700HP-GTR33

Crank pressure increase and worn dip stick seals almost always contribute to this. You can get a catch can to help your top end but there is nothing you can do about crank pressure. Renew your dip stick or have it like mine..tide down with wire.

LOL You were quick on this...does it still hurt?

+1 If you plan a Turbo upgrade latter....and have to change the IC.....go larger. This is what I have http://www.nengun.com/arc/intercooler-standard-position

In my opinion........ A larger cooler....decreases air temp. and thus feeding colder air into the chamber. The colder the temp. the better the the explosion and the greater the power. There are 3 things you can do on a GTR to unlock its power...and they are all about air-flow. Increase intake pipe sizes to the inter-cooler...increase inter-cooler size.....and last increase exhaust size/including cat. These three on a power to $ ratio increase the power more than any other mod. Most GTR's that are imported to Australia already have these three changed...so you cannot overlook this. Yes I agree with many.....in saying the GTR's FMIC is great as it is. But you cannot overlook my statement. If you are changing the cooler....go larger. There are plenty on the market that bolt directly up.

It beats all rivals..in the US and Europe...it is even named best super car in some magazines.... It has no(not today anyway)opposition and has created its own category I would like one for my garage..... Yeah"but its ugly" ????? I like the looks and really "Who gives a F#$k" wanker

Not 100% sure...depends on how badly the plugs have been burn't. It would be trial and error until you got it spot on and saw no plug burn. Anyway..........the answer to your question.......to make what power you need and can possibly use an after market plenum is just going to waste money.......but as I alway say......you will at least have bragging rights.....

+1 My tuner after seeing two of my spark plugs were nearly burn't out on the tips increased fuel to both these cylinders. 6 was increased the most. Stick to your standard plenum and fuel rail.....

That was great reading The only thing sucked was the prices he was quoting on all the cars. We are getting D$%K%D in Australia. I mean HSV...$80K Aus.....M3....$75K in America....lol...I know which I would buy. Whats an M3 in Australia...$180K

I think you may have over fueling....a cat that is stuffed...or you are in need of new Turbo's. Could be all But you would be a colourfull sight as you drove past...... Own private track you say........ Where do I get one of them.......? As for my question of what speed you are doing........ When I rev out 2nd to 7000 and follow it with a rev out of 3rd to 7000....I am traveling at 200k's. This is of course on a track

And may I ask what speed you are travelling at 7000RPM in third gear? Maybe you should ease off the pedal...seems to me that you do this on a regular basis. If you are concerned get it back to your tuner for diagnosis.

GTR would be better...OK? the two R's side by side...GTR R35 suck....OK? personal opinions differ among us all. And yes I agree R35GTR is better...reads like it should...

My nephew has NSN-GTR That is far better than...GTR R35 But if you had GTR35........that is another story.

Oh...sorry...I did not answer the question correctly. This is the toughest oil pump . http://www.hotsyontario.ca/images/Products/5645-S-0105.jpg To bad you don't have enough room in your engine bay....

+1 What topic was being discussed? OH..AFM's....... :laughing-smiley-014: RB20 or RB25 just plug in ...that is what I have gone with. But if you got $$$...Nismo all the way..at least you have bragging rights......

Why? After your install keep the oil cap off for a few seconds when you start it if this is your concern. Make sure you have 700mm extra oil after your dip stick reads full to allow for line and cooler.

Keep that if it is original... The mufflers are very hard to find..I should know...have been looking for a GTR33 one for ages. Luke.......if you have a chance to give it a run in a 1/4 mile drag...pm me your times..... Just don't fry your clutch to much though....this will be your next mod if you do.

Thinking again about your mods..... I am suspecting your muffler may have a large build up of carbon. Check your rear muffler. If it is stock...get it re-conditioned. Do not get a cannon.

Claimed factory 206KW's Actual figures 240KW's This is at the fly-wheel I am assuming...correct me any one if I am wrong Loss of power through the drive train etc.......brings you to around 160 kw at the rears...or 140 AWKW. Wear and tear through age and carbon build up in your exhaust ie pipes,cat and rear muffler combined with bad oils in your engine/diff/gear box can cause more than a 30% loss in power delivered to the ground. The figures you stated earlier in this topic...the before figures confirm this. The figures you got after PFC install and tune bought your power delivery back up to well over a stock motor(new).

If your shaving..remove the Hicas...no need for that

:laughing-smiley-014: Have you ever though of getting it out on the bonnet...like a rex bonnet scope? Seriously....having a higher running oil temp..ie around 90 to 95............not over 110... can only work to help your motor sustain a better life. Engine oil is not like water....it does not boil at 100.... Boredom......can kill a man

Tomie............ But really its a personal choice......both are excellent.

Are you 100% sure? No doubt others have ever used your rims before? Be careful how you deal with this issue, could come back. Reminds me of the stupid laws out there... If some one comes into your house with a knife you have the right to get a knife to defend yourself. If some one comes into your house with a gun you have the right to get a gun...... The trouble is do you have to ask the criminal what he has before you can get one yourself. And if he has a gun , do you have time to get your gun out of the safe and look for the bullets in the cupboard. The law sucks. All you can do is report it to the Police...make a declaration at the cop shop and move on with your life.

Coil pack / AFM /fuel pump....check in this order.

If they are not careful and dealers behave in this matter Nissan may have to give it to the Infinity dealers in the US. It will be the Infinity GTR. Don't think it will hurt their sales, more than likely increase them. Nissan dealers are not up to marketing such a great product...not here or in the US. They are arrogant and have no people skills.To train them could not help Nissan Australia...nor Nissan US. Just my 2 cents worth.

It is not just about kw's........... It is about Torque...KW's.....Response........Traction......How you set up your car...... No mods mean......GT-ss Turbo's...... Exhaust Cams Injectors PFC etc is a 2530 or -5 Turbo. All Dyno's reading differ............to go on all the figures as Gospel is wrong. Engines differ...same engine same year same age same K's can read 20 to 30 kw's different on the same dyno. My Turbo's give me positive boost as low as 2700RPM...and reach 1.15 Bar at 5K..when pushed. In second gear this is over the 120km an hour. At 4800RPM I get 948Nm of Torque.....this can only be achieved by -5's or 2530's..unless you go single or -10(ie)larger Cams, timing tuner can play a big difference. -5's or 2530's have slight differences....HKS has managed to draw slightly higher figures..but not as what rev210 has suggested. And for the money....there is no way you can tell on the road unless you want to risk your license. -5's will be great for your needs........but make sure your tuning is a safe one. The power output can if not tuned properly be too much for your stock motor.