GTR1993

no

have you been to a bearing supplier yet?

id say a nice bearing puller in a press would work real nice, cant be on there that hard.

sorry mate i mean the small tail shaft that runs to he front diff from the transfer case.

lol too bad they never said if they ran more boost or timing with the haltech to record a higher number, nice test.

would like some of these, cheers, pm me here.

You would have to key in tyre diameter and diff ratio to get a meaningful torque reading really. (assuming 1:1 in 4th)

they are good valves, along with ferra valves as well.

look from under the car, or remove a few induction pipes to look from on top, look for a silver metal ID tag and record the numbers, that is of course that it has a tag. Look for any HKS markings on the compressor covers (or other brands) If they are high flow customs, then you would have to pull them off for a definitive answer.

I bought from kyle before he was even doing it as a full time job, i go there because he is a nice guy. I mean what else could you want.

I have looked in to this, a new shaft is f**king epic expensive from nissan. Someone on here from the UK said they had the old ones milled out, then got ones to suit and machines rings in there for circlips and all was good. When i spoke to a place here they said they machine them out then just put a new uni in and weld washers over to hold the unis in, no where near as good as machines grooves for circlips.

but did you check your bearing preloads?

nissan have given you a real "gift", there are like 8 different height carriers, 3 different pivot balls and a few different bearings. I use the "datsun" bearing because its the smallest diameter where it touches the fingers, meaning the largest moment arm, therefore less effort needed to actuate the clutch. I then shim the pivot ball to suit what carrier i have (generally can make a 16mm work)

I know a guy who has a rb25 bluey, no need to cut the firewall to fit it in there is enough room.

I fitted an 044 intank in my gtr, works fine at 315 rwkw, will turn up the boost when new exhaust goes on.

no its your clutch, or wheel spin.

i was just about to post that.

You dont have to go solid rear to get a 9" in there... http://www.harrop.com.au/root_folder/drive...hsg2525-00.html

iv seen a rb26 on a dyno run with cam gear loose, didnt bend the valves.

I have been looking into this as well, i have had a whole oil pump on the CMM and im going to look at doing a whole pump, with external oil relif etc. The only think i could say with gets for a N1 is that if you look at a tomei pump, the gears are physically much larger diameter, this gives the gear more thickness so its harder to crack them in the "troughs" of the wave pattern.

If you want a glide they are only 2 speed. A glide or a turbo 400 can both be built to handle 2000hp. The VL boxes are 4 speed and can be built to hold good power but are generally replaced for the 3 speed jatcos as they are stronger.

Only the R34 GTR has the getrag box in it.

Yea give it a go, Better to try then never give anything a go. Ask him and see what he says.

If you haven't done this i would seriously recommend giving it to a diff expert. In my opinion it is harder then doing clearances on an engine. The shims will never be right once you change bearings, and shims are special order from Nissan. Once you do a heap you get a feel for where you need to go to get correct bearing pre load and correct mating between crown and pinion but takes multiple disassembles of the diff to get it right, even for a pro. If you want to do it, you need a good bearing puller, press, bearing blue, torque wrench and a few punches and hammers. Also a bearing pre load gauge.

you need to pull it open and have a look at the clutches see the one on the right, darker one, that is a cone shaped one that adds preload, standard has 2 of these, and one less friction disc