PSI Parts

Just a few things I've learnt in regards to the dash with the R33 as I was isntalling my Racepak IQ3 Dash. - You need the hazard switch connected for the indicators to function. - There is a switch inside the original cluster that sends the control switch to the alternator (I put a 100R 1W Resistor between the two wires in order for the alternator to charge correctly, took me hours to figure this out )

Do you know the Voltage outputs of the fuel sender? Hoping its a standard 0 - 5V sender so that I can use that input into the Racepak IQ3 Dash. Wiring diagrams of that part of the car are very hard to come by.

Have you got the alternator belt tensioning bolt?

I need the alternator belt tensioning bolt, if you have it?

So much passion over a wiper haha

Just to go back to the complexity issue, I think thats a very valid point and I think that this picture of my set-up confirms what sort of work you will need if you want to stay dedicated to the twin scroll and run twin wastegates. As I've said before I run the full Race set-up with the ATP made 1.06 Rear. The casting on my turbo was quite good compared to others, so they may have fixed issues that DCIEVE brought up earlier. I haven't checked lately if they use the new GTX3582R internals, but is worth looking into if you are going down that path. More pics in my thread. If you have any questions in regard to how the setup went feel free to ask.

Still have the R33 stereo/gear surround? Does that include the ash tray?

Apparently these fit: http://www.componentforce.co.uk/product/363/DBP77/order MOQ is listed at 250, however im sure you can overcome that. I'm looking to remove mine purely because I never use it and don't want the weight.

I'll take the gear boot surround and ash tray. SMS Sent.

http://www.psiparts.com.au/detail.htm?ProductID=R33S-COOL-CF

Another update. Just received this email from the company in Sydney that produces the clear RB25 engine covers: There goes any chance for making these affordable. Once you start to get into injection moulding the costs balloon and minimum runs are in the hundreds. We will keep pursuing this, however it's looking like this project will never get off the ground. If anyone else has ideas, please share them as we are always open to opinions and ideas on products.

Don't think so. Bloody good thread though!

Chasing a set for RB25 if these are still in production.

I need the gear surround plastic and ash tray.

Sorry this is sold

No longer need this as I use a MAP sensor. It's in perfect working order. Price: $50 + postage Location: Sydney Condition: Used

For Sale : Haltech E11v2 Serial: E11 1961 I now have a Wolf V500 and no longer need the old ECU. The unit is in perfect working order and has had 1 years use. I do not have the original box, however I do have some of the documentation that came with it. Happy to post anywhere in Australia for free. Where: Waterloo NSW 2017 Price: $1100 Condition: Excellent Contact: PM or 0403 507 093 (Paid $1920 for ECU + $340 for Harness) - So grab yourself a bargain

Nope, as soon as we can sort out the details I'll post it up.

I'm a huge fan of the Racepak dahses (logging is an extra price), and if you are into video, combine with TrackVision software. http://racepak.com/Components/IQ3_Display.php

Another quick update, after trying unsucessfully with several different Chineses factories, we have decided to return the lenses back to Australia and get them done at the same place where the clear engine covers are manufactured (Sydney Company), so that we can have complete control over the process and get the desired result for you all. We would like to thank you all for your patience in regard to this project, as we could not forsee the time blow-out, ridiculous quoting and time turn-around from overseas companies.

From my experience there is no easy solution to this. Rubbing back is probably the preferred option as you can control the pressure very easily. This is normally quite easy for an experienced body shop, just like re-clearing any gel coat that has started to bubble or degrade from UV exposure. If the parts where the paint is starting to come off are only in certain sections, I would maybe look at only uncovering part of the paint so that you have sections of carbon coming through the paint.

They are the same, I bought set of GTR rear seats and interior panels because ours were damaged and put it in our demo car, which is a GTS.

Interested in how they actually operate, as we looked at modifying the Tein's for the GTR to suit GTS however there was no room in the Fenders for them to sit when the bonnet was down. I have seen some struts use a metal/packaging band around them to reduce their size for shipping, this could be done to achieve the effect you want, however you just need to make sure the band is offset to allow the ball into the circlip recess.

Just another update. After much deliberation with an international company to try and get the best possible price for you guys, I was astounded when we received a quote for the mold at $10,000USD. Needless to say that we are now trying to find another company again. It seems that this project is simple in my head, however getting the right people at the right price seems to be a lot harder than I ever imagined.

Should be in, pending work commitments. Not bad to make my debut at the last round haha