W0rp3D

And how much of a life you have, and for this particular one I guess it depends if you have a mother or not!

Your my hero

no cash needed, im over it, straight swap.

It also has a fibreglass bonnet on it now, do you want one?

not a chance, my car hasnt been outside carrum downs/frankston at all this year, in fact today is the 3rd time i have driven it this year!

LOL, your kidding me right? Your trying to plan a cruise that for most people on here will be a long distance cruise with 1 weeks notice?

Ummmmm, dosnt the TB bolt to the plenum? if not how far away is it?

no point, your restricted by the turbo outlet, stay 2.5, only reason to go 3 is if you dont like the look of a 3 - 2.5 reducer on your throttle body, in which case just use 3" for the cold side.

ej1 is shyte, use to have one, go with the hks one or there is another option that i cant think of atm.

also sounds a lot like something i heard a long time ago, putting welding tips in the vac line.

do you know of any good tutorials, for legal reasons i would rather not run an ebc but it seems like the way to go unless you can shed some light on how to set up an adjustable gate properly.

Your gonna blow your self up, you've got a heavy foot!

you actually want to set the wastegate below the pressure you set the ebc at. most internal wastegates will start to open as you get towards full boost, a properly set up ebc will eliminate this and wont release the pressure to make the wastegate open till a fraction before or right on the boost setting.

The bearings seem ok, bit hard to see them as there covered by rubber, all else looks as good as they do in the pics. A word of advice, when taking off the bolt off the body i suggest you get the car in the air and the wheel off hit it with some wd40 and go have lunch, come back every 5 minutes and hit it again, i hit the first one 5 minutes prior to trying to undo it, i almost pulled the car off the jack stands trying to undo it, after that every time i had to get up to do something i hit the other side with some wd40, once i went to do it was still hard but no where near as bad as the first side.

here is a pic of the arms with the standard, the shorter one was how long i guessed it should be, i did wind it in a bit tho as it was too hard to get on the arm. here is the arm installed, almost matches the cusco coil overs! the camber before the install. after install. and what it does to the tyres. Next step is to get them adjusted properly when the new tyres go on and then a tune for the 3540 i just put on

1) Because i didnt think it would be this bad when i put the manifold on. 2) It is a chinese copy so i was a little worried about keeping that much heat in there. 3) The runners are very close together and would have been hard to wrap properly. This is a pic of the manifold that mine is a copy of, runners are very tight.

You are correct, in the middle of doing it now, replacing rear struts at the same time, will take before and after pics of the canber as well, although i will just be guessing how much to wind them out by, looks like probably 20mm longer than the standards would do it but i will do 10mm coz i will be getting it done properly thiss week when i get new rear tyres.

Dont suppose you know of any flick keys with a blank to skylines? Was told that the 350z ones do so i bought one, they dont, the blank is too thick and wont fit in the lock.

I have only driven it a couple of times to have stuff done before i get it tuned, last time i opened the bonnet and could not keep my hand on the cross over pipe it was so hot! The manifold only touch's in two locations which are both on the turbo side away from the cross over pipe, hopefully it will be enough to keep the intake temps down.