BHDave

Sure, but you may not like what i tell you.

lol On a well organised day (as the autosport ones are), you can get all 10 cars out on the track before the first guy out is all the way around. So you tend to get 6-7 flying laps in, which is plenty for most cars as they tend to overheat something if left out for much longer

aim higher! I need to drop another second to get my 1:09.95. It has eluded me for the last 2 track days!

lol. You should step up liz

Thats dumhed's job. He does it to most of us regularly. I think he was doing consistant low 13's on saturday with a passenger in the car on nankangs

lol, don't forget the defect laws Personally, i have no interest in racing off the lights or burn outs. I don't mind a spirited drive but since starting to go to the track regularly i haven't felt the urge all that often, and even then, the car is broken from the track outing so i can't

It seems a lot better thought out than Iemma's last proposal. To be honest, I'm all for it.

get a set of r33 or s14 stock LCA's. They are 10mm longer and will be much cheaper.

Hi guys, I'm after an idle air control valve for an s1 r33 RB25det can pick up if in sydney, but will take it if you are interstate and don't mind posting it. cheers Dave

If there's no spark and the problem stays with cylinder 3 despite swapping coils about then i think you are right that it's a wiring problem. (assuming you have no igniter based on your car being an s2) The last thing to check before delving into wiring is the spark plug. Swap it with another one to be sure As far as the wiring goes, all coils have a common power, a common earth and an individual trigger. So you have determined you have no power to the coil, i assume by searching for 12V? just as a check before stripping back the loom, check for continuity from the power plug to all of the coil plugs. If 3 shows nothing then you just need to strip that section back and find the break in the wire.

The rack end is able to be swapped and it is a much easier job than replacing the entire rack Removal of the LCA isn't that hard either. Getting the ball joint out of the hub can be difficult if you need to keep it. If you don't, then just buy one of the cheap ball joint remover tools from repco or supercheap and bash it out.

It'll probably work out cheaper to get ikeya formula strengthened tie rod ends from nengun or perfect run. It's worth a look.

On a big short like that you will probably have killed your main fusable link. No idea where they are located in a 33 but it will be in the main fuse box somewhere.

The hpiab ones will be a 2871 with a reground nissan IW housing (as metioned in dales thread). The genuine article is a better option, but ultimately it comes down to what you want to pay. The nengun price is ex GST and Duty. You are running the gammit of customs and potentially will be stung for an extra 2-300 if you get caught.

I have to ask, which line of coilovers gets the spring rates changed? I ask because i bought a set of local superstreets and they had the same spring rates as their japanese counterparts. I beleive they revalve, but this then raises the question of why? Is it that far wrong on the japanese version considering the spring rates are the same? There are different levels of japanese coilovers, i agree. The RA's that michael has are a very good unit with a very good damper. You can argue that the spring rates are high, and i will probably agree. I don't know that a skyline with 10kg/mm fronts could brake well into turn 10 at wakefield with all the ripples in the braking zone. But it's getting resheeted next month so that should improve.... But on the other hand i know that Racepace likes to play with the RA's and they set up a few of the quick Victorians cars... At the end of the day, there's more than one way to skin a cat. SK likes to do it one way. It's the Colin Chapman school of thought isn't it? The japanese guys like to do it another, i assume because their tracks are in better condition than ours otherwise they would have to approach it differently. There are a few members on this forum who regularly do track work who persist with higher spring rates and haven't joined the arguement. I'd be interested to hear their thoughts and experiences.

prices dropped

2.5bar base pressure is stock. so with the vac line off your fuel pressure should be 2.5 bar and less once you hook the vac line back up. Higher pressure won't be doing anything for you, as the stock ecu will be dumping in extra fuel with extra boost anyway.

The pull is due to the caster difference. If you don't have aftermarket arms that are way out of adjustment, then you have a shot caster rod bush on one side atleast and should get them replaced. as noted above, you cant adjust either caster or camber (on the front) from factory and they aren't that far out from factory. To be honest even the dumbest alignment guy should have noticed a caster difference like that and pointed out that there is a problem. And i disagree with ryan re the different settings side to side. From a performance point of view it is the wrong approach, from a tyre wear point of view it is great on a freeway where the old 3% crossfall mind set is still in force, but on most new local roads it isn't relevant anymore either.

Any true drifter could pick that car as a narc! look at those ugly heavy rims. Where's the dish? and sorry but offset fail.

I haven't used the 615 but i expect they are very similar. Whichever one is cheaper in your size is the way to go. Just note that the 225/45 17 federal is a bit heavier than the rest if you are looking at that size. It has a higher load rating but i have no idea why

Just throwing out stupid ideas 1 and 2 for the day; Your exhaust isn't resting against the box by any chance? You still have the heat sheild around the cat and your cruise mixtures are ok and not lean (causing excessive exhaust temp)? Where does the gearstick sit in relation to the transfer case in a gtr? Could the problem be in the transfer case? is the attessa constantly slipping in regular driving? same size wheels front and rear?

lol, Just out of interest; what prompted you to hand over the keys to the guy behind the desk when he had a vase full of turbo wheels sitting next to him? i don't think it's yavuz either, evil. He doesn't have a desk or a vase

beats me. I kinda like these threads every now and then though. You could change the heading to "R32 Gtst Owners turn on GTST"

Its your call. I'm offering my advice based on my experience. I can't get power down in 3rd out of turn 1 at wakefield on my out lap without having to grab a handful of opposite lock and getting off the gas on re55s. Yet i can happily stand on it if i am running my rt215's in the same situation and it just hooks up and goes with a tiny bit of oversteer, even my nankangs felt better when cold. Mine aren't the hard compound either and they are only 3 track days old. I've driven old rooted semis on the street in the past and thought they were fantastic. But they are no better than the federal/falken combo i have now, and a hell of a lot scarier in the wet. quick edit: something else worth considering as well. when a cold semi slick lets go, it goes in a big way. It's not progressive like a street tyre, it's sudden and you need to be quick to catch it. once it warm it's a different story.

I haven't used the toyos but as another R comp tyre i'd expect them to behave in the same way as the re55's. Consider that it takes me 2 laps of wakefield before the r comps are at their best, so thats 4+ km's of hard cornering. Much harder than i'd consider even remotely safe on the street. I use the federals on the front and have rt215's on the back as my street tyres. I think the federals are a better all round tyre. The wet grip is pretty good which can't really be said for the 215's. I haven't tried a 615 yet.