BHDave

They will be rubbish when cold, noisy as hell, have lower tread depth than a more street oriented tyre when new, pretty ordinary in the wet, transmit all the road bumps and are rather expensive for a tyre that might last you 5000kms. Stick with a more road oriented semi like the 595RS or RT215/615 and save your r compound tyres for the track

If it's the diaphram then you have a reasonable case for a warranty job as i'd class that as a material failure as opposed to a failure due to abuse. Obviously depending on whether it was installed correctly blah blah blah, you know the drill. So was it bought from and installed by the same place? That would make it a lot easier.

I agree. I don't doubt that the big core is capable of dropping the temp considerably, but unfortunately the ambient air cannot cool something to less that it's own temperature.

Hi all, Due to the constant evolution of my car i have some after market bits to get rid of. I'd prefer local pick up but can arrange freight at buyers expense Item: Bride Ergo Recliner including rail Age: Unknown Condition: Average to good. Has the usual hole in the RHS bolster and some wear on the RHS stitching in the side support. Both pictured. Price: SOLD To Fit: R32/33 A31. Was fitted to an R32gtst Location: Campbelltown NSW Contact: via pm Item: SSR indy 500 wheels 17x8.5 +36 front 17x9.5 +35 rear Age: Unknown Condition: good. One rear in VGC as it has been repaired recently, the others are in generally good condition but could use a good clean. Some minor rash, one wheel has a small dent in the rim. Pics attached Price:Sold!! To Fit: Anything with 5x114.3 pcd, though offset will play a part Location: Campbelltown NSW Contact: via pm Comments: The stated offset for these wheels is based on a 15mm slip on spacer that bolts to the back of the hub (which i will supply with the wheels). So you can get longer studs all round, or you can run bolt on spacers like i did. I ran a 20mm spacer up front on my 32gtst with stock guards to give an effective offset of +31 and a 20mm on the rear with a slight flare to give a +30 offset. I'd imagine these would easily fit under an r33gtst and probably under an r34

check your alignment. Check your rear tie rods and outer ball joints for play. Hicas is locked?

definitely the fact that i looked it up.

Doesn't the fact that we know there are suckers make us more opportunist than dreamer? Despite being a little slow i feel the need to retort to some earlier posts and

mine had that luckily the nismo center also has the larger holes to suit

just throwing this out there, but how would you go adjusting toe with different front and rear track or with different front and rear offset wheels? The units pictured look to mount at the center of the wheel so it's a no go measuring across the car so wouldn't you have to depend on the the alignment between the front and rear wheels?

yep. abs housing is a bit longer and has a plug up on the snout. Output shafts may need to be swapped between the diffs as some s13's have a different output flange but thats no biggie as your r32 ones will fit and you'll have it all apart anyway.

yes. you can do it that way. You will need to swap the back cover and ensure it is/isn't abs to match your current housing.

Absolutely. Even if i strip my car back to stock (well almost stock as i'd have to buy a new engine to make it stock) i will still lose a packet as i have lost money when i upgrade the mods i had done previously. I've gone through 3 sets of suspension as my goals have changed, I re bushed the entire suspension, then went adjustable upper arms front and rear as the bushes didn't give enough adjustment, I'm on my second after market turbo setup (so manifolds, dump pipes, lines etc all changed), 3rd exhaust. I'm up to my 4th set of wheels, though i have all 4sets lying around still as i am yet to post some up for sale and some are now track rims i reckon including purchase and factoring in the loss on parts sold off my r32 owes me close to 60k, though it certainly doesn't look it That doesn't include close to 9k in insurance costs over the past 5 years either....

I want to turn water into wine. but seeing as that water's pretty dirty it might make better beer

jesus does the best skidz......so no, thats not jesus.

of course we are! And seeing as my r32 has the rb25 engine and box it must be worth atleast 18k.....lol

Too many still shots of pretty cars. Here's an action shot of my ugly one

when it's dead confirm that you are getting power to the coils. You've swapped ignitors so thats ruled out, check the eccs and ign relays, though it's more than likely the ign one if you still have injectors firing. the tacho dropping to nothing has me beat as it's based on the ecu output which i assume comes from the cas signal. I've had it happen in an old single coil setup before when the pick up died, but i don't know how it would cross over into a more modern setup.

no, it's a f**king stupid idea. I'm guessing it's the upright that attaches to the top of the hub and the upper control arm and the tyre is flexing on hard cornering. Which means your wheels must have a shocking offset in order to 1) fit 245's without scrubbing on the guard and 2) sit the tyre in close enough to the upright to give problems on turning. If it's the bit i'm thinking of then i don't recommend it. Though to be honest i dont think you could do more than dent it as it's a pretty beefy unit. roll guards, flatten seams, remove inner guards, go for it. don't go anywhere near the arms, hub or uprights with a hammer

I'd ask maltech direct as i have seen versions that go direct from master to slave and others that only replace the rubber hose. As for repairs, how dodgy do you want to be, how quick do you need it back and how far do you have to go? 10minute araldite on the pipe over the hole, a little bit of aluminium sheet over the araldite and cable tie it on tight enough to squeeze the araldite out the edges of the sheet. Then give it an hour or so to set bleed the lines and you should get home. If araldite doesn't get eaten by brake fluid it may just last forever.....

dude! Your picture up top is the rear bushes. You are ripping out the fronts which is a completely different process! And different size bushes too. There's a collar that you just smack with a hammer and a chisel (or screwdriver) It takes the whole bush out as a unit. They are the easiest bush to remove of all the suspension bushes. You can see the collar in your photo above my last post.

Whiteline stock a few. A mate got some that were pretty close and just trimmed them and had them pressed in.

start off by looking for people in Melbourne who are wrecking r33's in the for sale section, then work your way up to retailers.

which arm is that? and what car? Because that bush is nothing like what i have seen, and i have replaced every single bush on my r32

you can push the bar to the side slightly (i'm assuming it's the bit that goes up over the exhaust as mine was a bit tight too). It will likely mean that the links aren't square to the bar but that isn't as important as maintaining clearance to the diff/tailshaft flange.

I managed to fit them under r32 gtst rims but i had to shave some material off the caliper to do it. There was absolutely no clearance between the caliper and the spokes or the outside. What is the issue with the current setup anyway? fade? soggy pedal? Lines will help, as will a master cylinder brace. What pads and fluid are you running?