700HP-GTR33

Hello jetpilot. Need a set of brembo pads for a GTR33. Really just need the rears for the time being...but if the price is right..lol Pm me if you can help.

Hello all, Rianto, Looking for some (REAR) rotors for a GTR33...slotted L and R. Also want some pads to go with these.(Greenstuff) Could you price me ASAP. Thanks in advance Tekin

Stealerships is a great word. I like it a lot. 1 for Grinners. It will be along time for Nissan Australia to get there big fat round heads around the concept of. 1- Customer Care 2- Customer Loyalty 3- Market expectations of a 150K car Long are the days people will be feed shit and put into a corner. We all vote with our wallets I for one will never buy another new Nissan again. Hooray for the grey imports..... The more people land a Nissan GTR into Australia, for track or for re-sale the better it is for the consumers. Lets face it. The car should be sold for no more than 90K. If Nissan Australia believe they are a BMW or Merc. dealer and can charge people $60K on top of delivery by Nissan Tokyo they are going to have a rude awakening. I mean...the sale price is 90K in the USA and that is with the dealer costings included.

I'll give you $300

PM SENT

All depends on who is buying it....? What you are selling it for......$$ My guess would be 3 to 4K... and that is if it was new. A friend bought a complete...new...without Turbo RB26 Engine..with all the N1 pistons,Rods,Crank,Cams,Block.....etc etc. $9 K delivered ..ex Japan.

Bad fuel pump.....? Clogged fuel filter...? Bad..or stuffed battery....? Battery would be my first guess......You have had the alarm drain it a number of times.... Incorrect..or slightly lower power delivery can also cause this problem.

Has he tuned RB26 Motors before? Ask him how many he has tuned and what computer he prefers to use? How long it takes , what parts does he replace...ie oil..and the rough costs of it all If he is an expert at his field I see no reason why he can't tune a different car besides a Rotary.

You must have broken your piggy bank........ As suggested......depends on your tuner. Some can get good power and response from stock...... I have the same set up as what you will have...... These are the cams I have 143036 A Type + 153027 Cam Pulley Nissan BNR32/BCNR33 RB26DETT Duration IN 260, EX 252, Lift 9.15 (Pon Cam + Cam Pulley IN & EX) AU $ 832.67 These Cams also work with the stock computer...and the only ones in the market place that do. I have a better response after the install and greater torque. Do a search and read as much as you can......Other parts may need changing when this is installed. Good luck.

Its just marketing..... Creating a reason why you should spend an extra $20K.... Its also creating its own after market products before the rest do.

Yes I do believe you are correct. Thanks.

I can feel a group buy coming on...............

Engine out.... New oil pump New Balancer. Allow 4K Maybe a new crank..depending on it condition. Allow 1K When motor is out...new Turbo's a must....to difficult when motor is in. Allow another 3K GTR's cost money... Plan your mods.....take it step by step..... Allow for miss...items...... Crank...lol.....that will be the least of your worries....

Most swear on red-line Shock proof. Do a quick search on here..... I myself run it on my car...both diff and gear box....give it 400k's and you will feel the difference. Hope i have been of some help..... SEARCH>>>SEARCH>>>SEARCH>>>>

RB26 Stock pumps are good..if new...up to 330kwsATW N1 pumps are only a little bit better..though some say they shit themself above 370kwsATW. The figures above are only estimates....type of driving you do,frequency of oil changes and conditions play a big role in longevity of these two pumps. Jun,Tomie and other oil pumps are made tough to handle above these figures reliably...but also cost 3 times the price.

Its great to save money...but you may just be prolonging the inevitable. (2 long words in one sentence..lol) Get a new set...and forget about this brain F%^k.

Get the car inspected by someone who can tell you... -what injectors are fitted. -what turbo's are fitted. -if there was an after market engine management ever fitted. Besides this..check spark plugs for uneven burn..check radiator for bad colouring..check engine oil level and change ASAP. Replace timing belt...fuel pump..and all oils including diff..gearbox... Oil pump means engine out..so plan to do engine work at the same time You will find some good advice on here on the good oils to use. Also save some pennies for new Turbo's...that is if you don't want engine work earlier. This above items will determine you next steps on making it more reliable as a day to day car. After all of the above has been addressed...save some pennies for a clutch...before 3 Month of driving... if you still have a stock clutch....you will be loosing grip. Jim Berry Clutches.....he will rebuild you stock clutch...do not throw it away. Also keep your exhaust..if it is stock that is. Keep you suspension as well..GTR suspensions are great on the road.....you may just need new shocks at a latter date. Hope I have been of some help.

Hello all I need urgently a GTR33 Radiator hose kit. Top hose has a hole...... Genuine or after market is fine for the time being. Am looking to upgrade radiator soon. If someone has a top only...that is fine as well. I am in Melbourne. Can pick up. PM me if you can help. Cheers Tekin

Hello all, A simple question question. Are the 32,33,34 GTR radiator hoses identical? I need a hose really quick and am unsure. Thanks in advance. Tekin

You have confused the -5's with the -9's GTRS and -5's have the same housing.....just different turbines'

Ash- It has always been great discussing topics like this one with you over the few years I have been a member. Yes...creating parts for the after market is what makes money for most of these companies. But in most cases it is justified....take the- stock brakes on a GTR..great but need better for the track...Pads and Discs. - stock Turbo's on a GTR..great but need some help getting past the line in 13 seconds. - stock exhaust on a GTR..great but a little restrictive - stock fuel pump..............great but can't pump too much..especially if you want a great tune. - can I mention the clutch...5 drops at 6K and the organic crap disappears ETC ETC ETC............. Nissan made a car for the people.....in stock form they though it would be adequate for the mass public. Then N1 improved all aspects to create a race car.....N1AFM,N1Fuel Pump,N1 Block,N1 Pistons,N1 Clutch. N1 Fuel pump.. ETC ETC ETC.............. It is not Dyno figures I seek...KW's mean nothing when a Freight train does not kick in with it. Cams give you lots of Torque...that is my argument. And yes..I like to see a bit of rocking when I pull up at the lights.

I think you may not be comparing apples to apples......street and circuit are two different things. Also, tuners who are dedicated to racing may have the best and fastest track cars, but they spend a lot of time and money preparing them.There is no way they are going to make this effort on your car. Also, gearing can play a big role in speed/spool/boost. Changing gears can play a big role. A GTR32/33 have 5 speed manuals...this means less gears..more longer times in these gears..thus more on high boost. this is good for street cars. A GTR34 on the other hand has more gears...less time in each gear...thus a leaser time on boost. What cars do Racepace run..what are there specs...do you think they will tell you? I wonder if they have not tinkered with gears etc etc. My answer is an honest answer...if stock cams where the best for GTR's...why would we have so many different after market ones to choose from.All that time and money from HKS, Tomie, etc etc..is it all a waste.????????.lol I think you can email them now...let them know..Racepace has decided this and thus it it true. My statement stands....

That is great for a stock GTR..... PFC will only get you another 20 to 30 AWKW's.....

Cams dialled in correctly can greatly increase flow of gases through the motor..thus decreasing the spool time of the Turbo's.This in turn gives you +boost quicker and a more responsive motor. Many who have done the upgrades on a RB26 would swear either by -7's or -5's........ In a stock car....-7's work a treat. Start to want some serious power and they become too small for the job. -5's are in a larger housing than the -7's and this causes a little more lag. Cams overcome this lag slightly...added to -5's...Poncams work a wonder. If their is anyone who doesn't know about this...they should not be working on cars...fullstop. Good luck with the install of your gtss Turbo's.

If you plan on doing cams at a later date you will be kicking yourself if you don't go -5's. Response greatly increases with a good set of cams dialed in correctly As for the gaskets...you only get them with the HKS Kit..but you will be paying a lot more for this. So buy your -7 or -5 Turbo's and get new gaskets elsewhere. For piece of mind...get a N1 fuel pump and regulator As for your 300AWKW's, have a look at others who are making this reliably on the UPGRADE thread.