BHDave

Sorry, I ment as in all 4 bushes used on the car will be the same size but there are 2 possible sizes, a 33 and a 30.5 OD. All 4 are sold together.

fyi, there are 2 different possible rear lower control arm bushes one is 33mm and one 30.5mm OD so check before ordering. Noltec have both types.

unplug the aac valve and see if the idle stabilizes. If it stalls adjust the idle screw until it will idle. Check for vacuum leaks (insert usual atmo bov/loose spring question here). You could just have a faulty aac valve. By disconnecting power it cannot increase or reduce the amount of air the engine can breath. If the idle still hunts then it's something else, if it stabilizes then it's the valve.

cheapy front mount self install $400 or so, second hand ebc (old blitz dsbc would be my choice) self install under $300 or so, safc installed and quick and dirty tune should soak up the rest of the 1k.

On the rears I have noltec adjustable outer bushes with non adjustable inners.

Wheels will fit, don't try to run more than a 245 or risk scrubbage. If you are going to get adjustable arms and stand the wheels back up straight then you have no chance of getting a 255 in there without lipping the guard. fyi, i ran a 17x9 +35 rear on my r32 and i could fit a 235 easily before lipping and camber kit. I straightened the wheel up to about -2 camber and i had to lip the guard to avoid scrubbing. You have an extra few mm to play with as yours are +38s so i'd say 245 max.

Because it's a common power, not a common earth? So i'm assuming your injectors have no power maybe? Except your test light says you have power. You wouldn't have spark if the cas was the wrong one, though there are some differences between early rb25 and rb20 ones i think you have gotten lucky maybe. Anyone know if the rb25de injectors are high of low impedance? 20 are high. 25 may be low and popped something. easy enough to measure on the car with a multimeter. Check that the injector ground wire at the ecu is earthed. Can't find my pinout diagram so can't tell you the pin off the top of my head. check for error codes check fuses and wiring back to the ecu, jury rig a positive off the battery directly to the common power wire for the injectors to ensure you have power.

You have to remove the spring and tap the seat up the shock body to expose the circlip. Then just move the circlip down and reset the seat. You may be able to get away with just compressing the spring on the car without removing it completely but i expect it will be the harder option.

I trial fitted some r33 fronts in my 32 and they fit but were a bit long so i'd say yes the front's fit but if they are non adjustable then the fron may sit a bit low. The rears dont as the r33 strut is significantly longer than the 32

The only potential issue i can see is the inner rear rim fouling on the end of the tie rod end cover. Not a major issue as it can be removed with no consequence to give an extra bit of clearance. I have about 5mm clearance to the cap with 17x9 +35, so a +40 will be borderline.

Sounds like you have the shorter of the 2 bolts (25mm) installed but it's missing the 50mm long one and the lock nut that goes in the front as djr81 said. The kit is designed so that the 50mm long bolt bottoms out and so turning that turns the crush tube, then tighten up the lock nut and short back bolt to hold it in place. There should be a spring washer under the bolt head/lock nut too. 12mm thread sounds about right, i have a feeling it's 1.25 pitch aswell. I think r33 racer is thinking of the stock arrangement with a single bolt that goes right through the bush, rather than the Nolathane version with a bolt at either end.

There's no reason your engine won't make 200k if you leave it as is. Do your 100k service, swap the water pump while you're in there and drive happily. My old rb20 just got a bit tired in the end at close to 180k and i'd given it a fair old flogging over the 80k i owned it. It was far from stock at that stage. The only thing you should do differently is do your oil changes at 5000, rather than 7000kms

It all depends on the mods you have. a mildly modded car shouldn't have major issues running a 5 as they are the stock replacement plug. A 6 heat range plug is a good move with more boost up to about 1.1bar/16psi. bcpr6es/bkr6es is .8 copper out of the box, bcpr6e or bk.. is the v groove option. A 7 over that up to low 20psi I'd start with a 6 bcpr6es as they are cheap enough. If no good then make a few enquiries about the nismo plugs and try a copper 7.

You can always try koyo drift teks, they are pretty much identical but come in 8 and 9inch sizes to suit silvias and gtst's. i think they are 8 +30 and 9 +35 aswell as a 9.5 +25. I don't know if they come in 18 though as i've never been interested in anything bigger than 17.

As michael said, if you get a full rb25 specific kit you can bolt the whole thing up and have it running in under a day easily if you have a separate dump/front pipe already. If it's only the turbo you will need a new dump pipe, turbo outlet adapter piece to mate up to the stock pipe and an inlet pipe to suit the 4 inch bellmouth. oil/water lines need to be changed too and the studs on the manifold will be too long and need to be swapped over or shortened. I'm fairly certain the oil return pipe flange is a t2 rather than the larger t3 size used on the stock turbo aswell, though the pipe diameter is the same (19mm rings a bell?).

You can install the shims without going into check mode but it means that you have to undo both sides of the rack. It's a bit of a pain in the arse way of doing it, but when your hicas is already stuffed the bastard just doesn't want to play (atleast mine didn't) You have to remove one tie rod completely to get enough of a grip on the rack itself to crack the other side. Then you can just back that one off a bit, slip in the shim, tighten it up, and then put the other shim on before refitting the tie rod.

The fact that you can solve the problem by turning the car off and back on again points squarely at the factory solenoid or the wiring to it as it is the only component in the system that can directly effect boost that is also electrical. But that said, the solenoid is controlled by the ecu so that may be doing something silly. As a first step i'd unplug the factory solenoid and see if the car still gets doughy after 15-20 minutes. It'll probably only make 8psi with the solenoid disconnected but you will see if the boost drop is only part of the problem or the ecu is doing something else aswell like pull timing/richen up mixtures.

If your cruise mixtures are all rich then possibly look at getting a stock ecu fitted or even a new 02 sensor. If the car is tuned properly it should not run rich everywhere. The idea that you have more fuel in than needed at a specific load point because it is tuned for more boost is ridiculous, as when you add more boost the ecu will be looking up a different point in the map (which i suspect will also be a bit on the rich side).

Thats interesting... Am i the only one with h1's in an r32gtst?

You can get at the bulbs from behind the head light. Trouble is that the battery and stock air box can get in the way. There is a screw on large circular piece that is removed by hand, remove the plug and then a wire circlip that holds the bulb in the light assembly. For r32gtst's you can get either H1 or H3 bulbs so you are better off removing the dead one and taking it with you to a parts shop. The cars with H1's have the bulb mounted in a carrier that you also need to reuse. They are common enough bulbs, any parts place will have stock. Just don't get Narva or you'll be changing them again in a year. If you want more power you can get an aftermarket xenon kit, but its not exactly cheap.

Has the car ever been hit in the rear quarter? Mine has a similar problem but only about 5mm which is due to panel repair work.

pirtek, enzed, basically any hydraulic specialist will stock them

My adjustable front bar didn't come with links for my r32. Standard one seems to work alright, just need to to get off my arse one of these days and replace the rubber bush with some poly ones i have lying around

I'm yet to see individual bosch coils perform properly when teamed with the stock ecu/power fc and ignitor. I tried for about 6 months to get some working and ended up buyng splitfires. They were HEC617 off the top of my head but i could have the number wrong.

Aftermarket boss kits can cause problems as there is a sensor in the steering column that is rotated with the steering wheel. If the boss doesn't have the right fittings to rotate the sensor and position it correctly when the wheel is straight then the light will come on, but only if you are doing over 80kph for a couple of minutes straight.