ian

Cancel that question!! I found it on the front page - and boy is the default one better!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I recommend everyone change to it!!!Ian.

Hi Christian - I suspect you are busy! Is the 'stock' style something we have to pick (I couldn't find anything in the control panel) or is that what we are using? If you need help testing styles etc, I'm happy to help. Ian ps As a rough rule of thumb, just about no web site works with a very dark background as the contrast with most colors - except white and yellow - doesn't work, with green and blue particularly bad...

I'm trying it again this morning - with the pages expanded in size (firefox - control key and wheel mouse will do that). It then is big enough to read, but the colors are still doing their best to make it unreadable... So it's not the new forum software that is the 'problem' - it's the color/font scheme! Please change it!!!!!!

The new fonts look good, but the color of the new board makes many things difficult or impossible to read... I've checked the configuration we can change, and it doesn't seem that we can change the color scheme - and even if we could it would probably mean we would write posts that others couldn't read... Just look through a few posts, too many people in the past have used a color close to the new background one, so they are now unreadable.... I might be the only one having problems, in which case I'll do a local hack to change the colors on the fly... Ian

hmm, you must be sending your car through hyperspace, cause there sure ain't anything within driving distance of melbourne (that you are supposed to have a car in!) that goes down to -20.. Just add some anti freeze to the radiator. It wouldn't matter at all which one, so I'd be getting something from repco. Ian

Not a problem, expect a few more S2 pics soon.. That's my cars gearstick, it's just the car isn't to its new home yet (chugging down the long path from Japan) so I can't get you a better one at the moment.. Ian

The other thing to do is to reset the ecu and see if that helps.

Good link - and I also found in the nissan service data (for my r34) that - - it should be tightend to 40-60 (n-m) or 4.1-6.1 kg-m, - the bottom (after warm up) should be between 0.1 and 0.4 V - the top should be between 0.7v an 0.9v - at idle it should be high for approx 3 seconds, then low for a second. - at 2000 rpm it should be alternating high/low at about a second each. And you can check all that on pin 50 on the ecu (in a R34). Edit: and as I posted in the stage O2 thread, I went and got one at repco yesterday - they are having a 20% off sale, so it was only $86.40 for the NTK one :-)

I don't think a S2 manual one will work - the hand brake looks to be in a different position -

I went to repco and got the same one this morning - they have a 20% sale on at the moment, so it was $86.40. It is identical (ie same color wires and everything) to the current one being used... sure, spend an extra hundred dollars to get one from nissan if you want to... Ian

Use scanner! Post!Ian

The full big thread on the o2 sensors is at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43095 I'm about to do mine (in my R34) and I'm going to do the one in the wifes stagea as soon as it gets here... The nissan owners manual is quite clear - replace them every 40,000Kms!!! Ian

type the VIN into nissan FAST and it will tell you...

Agreed, and see my main coment in that post ie http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...987&postcount=6 In addition, even if you wanted one of those, you'd get it much cheaper from Japan.

Of course it's raining - it's your summer time! Wait a second, it rains in winter too!Just joking, though I always found it strange (when I lived in London) that people were complaining about how hot it was when it (rarely) got into the high 20's! :-) Ian

I assume this is the DFA - looking at the board there were two 10ohm resistors in the power supply section (bottom left hand corner of the board) - I assume you have both of them on the board?

I still think you are getting things back to front - there is NO need to close a thread that started as a 'for sale' in the general stagea area (instead of in the 'for sale' section where it belongs) if it wanders off the 'for sale' topic. ie Sure, move it or close it for being a 'for sale' in the wrong place if you really think you have to, but if it it turns in to a general chat so be it! It is after all in the general stagea chat area!!! Ian

Actually, this is technically know as wrong :-) It's an 'urban myth', that anyone who has done a lot of driving OR understands the theory knows is wrong, and was even on 'mythbusters' a while ago (shown to be completely busted). Ian

I haven't looked into what chips it uses, but I think they are in the dash (ie it isn't kept by the eco) - and they have to be electrically changeable memory as that's what it is doing. Who knows, unless someone who does it a bit wants to tell us how, but it can't be too hard or there wouldn't be so many low km cars around!

As the guys above have said, and you can find my post on at http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...73058&p=1414406 you'd be crazy not to get that one (http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/au/st...sp?StockID=3206) instantly of Geoff. I can't believe it still there at that price, as I've said before, if I hadn't already bought mine I would have bought it in 15 seconds flat... ie if you don't buy that one, you aren't looking for a yellow series 2 manual! Ian

Yep, that sounds in the right ball park. I reckon a reasonable guess is 15K to 20K a year - and anything below 10K a year is 99% likely to be a wind back. So, for a 1998 car I'd expect 7*15K = 105K for the lower range, and 140K the upper range for a car that has had low to moderate use. Indeed, my 1998 car has a genuine 110K on it, as I don't drive it every day to work etc Looking at the trading post numbers, there are many 1997 stageas '46K' plus or minus 2K, and even a 1996 one with '39K'.. So 'just under 50K' seems to be the wind back aim point. Either that or ALL those cars have been doing 8K a year!! Of course, as has been said in other posts, the KM's are normally over emphasised when someone is looking at a car. I'd much prefer a car with 140K's that was in excellent condition than one with 50K's (even if genuine) that wasn't! This is particularly relevant for the RB* engine - it was made so bloody well that it's just not going to fall apart just because the car has done a few K's! ie Someone I know recently clocked over 500K km's in his early skyline, and apart from replacing the fuel injectors about 100K ago, has never done anything apart from the regular service items…

Just having a quick look through the stageas in the trading post, and one thing that struck me pretty quickly - it must be very easy to wind back the speedo on a stagea! Most (!) of the cars are claiming lower km's than just about anything you see in Japan of the same year.... So if you're buying one, ignore the km's and have a good look at the car! Ian

hmmm, so you can post a for sale add here (were it doesn't belong) but then it shouldn't go off topic and talk about other stagea stuff (which does belong in this area).. Very strange... Not quite sure I understand the reasoning....

And things really in perspective :-) Any commodore car: Piece of junk that really should be sent back in time to the late 70's, when it would then be accepted as 'ok' R34 GTT 4 door - 206+kw, 1450kg. - 142Kw/ton VY 2003 commonwhore 3.8 v6 152kw @ 1526kg - 99.6 kw/ton R34 GTV 147kw @1430kg 102 kw/ton So yes, it is better than a commodore AND has much better brakes/steering/suspension/ etc etc etc. No argument there. But nothing like a turbo skyline! The difference between a R33 GTT 180KW, 1400kg - 128kw/ton and the R34 is very very noticable, let alone the difference between the turbo and non turbo version!

I agree it's OK fo a NA, but not for a skyline! And the Rb20det is normally in a much (by several 100kg's) lighter car...