would be the best option as it allows you to keep the vct, or for just over a grand (1100-1200) you could find a power fc if you hunt around. if you only want 220rwkw then get a jusp jap return flow intercooler, i would also get rid of the pod and put the factory air box back on (good for 250rwkw so no need for a pod) which will keep you legal, there is also no need for the aftermarket bov either, the factory one will cope fine! BUT the first thing to get is a 3" cat, for that power an xforce from justjap will also do fine The other things you will need around 220rwkw is injectors, fuel pump and a z32 afm. After all of that go to this HYPERGEAR thread and hook your self up with a highflow, i would personally shoot for around 250rwkw to take advantage of all the money you have spent on the supporting mods.

where abouts in melbourne are you?

can you make a 33 gtst one with out the car? How much for one with the bov pipe and vent pipe, if its easier you can put the vent pipe on the turbo side of the intake as i run a catch can and the return hose comes out between the strut and the airbox.

It dosnt look professional, maybe some disgruntled local trying to film ppl doing the wrong thing?

i know someone who will take this if its still available

i have a set of gtr ones that will fit if your still looking

and if you have one in vic im chasing one aswell

that must be a record, under 2 hours lol

lol, and your email came back with this: Delivery to the following recipient failed permanently: [email protected] Technical details of permanent failure: Google tried to deliver your message, but it was rejected by the recipient domain. We recommend contacting the other email provider for further information about the cause of this error. The error that the other server returned was: 550 550 Requested action not taken: mailbox unavailable (state 14).

it says you cant receive pm's, i sent an email to the address under your avatar.

To be honest im not sure how much meat they have on them standard so i included pics so everyone can judge for them selves, what i do know is that it never slipped or gave me problems, only changed it because i was aiming for over 300rwkw and it wouldnt handle that much power, pretty much the same reason i did the coil packs.

Any idea what model the coil pack cover is off, 33 or 34? if it dosnt have the 2500 badge on it i'll take it

Garrett turbo Beanie $100 M spec driving lights in the indicator housing $50 exedy hd clutch NSD098U $100 gtr coil packs, also fit S1 33 gtst $150 Forgot to get pics of these, will put some up soon. Located in frankston.

what ever any one says is purely a guess, heres what you do: 1) Get a working boost controller 2) Put it back on the dyno 3) Wind the boost up as high as possible 4) Come back and let us know how it went!

sounds like thrust bearing, had what sounds like the same sort of thing and it dissapered when i did the thrust bearing.

do they need to be adjusted? If not then i would assume its just a matter of taking the old out and putting the new one in, have a look in the DIY section for the diff shimming thread, shows you what you have to do to get the diff out, looks pretty easy!

It pays to read the whole thread, the first post was 5 years ago, i chose to bring it up again as it has relevant information and was interested to see if there has been any definitive answers gained in the 5 yrs since this was posted, its also relevant in that its the exact same manifolds being talked about today as it was 5 yrs ago when the thread was posted!

ummmmmmm 2530??? where did you get that from, i have a 3540!