Harey

Definitely listen to Trent. Those injectors will give you plenty of room for the future eg E85 etc. Stick with the 3" pod and alloy intake pipe. Not many people making over 300rwkw with the GT3076 0.82 on ~18psi, so will need to run more boost to make 320 or just run E85. This forum tends to rate bosch fuel pumps over walbro fuel pumps so thats up to you, I have a nismo intank fuel pump which Trent really likes. Its a bit pricey though but will handle more power, over 400rwkw on 98. If your interested in drag racing then dont listen to the laggy comment, you should not go any smaller than this for mostly straight line stuff. Have you had a look at the GTX3076? Its the new model, looks to make more top end power with a negligible loss in response.

I have been told by a cop that I am not allowed to speed while overtaking. He said if you cant overtake without speeding then you shouldnt be overtaking. I highly doubt it says in the legislation that it is acceptable to go over the limit 'within reason' while overtaking??

I have read this post 3 times and my head hurts. Why would you find a 3076 on an RB30 annoying? too linear and not enough of a hit?

I think you mean 0.82 housing. To be honest I think the 0.82 will be worth changing to. Exactly right the turbo is already off and you will get good money for your current kit. Not to mention the hassle and expense of fitting the current turbo up getting a tune and then deciding its not what you want and having to change turbo again and retune.

Is that a GCG hiflow with completely standard exterior?

Yup its decent and worth it if you are buying a new turbo, but not mind blowing like some people were saying.

What do you mean by new turbo? They wont have stock of standard turbos so you will need to find one and send it to them if you dont want to have your car off the road while they hiflow your turbo.

Even if power drops off, as long its more power than the next gear up at that speed you are still better off revving it out to 7,000rpm or whatever the engine is safe to. Same as how a standard turbo power drops off over 5,500-6,000rpm but you are still better revving it out to rev limiter. Check out this link: http://www.allpar.com/eek/hp-vs-torque.html

The HKS 2835 Pro S seems to have just as much top end as a 3071 0.82 on an RB25. And there are plenty of results similar to the 3076 0.82. Even if it does nose over just before 7000rpm that would still be a very nice setup. The other thing I was thinking of is that the HKS 2835 Pro S came in a 0.87 exhaust housing although I am not sure if it is T3 as well. A 0.87 exhaust housing would be ideal imo

Are you talking about if he stayed RB25? His turbo would not handle 8,500rpm redline on an RB30. I think joey would be happy if it handled 7000rpm well on the RB30. That was my point that 9.5 comp would be super nice on the RB30 but I think the RIPS standard refreshed engine is a great deal.

+ injectors, exhaust, Z32 afm and a 3" metal intake

They dont have any bolt on turbo kits for the RB25. There are plenty of turbos you can buy for $1200 in Australia that will bolt on. Talk to hypergear, they will get you 270rwkw from a hiflow turbo. I have a hiflow turbo with a larger rear housing and make 279rwkw with exhaust, injectors and Z32 afm.

You looking at this: RB30 Stock internal bottom ends, with RIPS modifications, fully refreshed NZD$3,500 rwd or $4,750 4wd including adapter plate kit (suit up to 600hp and 7200 rpm) http://www.ripsltd.com/products.html $3500NZD is roughly $2650AUD, so hopefully get it to Melbourne for $3k AUD. Then labour and tuning.

Yeah I didnt quite get my thoughts into words very well. The lower compression with the same turbo will have worse response and worse power everywhere on the same boost level. The only advantage of lower compression is if you are going to run huge boost with a big turbo or if the only fuel available is poor. If the max power desired is not huge then higher compression will have better response and require less boost, especially if using E85. Let me get this straight I think the stock 30 bottom end from RIPS is sensational and would be excellent. If joeyjoey chooses to not buy a short block and instead gets someone to build him an engine then surely choosing a slightly different piston/rod combo would not be much (if any) more expensive. All I am doing is throwing around some ideas. Thanks for the theory disco, helps back my ramblings.

From what I remember joeyjoey is pushing the RB30, a few other people have said why not just fix whats broken. I am just going along with what the owner is saying.

Highish comp as then less boost pressure and airflow is required to make nice power and it will be more responsive off boost. Same as how low compression requires more boost pressure and quite often a larger turbo to make the same power. The 2835 Pro S will spool up fine as is but why not make it better if only 300rwkw is the goal. I agree a stock 30 bottom would be fine but I dont think joey will be using a stock engine and if hes building you may as well build it the way you want it. My mate had a turbocharged V6 with a 3082 turbo. With the factory engine of compression 9.2 the car was fantastic, super responsive and pulled very well, however when he blew the factory engine he rebuilt it for low compression ~8.5 and the car took longer to spool and lost some of its pull. It really needed a larger GT35 turbo to overcome the low compression and make good power but he got over spending money on it so left the GT30 on there. He would have been better off leaving the compression at 9.2 or even raising to say 9.5. It seems to be a good way to make good response and power with a smaller turbo.

There are many threads on here about turbo reversion and whether its dangerous to the turbo. Tends to be most people saying that it is dangerous but most stories I have heard have been after a long time and could be other things. Either way I think its preferable to not have turbo reversion. You could start another thread and post up pics of your engine bay and we can discuss. On this forum you get experienced tuners such as Trent from Status Tuning answering you anyway so you get the best of both worlds! That does suck if you had it all ready to go and asked the tuner and he still said its fine without the bov plumbed back!

Woah hold on, its not a major thing. It will only affect light throttle cruising where you are in vacuum and only very slightly between gear changes when giving it stick (although I cant feel the difference). It would only require a tiny bit of retuning. The WOT tuning would not be changed. When I took my car to Trent the bov was not plumbed back and Trent said look I recommend you plumb it back but its up to you. My first tune was done with the bov blocked off as my metal intake pipe had nowhere to plumb it back to yet. It made exactly the same power, the only difference was just minor driveability things like flat spots and some backfiring on gear changes. Unfortunately, most of the time its a fair bit of work to plumb back the bov to an aftermarket metal intake, so a tuner is not really going to be interested in doing that work. I would prefer them to at least mention it but I think it falls on the owner to sort that out beforehand. Plus 90% of the tuning will be the same anyway.

Interested to hear this too, geeze it doesnt look cheap!

+1 for plumbing back the bov on all cars with MAF's. The air has been counted and you are loosing it from the system. The biggest difference I noticed was rough acceleration low down in the rev range. It can be mostly tuned around but mine improved moreso once I plumbed the bov back into the intake. It will help response after a gear change although I couldnt tell the difference. The problem is if its been tuned around, then if you plumb it back you will prob need a quick touch up. Trent from Status said with an R34 he strongly recommends it, moreso than the R33 but still recommends it for the R33. What have you done with the pcv valve? Is that plumbed back as well?

It may as well be a different country as the vehicle legalities between QLD and VIC are completely different. This is one of the things that cops will pick on and can mean the difference between being on your way and a defect which could find more things. And even possibly the deadly VASS!!

Could be a positive that the issue started when the car wasnt being driven hard, if somethings gone maybe it hasnt had a chance to do much damage. Go for a highish comp 3.0 that will be super responsive and wont need lots of boost and the small turbo should be fine.

Not in the forced induction section. Well I havent seen it here at all, maybe I subconsciously ignore it hahaha

It would be very responsive thats for sure. Just thinking the 0.68 housing might be restrictive up top.

Any info on what happened mate? Or still a sore point Have you decided on what turbo you will use with the 3.0L?