700HP-GTR33

Yes ...thought it may be the case Good workshops are hard to find I suppose.

Thanks for the reply, I had front seal problems when I first got the car. Had the seals changed 3 times until I suspected the oil pump. Sure enough after the pump was changed no more problem. The balancer came off and then put back on a few times.....causing the key to break and cause my balancer to chip. We replaced the Balancer last year this time....everything is still tight. My workshop has not pulled it out yet to see what the problem is...but am suspecting the worst. How did you fix the problem?

PM Sent

Hello all, I have a noise coming from the front harmonic balancer...looks like it is rubbing. The clutch (pulse)vibrates as I am taking off... Is it possible I have bent my crank? Or have I a faulty harmonic balancer? New harmonic balancer fitted 12 months ago. Cheers

Hey Matt, How long ago did you rebuild those shocks? Have invoices? If so I am interested. I am in Melbourne. Have sent you a PM. Tekin

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...;hl=GTR33+TYRES

Hi, Looking for a GTR33 Stock exhaust.(Cat Back) Location Melbourne Willing to pick up Thanks

Maclaren is a great car, but the lambo is sex itself, especially with a gtr badge

GTR33 96 145000......with Nismo Cluster...so who really knows

Is the fuel pump new? Are the injectors new? Are your running a stock ECU? Are your Turbo's new? Did you check your boost? Are your plugs new? Was it tuned...or were you running the same tune as before? What pistons your running..stock or forged? Lots of questions.... As stated post up some pictures and list what went back on the rebuilt motor.

You have PM

A GTR34 with stock suspension, mild modifications ie Computer and Turbo will always be the car of choice for me. A Ford will look outdated once another newer/revised model is launched. Even though you may think a GTR34 has had its day and is going to be superseded by the 35, it still has a class of its own and still in my opinion is respected. My car is a daily drive but luckily the commute is nowhere close to the city. I have a Jim Berry clutch which is softer on the foot than all the rest. My ride is not low but the front lip is. The other thing you will need to consider is...depreciation. A F6 at $60K will be worth 30K in 3 years time, and may sit around $20K in 5 to 7 years. A GTR34 priced today at $50K in 3 years time can only drop to $40K because most of the depreciation it has already had over the years. So really its a no brainer if you are working hard for the money and cannot claim this on your tax.

How long is a piece of string? I mean how can you plan to own one? You either have the $$$...or can get Finance for the $$$ But before all of this your girlfriend or wife will need to be persuaded....

What condition is the Factory Suapension? What is the best price you can do including shipping to Melbourne. Cheers

So have you all received yours? Cause I want one too................... :D :)

GTR33 handbrake and Gear Boot $55..is this correct? Really I was just wanting the Gear Boot...lol....but two for the price of 1 May as well change them both. PM Me with banking details

There are Two Codes on the Bendix website for the same car. Also a lack of interest in giving out information from ABS and others on correct part numbers. Here is a copy and paste from Bendix Front DB1520 Manufacturer: Nissan Year: 1990 – 2001 Model: Skyline Variant: R32; 33; 34 GTR Brembo Caliper Set consists of: 2 Inner Pads and 2 Outer Pads FMSI: 7858-D960 FRONT REAR Rear DB1521 Manufacturer: Nissan Year: 1990 – 2001 Profile Model: Skyline Variant: R32; 33; 34 GTR Brembo Caliper Set consists of: 2 Inner Pads and 2 Outer Pads FMSI: 7859-D961 FRONT Front DB1170 Manufacturer: Nissan Year: 1989 – 2001 Profile Model: Skyline Variant: R32, R33, R34 GTR (Import) Turbo Set consists of: 2 Inner Pads and 2 Outer Pads FMSI: 7340-D460 REAR Rear DB1220 Manufacturer: Nissan Year: 1989 – 2001 Model: Skyline Variant: R32, R33, R34 GTR (Import) Turbo Set consists of: LH Inner, RH Inner, and 2 Outer Pads FMSI: 7341-D461 Manufacturer: Nissan Year: 1989 – 2001 Model: Skyline Variant: R32, R33, R34 GTR (Import) Turbo http://www.bendix.com.au/ProductCatalogue.aspx Now you know why I am having some problems with this. Looking at these though it states Brembo Calipers, therefore, DB1521 is GDB3350 PWR Lucas DB1520 is GDB3381 PWR Lucas And for non brembo..gtst etc these are the codes DB1170 is GDB1006 PWR Lucas DB1220 is GDB1007 PWR Lucas So I may be in error from my second post.

OK...Here are the part numbers for anybody who is interested. DB1170 Part Number for Bendix Front GTR33 is PWR Lucas GDB1006 DB1220 Part Number for Bendix Rear GTR33 is PWR Lucas GDB1007 This is the news I have received from ABS Other Codes of Interest DB1521 is GDB3350 DB1520 is GDB3381 If anybody here has the full listing please post here. thanks

Have you got an After market ECU. Sound like the fuel is not burning properly...or you used poor fuel from a garage. My sister in law filled up twice at the same servo and both times she could not get the car started the next morning. It will blow heaps of smoke and splutter and kick like a mule till it has cleared the lines.I know cause I started it by pumping the gas to get the engine to kick. I would suggest you report it to your last fuel station. Get a new fuel filter and maybe if your like me, dump your fuel. I suggest all you out there to either use Shell or Mobil for your fuel. All the rest may have quality problems and may or may not address then. Good luck with the fix

I cut out a few sections of the plastic inner, just to be safe.

Hello all. I have searched the net and forums. I have a GTR33, searching for pads front and rear without much luck. Part Numbers for PWR Lucas brake pads for Skyline's are no-where to be found. Also called ABS to find R32 (RB20) only on his parts list.(Epping) Melb. Can anyone post up some part numbers for all the Skylines to make it easy for all. The part numbers are in different code than the Bendix codes. Take care

+1 My supplier owns a few around that area. Had lunch last Sunday.Pigged out, it was all free. Then he got them to cook two chickens for me, take away Oh sorry, off the topic. SkyDragon....you may have to spend some money and get an alternative reason why you have low power results. Higher power engine output can only be safely created by two variables. Air and Fuel ratios...ie combustion. Forced induction(larger turbo's) increases the air but not the fuel. Depending how clever the tuner is..he or she may decide that injectors can deliver the fuel for the performance you are after. So most here have stated some facts and referred to previous topics of discussion.Some have even offered their help. There is no reason why you should pursue this argument about..my tuner..etc..etc If you were sick and the fix was to operate...would you not want to get a different opinion? Good luck with the fix.

OMG Thats fully sick too dude. I am gonna get that sickening manifold and install it on top of my fully wicked bonnet.

There is a huge difference between those two turbo's...SS is for Street and GT-RS should only be used in drag or race. As for your friends blown turbo's. Likely causes.....as stated already Oil/Water starvation. Oil blockage in line. I suspect though a few things could have gone wrong with the install. To have only used them hard twice and they are rat shit leads me to believe the following causes also. Turbo's may have been knocked with a hammer to re-align with the manifold and then again to fit the dumps...it is tight and may have been belted in. Was it an engine out job? Boost controller fault. When your drifting you don't get to see the boost gauges...and they may not be correct if factory OEM. What Boost controller are you using? How was it set up? Good luck with the warranty claim.

Thanks Greg for the quick response. How do you think the Lucas rate compared to these you are offering? Do you sell Lucas TRW Pads? Can't seem to find the part numbers for my car. Anyways, I am running Brembo pads front at the moment with RDA rotors.Stock rear. Replacing the rears with slotted rotors and new pads. The trouble is at the moment the Brembo pads suck..take a long time to warm up and have scared me quite often. Car 99% street driven, fairly hard when all warms up that is...lol No track work..a few 1/4 mile runs..that is about it. The trouble is there are so many choices... I am after one that works well when cold...does not fade or explode when pushed hard...has very minimum disc wear, quite and creates little to no dust. Take care Tekin