IanB

Might be the go to get some Nissan pads, I wounder what their performance is like however. Oh also a quick note on a typo in the op, I meant A1RM's not D1RM's

hmm just a word to the wise, you seem to have come here asking for opinions, gotten some you don't agree with and due to financial reasons rejected them. If you were only interested in the opinions of the people who said keep it, then why bother asking at all? The damage looks serious enough to me to warrant replacement, tires (and brakes) are the single most important item on your car as they are at the end of the day the only thing that actually stops it, why risk it? +1 to replacing it. This from a uni student who has to run a 32 GTR on more then likely far less money then you have.

I run the solid cusco ones, +5 camber I think? Good units. Have served me well.

does it vibrate really badly through the steering wheel? If so, your wheel/wheels may be out of balance. See a tyre shop.

//edit this is how the book says to do it. It mentions nothing about the Master and I cannot recall having bled my master when I did it last, and the system works fine. Disconnect Negative Terminal Rear Left Rear Right Front Left Front Right Abs Front Abs Rear See bellow snippet from book.

hahaha i wasnt sure what to expect when seeing this but it was quite funny

ahh I got some of that but it leaves a nasty coat on top of the rotor that im not comfortable about and fills in the slots on the rotors. Also really hard to clean off the wheels.

Running the A1RM's, cannot get them to shut up no matter what I do (see http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sq...ks-t254897.html for more info) Awesome performance, unbearable on the street however and I think I shall have to soon replace them, maybe might put them back on for track days etc.

what do you mean by this?

By calliper bolts do you mean the two bolts that old the callipers on? Should I grease them up? Ive just dont them up as tight as i can, I was thinking of loctiting them in with a soft threadlocker. Or do you mean the two bolts that go through the pads to hold them in place? If this is the case, what grease should I use? I tried coating them in the CRC red stuff and this seemed to help for a while but the effect soon returned. To bed in, I used rough sand paper to rough up the top of the pad then I basically did 6 - 8 100 - 20 or so stops and a few 60 - 0 stops in a local back street however I didnt want to annoy too many people so I left it at that, the brakes were squealing rather badly and the car is not quiet by any means.

wow. Get firefox, it has a built in spell checker... but um anyway, I think this threads more focused on qld...

no, you should be fine. Check anyway but i highly doubt it.

Hi all I am at my wits end to solve this problem ive had with squealing brakes. Im running QFM D1RM pads on DBA 4000 slotted rotors. Rotors were brand spankers when pads went on. I have tried: With shims Without Shims With shims and CRC Red anti squeal glue between the shim and the pads backing plate. Without shims and the anti squeal glue between the calliper and the pad Using the glue to glue in all parts - The pins, the spring and the saftey pin to stop them from vibrating I also tried the above with a loctite substance on the recommendation of the seller of these pads, again, no effect. I have also extensively cleaned the rotors, calipers and surrounding parts to remove dust build ups. After none of this worked, I got more aggressive. I compared the profile of the pad to a Bendix ultimate pad and noticed the ultimate had sloped edges. I used sand paper to rough up the top of the pad then wear away the edges so they were slanted, then went and bedded the brakes back in. This seems to have somewhat reduced the effect but its still quite strong. im now completely out of ideas. Any assistance I could get would be great. This is ruining the whole driving experience for me as I am afraid to touch the brakes for fear of drawing massive amounts of attention to myself. The pads I use are supposed to be quiet and not squeal and have had tons of good reviews, and I have seen them used in other cars with excellent results. Their performance is awesome with lots of bight and no fade but the noise is unbearable. Help?

that sounds to me like attessa doing what it normally does. It will bring torque onto the fronts under mid - heavy acceleration. Basically anything sufficent to generate more then a few pound of boost. This is normal, my car does it and the half-dozen or so other GTR's I have driven also do this. Its to stop you from loosing traction under heavy acceleration. If you wanted a RWD car, you should of bought a GTST.

I have a button as well and i must double clutch every down shift, it becomes second nature and you learn to heel toe pretty quickly.

if someone like say porche wanted to study a VR38, there are plenty of crashed ones they could buy on the cheap, but I suspect they have already purchased a R35 GTR at some point.

interested in the clutch, push type? comes with a flywheel? can you pm me with pics and a shipping estimate to 4053, one with COD and one without? How much meat is left in it? Regards Ian

Hey mate does this come with the molychrome flywheel? Also, has it been used since it was reconditioned? Who did the recond? Regards Ian

godzilla if your willing to do the drive. You wont be disappointed.

R34's are hardly a dinosaur. They have a strong following, and if the R32's are anything to go by they will be good for some time yet.

id pay 160 bucks for 2 and a quarter days of R35 ownership. Problem is it'd get so flogged out by the time it gets to the last guy on the list itll probably be broken.

Ive got both my car and my girlfriends imported MX5 insured with JCIA. They have given me a good agreed value (23.5) and gave my gf a reasonable one as well (10k). Ive never had a problem where ive had to claim with them, but Stephs had a few at-fault accidents (she likes to give cars in front of her a affectionate nudge every now and then) and they have been pretty prompt with repairs and payment, and have followed up when we found runs in the paint etc fairly well. Im yet to see the difference in how an assessor deals with claims from a 60 kg 5 foot 9 chicks car and a 21 (soon to be 22) year old's GTR however hopefully I shall never find out.

My car just came back from godzilla, have only driven it home so far in the heat and the traffic but it seems to be much much healthier, much stronger and much happier then when it drove in. Some mechanical problems were found on the dyno and fixed there and this may account somewhat for this, but both their mechanical work and their tune seem to be A-grade, the car is running very nicely indeed. Their easily the most knowledgeable and professional workshop that I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with, and Mark seems to actually care about his reputation as opposed to some um, other, workshops. Mark takes pride in his work and customer satisfaction seems to defiantly matter to him, so I will certainly be going back there next time I need a workshop. He has implanted a few ideas in my head as to what the next step for my car should be and ill probably start pursuing this. Only shame is its a 35 min drive from my house, but its quite certainly worth it. He has cars coming from all over the country so in the grand scheme of things I have it much better then some. A++ in my opinion. You'd be at a loss not to at least check him out if you need work done.

Mate, you weren't there for me. You had previously stated that you would be there by coincidence on other business so don't make out that it was me that asked you to be there and I left you standing there with nothing to do. Where you were was actually nowhere at all near where I live and I had said I was happy to meet you whenever, wherever so just because I didn't make it there on the morning didn't mean I couldn't make whatever journey necessary to meet you. I have a car with free petrol so it really wouldn't of bothered me. What seems more likely to me is that one of your mates decided he wanted to buy it, so you decided you'd renege on the deal we had made and use this as an excuse.

all the BP's around me have run out of ultimate and ive been using caltex 98 RON for the past week or more. They have started to run out of 91 octane now as well and the general public has been using 95/98 so I dont know how long that'll last I have to say, ive seen no noticeable difference performance wise between the two, however the first night I put it in, I saw that the price at the BP was 108.9 for ultimate (the last one in my area to have ultimate, the other two had run out) so I drove down the road and paid 99.9 c/L for vortex 98, a considerable difference.