BHDave

The one shown in the picture is definately from an rb26 ta45 kit. (nice crack btw) The rb20/25 specific models seem to have a wider flange specifically to allow either a t3 or t4 turbine housing to be used. What i don't know is if the size of the outlet from the manifold is bigger on the t4 ones.

Thanks mate, I appreciate you taking the time to check it for me. I have checked mine at 2 separate times. It came in around 2 ohms on a hot day and about 1.7 last night. It may be the cable thats stuffed as it's about 8 ohms at the end where it plugs into the unit. hmm, time to make a new cable and see what happens. Cheers Dave

That looks like the one. Could you do me a favor and check the resistance of the thermocouple? I think mine's borked as the gauge goes to max temp when i press the on off switch with it connected, but goes to zero with it unplugged.

Can anyone tell me what the resistance of the sensor is cold? I'm hunting a problem at the moment and i'm leaning towards either dead sensor or damaged loom as i've checked everything else. cheers Dave

I can confirm that the aus r32 rates are 4/4. Same as the Jap spec ones.

The instructions on the greddy site are for a different type of gauge to what i have. They have the peak hold adjustment on the gauge itself, mine has it on the under dash bit. Mine has 3 wires to be hooked in, red and black which are power and earth and white (i think) which is lights. There are other greddy gauges with 4 wires where red is battery power and orange is switched ignition with black and white the same as above.

Hi guys, I've got a Greddy egt that i picked up second hand recently. It's the model with the separate module that sits under the dash and a fairly hefty flying loom to the back of the gauge. I've had a look for instruction manuals but haven't been able to find one for this model of gauge. I have hooked it up correctly so that i can set the peak hold temp using the small pot on the under dash module , the peak hold light turns on and off when i push the button on the gauge and i have the back light working correctly but can't figure out how to get it into real time mode. When i push the on/off button on the module it will either sit at the peak hold value when on or sit at the max temp when off. When i turn the car off it will drop back to zero. The check light stays on whether its on or off with the ignition on. Does anyone have a link to the right manual or can tell me how to work it. I suspect the sensor is either stuffed or there is a break in the signal wire. I have tried a second module and gauge with the same results so can rule out that section as being faulty. Please help! Cheers, Dave

No seat removal in r32's, just boot trim. 3 nuts per coil over, 2 at the tops, 1 and the bottoms. Very easy job.

I'd say incorrect diff ratio entered or something like that

Whats the inside of the timing cover look like? Having the belt ride forward on the cam pulleys is a bit strange if the guide is installed correctly at the bottom. Is there anything else that may have rubbed through the belt? Was it over tensioned? Cam seals don't look too healthy, whether it's the seal itself or the seal on the front cam cap is yet to be seen. For it to dump 2L of oil out in the driveway points more towards a seal on the bottom of the engine though.

But you haven't considered the cams or r34 type vct which make a fairly massive difference. Thats some pretty good response on the turbo though. With decent boost control it'll be all in by 3500rpm and on a turbo capable of high 200rwkw thats pretty damn good. I'd expect it's all in by low 3's on the street though? As you can't run silly boost levels due to the high comp i think a step up in exhaust housing could be beneficial, but i'd look at some 264 cams to improve the breathing of the engine before that.

I like! Makes for a good comparison tool. It's interesting to see the response difference between my old slug t300s and Bob's gcg highflow. If you could plot boost it would be interesting

The 17c is a bit of an old lump. The G series comp wheel is a better choice. If you want to go a bit smaller than a tdo6 20g then why not a TD05 18G?

the 2860r is just about the same size as a hks2530 or 2510 based on wheel sizes. If you check the trim on the 2860 and do a comparison here http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...Flanguage_tools you should be able to widen your search and compare to cars running these turbos. There a few guys running 2510's and 2530's on the forum.

mine did. I've yet to have a problem with about 5k on the clock since install. I run the 256 8.8 inlet to maintain VCT and the 264 on the exhaust side.

dump the coolant, you can leave the oil. Remove the lines at either the block or the turbo, where ever is easiest. One of the water fittings will have to be at the turbo, the other water and oil line you can get to fairly easily from under the car. Get them on the block if you have braided or flexible lines.

In short, you need: r32 pinout diagram and engine loom, r33 pinout, wiring diagram and engine loom, multimeter, stanley knife, masking tape and a pen. trace and label all the wires running to the under dash plug on the r33 loom, then chop off the plug. trace and label all the wires running to the under dash plugs on the r32 loom as well as the main power plug in the front corner of the engine bay, then flog these plugs off the loom and transfer them onto the r33 loom. Once you start labelling you will see the sense in what i'm saying. Remove the wiper plug and box thingy from the r33 loom and splice the r32 wiper plug into the r33 loom (it's easy when you get it stripped out of the loom and look at it). Strip the knock sensors out of the r33 body loom and use the r32 one on the rb25. It saves problems with hooking into the r32 fuse box later. And then you have the assorted odd wires left dangling which generally require switched power like the air con idle up solenoid which can be wired in with a relay to trigger off the AC on wire, and the VCT solenoid which just needs a switched ignition source. You may need to wire in the r32 dropping resistor for fuel pump speed depending on which version of the r32 loom you have as well as a temp sensor for the climate control. I can't think of anything else off the top of my head. I'm colour blind so don't know colours either, hence the fun of tracing. If you haven't done wiring before but can read basic circuit diagrams allow a good day and be patient. I tried to find a pic of a partially complete s14-s13 loom i did recently to give you an idea of the mess you should expect but i think i deleted it in disgust Good luck Edit: oops, you also need a soldering iron, solder and electrical tape plus an extra relay and crimp on terminals.

The 264 exhaust will fit a 25det head. If you can confirm no difference between the top side of the 2 heads then you're sweet.

For the bolts i just took an r32 caliper bolt for length and the r34 caliper for a sample to get the right diameter/pitch bolt. Shame the place i used to get all this shit has closed, damnit! Then measured the bolt to get the right size drill bit. though 18 does ring a bell.

The backing plates are untouched on my car. The fit was perfect. I did the dodgy method and drilled on the car. It took 2 people to hold it all steady and drill it though.

I've done it. As roy said all you need to do is drill out the holes. I've had r34gtt brakes on my r32gtst for a good 3 years now with no problems. You're only increasing the size of the hole by 2mm, 16mm-18mm from memory.

pull the spark plugs out and make sure you haven't got a leaky injector causing it to hydro lock edit. thought you said it wouldn't crank? still worth looking at the plugs for fouling

My old 80mm catback with proper mid muffler and enormous rear muffler came in at 92dB at 4k. This was with a 3inch dump/front pipe and regular old ceramic 3 inch cat and highflow turbo. I reckon the stock turbo would have dropped it a touch more as there was a noticable increase in exhaust noise after i went highflow

The gcg one looks to come with all the fittings you need. The last set of hks ones i installed used a standard size banjo fitting for the block end of the lines. The exhaust studs are an m8 1.25 pitch 50mm long from memory. Try auto one. They usually have a box of exhaust studs under the front desk.

Did it cut out before you installed the catch can? How have you plumbed it in? Did you generally lose alot of oil before installing the can?