IanB

Hm I know you said youd prefer to sell the lot, but would you seperate out the callipers? If so, quite intrested, pm me with a price Regards Ian

R35, espically if you can get an ADM one. Warranty ftw over modified vehicle. Its going to be much more reliable and headache free. Buy, key, on, drive. With the R34 its going to be a long list of things that you will need to worry about to get it to the 360kw or so that the R35 enjoys. Remember that the R35 is a latest tech motor with all the fancy-pants that that brings. But the price difference between the two is significant. About 100k. You can buy alot of go fast bits for 100k, even if your paying someone else to do it all for you. With even 25 - 30 k you could walk into most reputable tuners shops and say you want a rebuilt motor and 360 kw at the wheels please and they should be able to sort you out. But be careful, if you do that in the wrong workshop they will wind up taking all your money and giving you as little in return as possible. Unless you enjoy tinkering with your motor. I personally dont mind so much when mine breaks as I have another car, and tinkering is half the fun with these things. In the handling department, well I dont know. The 34 is lighter I believe but the 35 is probably a better engineered car, gearbox at the back, weight distribution and whatnot. But then if you spend a little bit on the 34's handling it will also handle like a dream, their not bad from factory anyway. Between the modded 34 and the 35 I think the 34 would be the more aggressive angrier car. But the 35 would have more class and turn more heads. I'd have the 35, but I can certainly appreciate why people would want the 34. my 2c

My mate put a turbo on a MX5 BOV'less and it lasted about 5 months before the shaft play was quite bad. No shaft play to begin with. He has another one of the exact same turbo (he baught my old turbos, R34 standards) and is running it with a BOV and it is fine and has lasted already longer then the last one. In that mind that does it for me.

id give you 4 - 5 for it and use it as a daily. It would live on the road while my GTR which i would barley ever drive would sit pretty in its lockup sealed dry garage, only coming out for weekend warrior stints and track days. Actually, im pretty serious about that. If you do decide to sell for that sort of money with all the bits it has, come see me.

Im sorry but I dont believe a pre-00 WRX would have a GTST at the drag strip. Ive been out to my local (willowbank) plenty of times and stock WRX's run mid 15's whereas 33 ST's are high 13 low 14ish cars...

Cant you just drive the car to a qualified RWC mechanic? If its roadworthy then it should be able to be driven there, yes?

There also all a bit out of my current budget unfortunately

I have been happy with the preformance of two sets of federal 595's in 245/45/17 however am now switching to Kuhmo ku36's as there is a negligible price difference between them. The kuhmos will not last anywhere near as long however, so if the car was a pure street car I think 595's are good for their price.

Ill be putting ku36's in 235/45/17 on my GTR shortly, I will let you know how they go. Ill be using them as a combined street/track tyre. I am under no illusions, they are a road tyre/compound in a semi slick pattern and nothing more.

:| Seriously, 150k and no sat nav, that's a joke and really doesn't help with the "GTR is a affordable supercar" line...

Im grabbing a set of KU36's in 235/45/17 from Option1 currently priced at 155 each: http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=369686 I know their not a proper semi, but hopefully their performance shouldn't be too bad on the track. They probably wont last as long as the 595's have but im willing to live with this. They should outperform the 245/45/17 595's.

Hi everyone I know there's already a tyre thread, but I have found out recently that the old prices no longer apply and I need some suggestions on new rubber. I currently run federal 595's in 245/45/17 - I know 235/45/17 is a LOT cheaper as its dunnydore/falcoon size and id be open to the idea of going to a slightly smaller but sticker tyres, however the stickier the tyre the faster it wears out right? So larger tyres that are a little bit harder would last longer and still provide the same level of preformance? I have been happy with the performance of the 595 and I have had a few sets of them now, for cheapies they preform rather well, (I did pay 155 if memory serves for them back in the day) however my tyre contact has told me they are now 170 a corner and this has caused me to ask what else could be had for that sort of money. Oh, I also live in brisbane, qld. The car is used mostly for weekend driving and I live in and amongst the hills on the northside so I do tend to put a fair bit of strain on my tyres. Average tyre life so far has been 6 - 9 months, which I can live with considering my driving style. I also get out on the track when I can afford to do so however I am saving up for a set of semis so I dont know how much of a bearing that will have on this conversation. Regards Ian

if the sale falls through let me know, will be keen.

Hey mate, intrested in: Steering wheel FMIC Factory Gear nob Seat Belts (if original items) I live in Mitchelton, brisbane, which is just around the corner. Send me a PM with your phone number ill arange a time to come out and have a look at what you have. Regards Ian

The id3 is a good controller. Ive run one for years and never had a problem. Never spikes and my tuner had worked with it before, as most tuners will.

+1 for godzilla

Sounds like the better option mate, I want to hold onto mine as a spare in case the aftermarket one fails anyway.

What route did you wind up going on?

Was going to come sat around waiting for my mate who was adamant about wanting to come the night before, he has fallen off the face of the planet. Was it a good day?

is the crank angle sensor plugged in? Its the round thing on the front of the motor near the radiator. //edit oops 45ULT already suggested that, my bad

I have a spare 32 GTR pump lying around that you could have for $150 worked 100% when I pulled it out.

Keen on the injectors. Can you PM me a pic? Top feed low impedance?

I normally work sundays but if not ill come along

sounds airflow meter related to me. Clean it and put it back on, if you still have problems get a multimeter out and check the outputs on it. Had a similiar problem in my 32 R a while back, RB's can hunt sometimes due to AFM problems.

Where are you located? I would be willing to help out probably, but I would need a sufficient deposit / item of value equal to the value of the wheels and tires to hold onto until I got the wheels back and I would need them back the same day.