chris davey

good for circuit use. check regs on your class. required if you run a 10 in drags.

bump. still got em

For sale: race suit Item Condition: new Price and price conditions: see below Extra Info: see below Pictures: see below Contact Details: here by pm Location: Sunshine Coast Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: Buyer pays postage if required I have a full race suit for sale. It is to suit someone around 175cm & 70kg. It is all brand new stuff. I am selling as I am going overseas. The following is what I have Gforce GF505 Nomex jacket black (medium) $240 Gforce Nomex pants black (medium fits 32" waist) $210 Simpson Nomex socks (size 10-11) $25 Gforce Racegrip mid-top racing shoes size 10.5 $90 Gforce Pro 5 race gloves (medium) $120 except black Or $670 for the lot. All gear is SFI 3.2A/5 or better and BRAND NEW. Items on Sunshine Coast. Will post at buyers expense. Chris

That's a great idea. Wish they did the same thing at Willowbank.

No clutchless boxes allowed in SR/SA/SF Congrats Mark. Hope you do well at the nationals and represent the sport compact guys well

Hmm...cheque book racer? I am sure you have learnt a lot. Good work and good luck with it.

Mini-Jamboree is usually on late march at Willowbank Raceway, QLD. Would be awesome to see this thing run!

why would water temp never go above 80? would be setting the timing to drop 10deg at 110 and about 3 at 100deg and below that 0. On my ecu, it is done through air temp as well and I pull a few deg above 50deg air temp.

Shane has explained it

I have a microtech and have never experienced what you said. They don't just change tune by themselves. As said, it could be correction factors. Check the ait temp compensation map and the water temp compensation map. water should be at 0 by 80deg. I have air at -2% from 60deg and up so if temps get very hot it will reduce fuel. (hot air = less dense = less oxygen) I would be checking the fuel pump as was said. Make sure that you are running exactly the same boost also. MT's have a very "tight" MAP sensor so I know mine fluctuates a bit from 14-16psi when a guage or a dyno shows 15psi dead on. I am going to fit a filter on the MAP line to smooth this out.

isn't it a no brainer? You go on the dyno so that the car is safe and can be raced? racing on same day as dyno day. I sure as hell know which one I would be going to! PT field looks huge!

70 2500 90 3200 100 3450 110 3900 130 4600 150 5300 170 6000 190 6700 This is what I get for a 1:1 gear ratio in 4th, 4.11 diff gears and 235/40/18’s. Does this look about right? So full boost around 3500rpm then? And then slowly goes up from there. Also here is some comparisons I have done with a mate of mine who runs a gt3076R on a 1jz auto. Ben Mafia Power (kw) 304 295 Rpm 6200 6700 Engine 1jz-gte RB25DET Capacity 2.5L 2.5L Trans auto manual Stall converter 2800 n/a Turbo GT3076R GT3076R Comp exducer 76 76 Comp trim 52 56 Comp inducer 54.97 57 Turbine inducer ? 60 Turbine trim ? 84 Turbine a/r 0.9 0.63 Turbine exducer 53.6 ? Boost 23 18 Fuel 100RON 98RON AFR ? 12.2-12.0 to 13.0 up top W/I no yes Other HKS DLI Cam gears GT3076R CHRA:700177-0011 Neglecting the fact that yours is manual and his is auto with a stally so that will reduce power at the wheels it does seem as though the WI is doing a lot of good. 5psi more with a larger a/r and not too much difference in total power. His car makes 23psi by about 3900rpm so very similar spool up.

very interested to see the results. Adriano: do you have any dyno or 1/4 mile times?

I thought I was the only person that had used this turbo If you google it you will probably get a whole heap of posts by me These are the specs I found out. Compressor A/R: .72 inducer: 62.5mm trim: 56 Turbine T4 flange A/R: .9 exducer: 66mm On my car it was a lag monster. The car is a toyota corona with a 1jz in it, auto, 4.6:1 diff gears. My car would make 10psi at 6000rpm in 1st gear and then full boost at about 5200rpm in higher gears. I don't know if it was just my setup but it only made 240rwkw@17psi. Setup is, FMIC, 3" piping, 4" dump pipe, 3" exhaust, fuel system, microtech, 100RON plus octane booster. The lag wasn't helped by the fact the wastegate was opening up well before it needed to though. No boost controller. I would stick with it for a bit and see if it makes good power. If so, leave it. Otherwise, I would be looking at a GT3582R with 1.06 to have less lag than this and make more power. GT4088R with .8x a/r would be good also, apparently the PT modded GT4088's with .8x a/r on a 1jz are quite streetable.

Very interesting read. Just a few questions, what size tyres do you run? What diff gears? Would like to know rpm rather than speed. Your car is manual right? Do you plan on taking it to the drag strip? It would be interesting to see what trap speed you end up with. I would estimate 123mph with a weight of 1450kg including driver. Congrats on tuning it yourself as well. I do the same on my car and it is great to see other people doing the same.

Firstly, this info. is not relating to a nissan engine. I have had bad experiences with a wolf 3d v4. I had it professionally installed and tuned by a wolf distributor. The car never ran very well. It felt very rough e.g. I would have to pump the throttle a few times to get it started. The idle was a bit iffy etc. Because of this ecu I will not be going to a wolf again. In the end, I got rid of that and got a MT LT12s and x6 igniter. Wired it up which was very easy and took me and my mate (who have never installed an ecu before) 2 hours. Cranked it over and started first go and idled smooth as. In the steps above re plug and play. A big advantage the MT has is that it is configured to an engine so you can wire it in and it will start straight away. No need to sort out crank triggers etc. I have found customer support to be very good also as they have a forum to ask questions. On paper, the wolf is a better ecu with a lot more tuning resolution etc. but in the end it never ran properly and I am very happy I changed. Re EMU: I know a guy that loves using emanages on soarers. He gets some very good results and part of the reason is that he knows the software inside out. A microtech is pretty easy to tune IMO if you have the correct tools and have a brain I have been tuning my car from day 1 with the MT and it really isn't rocket surgery. Re wolf v500 plug in: I would wait and see if anyone has had one and if you actually can just plug it in and it runs as per normal. I am a bit doubtful. Re map sensors: t-piece into a vacuum line (that isn't FPR) and put it to the ecu. Takes all of 2 minutes Anyway, that is my 2c. I still think that you should talk to whoever you want to tune your car if you aren't going to do it yourself and go on there recommendations (unless they tell you to get a 10k motec for a basic street car ) or if you are tuning yourself, take a look at the software for different ecus and see which one you like

Very nice car. I have seen it numerous times at Willowbank and always puts on a good show. What is your best time and mph BTW? And with Nitrous or no nitrous? Regardless, quality car and good on you for sticking with the 2.5L

check out www.ausrotary.com for info. As was said, lots of quick rotars. (usual at a sport compact meet). Street RWD was great. 3 out of 4 semi finalists were toyotas Ooh, this is a nissan site Good day for me even though I wasn't racing. SM and ST289 rocked. Pac went 7.06. I have vids on youtube if you search for mini jam you will see them. About 20 all up. Theo's car broke an engine somehow. No details. Mark Jacobsen's car was going hard and big skids. Apc evo ran a 8.8@168mph. Corey armstrong ran a 7.19. Wayne Dyson went 8.25 Archie went 8.5x. 1jz747 got both records for ET and MPH. 10.00 and 146mph IIRC in street rwd. All from memory, so could be out a little.

You need to mention trap speeds. ET varys on power deliver and traction. For example, I ran 13.3 with 215rwkw. Sounds about normal depending on what type of car and weight. But I did it at 114mph. So initially you could think that that was about right maybe a bit slow. Then when you mention the MPH you can see that there is power there but it hasn't been used efficiently.

He didn't have a GT35R before. Aristos come out with a 1uz/1jz-fe and 4wd. They also come out with a 2jz-gte. put 2 and 2 together

5 X 114.3 pattern please. Located Sunshine Coast, QLD. Thanks

I saw the results on Willowbank site the other day. Great work! Was it no. 2 qualifier in super sedan as well? Pretty damn good effort for a 2.6L on street tyres!

I thought spinfest was ok. I entered my car in it as it doesn't get out that much. Some pretty sweet cars there. Heaps that I hadn't seen before. I agree that the entry fee was a bit much but there was a fair bit of stuff to see there. Much better than sitting on alex hill IMO I also heard that the piggies setup 2 defect stations on nicklin way so I got someone to scout the area before I left. My car is mostly legal but some things are just BS. Will be pulling it off the road next June anyway, just have to last until then

If you can't run a 12 with 220rwkw in an r33 there is something wrong with the setup/driver. JZZ30 soarer, 226rwkw, auto, street tyres, 12.9@113, 2.160ft. Seeing as a soarer weighs about 200kg or so more than an r33 and a 2.1 60ft isn't even that great from the soarer it should be pretty easy for a skyline.

Bloody hell. Sound like an American. If it doesn't "bolt on" it isn't worth using. Seen americans asking if there is a "kit" to fit a 2jz into an s13. This is heading right in that direction.