GTR1993

cheers, no worries ill go swap it over for one of them then.

yea no worries ill see what i can work out, not hard but just wondering if there was a bolt up option

I was dummy fitting my brackets up to my 30 block as I want to order an ati balancer to drive my dry sump pump. I stripped the RB30 down, i have a spare RB26 balancer on the crank off my r32. I installed a R32 RB20 det power steer pump with the lug on the bracket machined off to suit the rb30 and the power steer pulley and the standard rb30 water pump (unsure if i need to change the pulley on the water pump) are about 5mm off alignment. The rb26 balancer needs to go closer towards the motor (i.e machine it rather then install a spacer) What am i missing? I have done a search as well.

they are on the 4th gear syncro, i dont know what they do but i can ask someone who will know. Only reason i know is i was having issue selecting 4th when i took my housing off and was looking at them when I was trying to figure out what was wrong.

Guilt - those clips look the same as in my R32 gtr box that i have the bell housing off at the moment.

noticed that the felector fork would go one 3rd syncro nicly i think it is, but wouldnt slide all the way onto 4th gear synco, a nice tap with the hammer on the input shaft aligned (loosened) it and now its all working sweet. Not sure what happened there.

Cheers ill have a look tonight or tomorrow, worst comes to worst i have another gtr box i can pull off the bell housing and check the differences! Edit, i did take the bell housing off and it binds even with the bell housing off. When the shifter is in neutral it feels as if it in gead and when you turn the input shaft the output turns, and when you select a gear it binds up. The stainless washer you are talking about is it a thrust washer (bearing)?

Took a gtr bell housing off to inspect the gearset. Took the cover plate off from inside the bell housing that reviels the 2 circlips and washer ont he shifter rod. Took off all the bolts that go through the sandwich plate, also removed the retainer with ball bearing and spring that holds it in gear then tapped off the bellhousing....no problem. I reversed the process and now it wont find neutral and when you put it in gear it jams the box up. Generally i dont ask these type of questions because its too hard to diagnose over the net, but has anyone had a similar problem or have I missed something? Cheers

take 100 off.

still available

easier to pull the motor out end of story. You have to remove the head to do rings anyway so do you want to remove the head and sump only leaving the block in the car, I don't think so.

Hey i have a Bride Brix seat for sale, comes with rail suit R32, i had a look and it is actually a S13 rail with the hole drilled to suit R32 as all 3 holes line up but one is moved 10mm. Located in SA. $750 with rail cheers Pm here here if you would like it. Can ship as i have TNT account etc.

CUMSLT??

I'm not really one to go on about spelling, I use short hand as well but f**k, just spell the words correctly.

no offset doesn't matter in terms of atessa, just the rolling diameter.

i have seen many mainlines do this. 300 mainline to 350 dd, just the way they do it.

do you throw money away often?

best way to fix the fouled plugs is with an oxy if you have access to one. Also on the sard injectors i tried all the latency changes that i was meant to do, standard was the best for me.

Had some interest but no cash yet. bump

Hey mate, would you be able to tell me what dust boots you are using? Free bump haha

please provide some examples. i think the numbers he had a reasonable, just reversed.

yea was just gonna say its on the ORC website.

errrr hang on, more flow on the exhaust then intake, lol.

I have a JUN oil pump for sale, $1050 firm. I was going to build my motor but have changed directions with the car and now going 5 stage dry sump. Can pick up or send by registered insured mail only. PM me on here

neg on the rods at all?