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Everything posted by ian
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The more I read about that jaycar unit, the more it looks like a good idea... 2 questions - what stagea do you have (year, type) ? And would you like to post EXACTLY what you did with the diode, as that would help none 'electronic type' car owners do the same? Ian
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I agree entirely, but only one person has posted an abusive post (and it was completely uncalled for), the one above yours just used sarcasm in reply..To be honest, quite good sarcasm. :-) And that abusive post didn't need to be, we would (I suspect) all be absolutely delighted to have anyone show us where the numbers discussed were wrong, and to point to where cheap good series 2 manuals could be purchased! I certainly would be! Generally, being abusive normally convinces people of the exact opposite to what you are trying to convince them of.... Ian
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You obviously don't understand multi dimension hyperspace inverted time/price atomic car supply methods... :-)
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I agree, at LEAST 1.5M. In practice, it's not often that you get one with that few a kms. I saw one a few weeks ago, (in japan) that was a 2002, AUTO with 37k Kms - just over 2M yen.. For a 2000 model AUTO with 44K kms - passed in at 1.2M, or another AUTO, 1999, 37k kms - passed in 1.45M, or a 2000 MANUAL with 43K kms - yes, 'like' the one in QLD - passed in for 1.64M (and that's not FOB). Taking that last one, IF (IF!) it had sold for what it passed in at, it would be $33K in Aus, without a local agent fee or profit margin!!!! When something looks too good to be true, ......
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Valid point about the space savers!!! And look at the front seats!!!!! At the moment not many places can DO compliance for the stageas, and the dealer that has the car at the top of the post isn't one of them.... SO they would have to pay to have it done!!! As to DRIFTT's comment, lower Km's would have added 300K yen (at least), which would still have brought it up to $30K - with NO agent fee or yard profit!!!!!!! ie just not possible... So even given an excellent bargain like the one he mentioned (which are very very rare) you STILL couldn't sell it in a yard for $30K!!!!!!!! Looking at the pictures again, ie the rear wheels, front seat condition etc etc etc.. I suspect add 100K km's and some pretty rough treatment, if not accident, to the car at the top of the post. I'll stand corrected if someone wants to post it's auction sheet - as DRIFT says, most dealers want to not display them. If I was buying a car already in the country, I would demand to see the original auction sheet... So I still don't know what planet someone was on when they were suggesting $20-$30K for a reasonable series 2 manual! If you can get a GOOD series 2 manual already here and complied for $30K, grab it!! Ian
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You have got to be kidding... Unless it was not that many Km's, or accident repair, or 'hot', or all of the above, there is NO way to do that... I've been looking at the auction results at just about all the Japanese auctions for the last month or so, and watching what all the series 2 stageas do. Most are passing in, but a number are selling. The main variables for the price are km's travelled, year, manual/auto. Manuals are always more expensive than Auto's Later years are almost always more expensive than earlier (even if they are the same model) Km's make a BIG difference to the price. So the CHEAPEST series 2's are the autos, late 1998/or 1999, and say 80K Km (the main price points for Km are low (ie 40k) medium (say 80k) and high (120k)). Assuming it is not an accident repair, and in good nick (ie grade 4) they go for a bit over 1M yen ie a few have gone in the last few weeks for 1.1M Yen At that price, the FOB (ie including Japanese broker fee) is 1.18M Y Assuming aud/yen of .81 Aus cost = $14,568 + shipping, customs, etc (say $2000) + GST + Import Duty ($3200) + compliance (including CAT for series 2) ($4000) + tires (cheap ones) $800 = $24.7K - without stamp duty etc etc. AND WITHOUT ANY AUSTRALIAN AGENTS FEE OR PROFIT MARGIN BY THE DEALER!! Agreed, a yard may or may not pay the agents fee, but they have to make a profit margin!!!! And the above was the BEST case - price would go up considerably if the KM's came down, the year moved forward, or it was a manual. The one in QLD was ALL of those things. A 2000 model would take the auction price up at least 100K yen, if not 200K yen or more - say 150K ie $27K in aus - still no profit margin or agents fee in that. The low KM's advertised would probably add at least 200K Yen, possibly 400K yen + Assuming the mid figure (300k) the price in Aus is now $31.4 Going to manual as WELL as the above, would push it up at least a few 100K yen. While the manuals aren't unknown, there is literally only a handful each week ( series 2) selling in the Japanese Auction system. Say it adds 200K yen, that brings the price in aus to $34.4K - with no profit or agents fee! So you couldn't sell it in a yard for 30K unless you were making a loss!!! In reality, I suspect it could have more KM's - say 80K kms - that would make aus price $29.9K Still not enough for a profit margin... The year and the transmission can't be faked (assuming someone checks the vin in FAST) so the next suspect is the auction grade. If it is an accident repair, it could easily lose another 400K yen, bringing it's cost in Aus down to $23.9K - thus there would be a profit margin of $6k.. Now that sounds feasible... I no, I'm not making these numbers up! I bid today on a few - and one I was very interested in was a 2000 series 2 stagea with 80K kms, auction grade 4. It passed in for 1.3M yen (ie 1.4m FOB) ie $27.6K in Australia (without the local agents fee, which would take it to $28.7K - and that's doing all the import work myself!) I didn't buy it as it would have required a bit of aftermarket work due to some mods, and I was bidding on another one almost simultaneously.. If you can do much better than the prices above, start bringing them in and selling them!!! Ian ps yes, I know, I'm a bit over the top on research.....
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I agree. And not just that, I've been watching the prices in Japan, and there is NO WAY they could be selling a series 2 manual stagea with that many kms for that price if it was a reasonable auction grade. I suspect it either must be an accident repair job, or the clock has been wound back, or both. Anybody buying it should ask to see the original Auction sheet (as everybody buying a car already in the country should do for any car!!)
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Hmm, if I'm doing 2.2K RPM going up a hill and floor it, being in 4th is not where I want to be! Surely you would have dropped it down to 3rd.. :-)
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I'm a bit surprised that people can hear the turbo whine! I certainly can't hear mine in my R34 GTT Neo based car! Even with the foot flat to the floor, and boost gauge at the top, you certainly can't hear the turbo over the top of the nicely reving engine! Ian
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Don't forget to do that! I think a lot of people want to know how you go.. I just improved the fuel economy of my R34 GTT by changing the plugs and redoing the timing... Made a big difference... :-) Ian
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Only found that other stuff after I had posted above :-) Is it the R34 GTT stuff (I know the engine is) or the R33 stuff?? Particuarly the brakes - as other posts have complained that they aren't as good (that series one has worse brakes than the R33 GTT) - did they change that in series 2 ie put the full r34 GTT brakes and SUPER hicas on? Does it have the R34 GTT intercooler or the R33 GTT one? Ian
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thanx, I'm adding stuff to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...208#post1365208 every time smeone posts.. :-) and in flaggers one above, 3.3 had hicas, and 3.4 had 2wd, where on other screens I've seen them combined in 3.3....
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Sorry flagger, can't answer your question, but do have one of my own that I'm going to use your screen dump for. Do we know what all the fields are and their possible values? The top row is easy (vin,model) the second row is also stragiht foward (series, production,ext color, int color) - though we should start compiling a big list of color codes startung with the link in the post above! The third line has 4 fields 3.1) is the body type. 2K = 2 door coupe, W = wagon, 4S = 4 door sedan 3.2) Engine type ie rb25det 3.3) Drive system? ie 4wd, HI.2WD (does that mean hicas and 2wd? if not, what?) 3.4) model varient? ie Type-M or 25RSF (thats a stagea) Line 4 also has 4 fields 4.1) Geabox type - AT, MT, ? 4.2, 4.3, 4.4 - not used. Instead of entering the VIN number, just type the series in the 'Model Series' field (eg R33). That will allow you see all the available model variations in the drop down fields. Anybody got anything else to add?? I'll keep on editing this with more information as people post it!
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No probs, took you out of http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...660#post1324660 Though at the rate this is happening - no one will tell me where to get the ROM map from, which makes me wonder! - you'll be driving a R36 before much gets done.. Why are you getting rid of the stagea? I'm think of getting a series 2 (you're too far away, and the wife wouldn't like yellow...) and am interested in coments.. I'm assuming, but haven't been able to confirm, that the series 2 is entirely based on the r34 GTT ie brakes etc etc (as well as the neo engine which I know it has).. ?? Ian
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Model KBNR32RXFSLMZG made 89/11 color KH2 GTR HI.4WD RB26DTT manual
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We will see :-) And I disagree about the R33, they aren't anywhere near saturation! Losing the mods wasn't the same situation - as mods never seemed to be properly priced in anyway.. The R32 will always remain a special car! But without new supply, quite a few people are going to move on to something else... Ian
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Actually, I think it will have the exact opposite effect. The market for them will dry up and move on to other things ie there will be more r33 compliance places, which will bring the price down for them. So the people on this site who have been saying they agree with the changes, as it will push up the price of what they own, are going to be in for a bit of a surprise in the medium term... The best thing for prices is normally a healthy market and lot's of interest. Both of those things are going to decrease without the new supply available. Lets come back to this thread in 12 months and see if I'm right! Ian
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and is the map in english or japanese? Ian
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I looked up and got the same response :-) Where did you get the color lookup from?
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Thanxs for that, but it was the rom address descriptions that I can't find :-) Would you know where that is? Ian
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I'm trying all the combinations for you... There was a HR33 with that number (051375) which was a GTS/G with a RB20 (no turbo) (Jan 1995), and there was an ER33 with that number, which was a GTS25/s with the RB25DE (ie no turbo) (Jan 1996) Hope that helps... Ian
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done it several times - the number either side are ok ie - 051374 is a GTS25T manual, with a rb25det, 2wd,QM1 color... 051376 is exactly the same, but 051375 can not be found - so if that is a correct number, it may not be a ECR33 ?? Ian