Harey

I have a trust return flow intercooler and has made up to 290rwkw on the dyno without any issues. We pulled out some timing and reduced it to 279 and its been great. The previous owner also on here made 310rwkw with it. It seems to be a discontinued model as I cant find them still for sale anywhere. I think the blitz one will do it also. What cooler do you have now?

LOL This would be THE most asked question on this forum. Even on the same page as this thread is: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/348743-3076r-for-270rwkw/page__st__20 Otherwise please do a search, people on this forum and very helpful but you need to do some of the work yourself. Also, look through the RB25 dyno results thread.

I am making 280rwkw with the standard bov. If you spend more than the hypergear turbo, make sure you get a genuine garrett housing. You wouldnt believe how many people post up here with issues (mostly boost control and poor power) and after some more info we find out they have other housings that just dont seem to perform consistently.

2.5k you would be happy if it covered the turbo and lines etc. 4-5k would be more accurate for what you said depending on how much you can fit yourself. You could meet your budget with a hypergear turbo

doesn't sound right, that's better or equal to a 0.63 housing

U And then when an aftermarket manifold is fitted and he wants to make use of the built engine he's got nowhere to go.

+1 for Trent, legend!

Great to hear, that is what I went with!

Except for your exhaust manifold, external wastegate and dump pipe! Or you have to get some custom piping done to run an external wastegate.

r33cruiser, on 28 May 2010, 10:36 PM, said: full boost (16psi) at 3600-3800. Pulls HARD, all the way to 7500rpm. No more than ~200rpm difference between a GT30 0.82 and a GT35 0.63 on a stock RB25.

Definitely WOW! Just remember that has an aftermarket manifold, external wastegate and runs E85 fuel. I think the HKS GT2835 Pro S is the best overall turbo out there for a stock RB25 today, 280-290rwkw on 98 with full boost by 3500rpm. Things might change once these GTX turbos come out. Only time will tell.

Not if its a 0.63 rear! Plenty making 300rwkw with good response.

Hey Guys, wondering if anyone has any tips for me using a Jim Berry clutch. I have had it for about 9 months now, it is very light and grips very well. My only difficulty has been taking off fairly quickly but not a full launch. The gripping point seems to be narrow that if i feed any power in as I let the clutch out smoothly it shudders a bit. If I let the clutch out without any throttle its super smooth and if i give it lots of revs and take off hard its fine, it clamps well. Anyone got any tips? My gripping point is very high aslo.

Yup gotcha, there is definitely place for a nice diff just didnt want to see you doing it to chase this issue.

What exhaust housing do you have on the GT35? 0.63 housing will give you good response and up to 300rwkw. 0.82 will have some lag but will be great once you build the engine and decide to push things. 1.06 will be VERY laggy and not recommended. What you could do is throw the 0.63 on while the engine is standard, then upgrade to a 0.82 when you build the engine. Brad, I would argue for the GTX3076 over the GTX3071 as he plans to build an engine later on.

But if your diff is gone then you will still get wheelspin when your expensive tyre is heated up. But you dont, therefore it would seem getting some tyres that get up to temp quickly is your first avenue.

I suppose you draw the line with EGTs, going past a turbos efficiency will increase the EGTs no doubt. But I suppose if thats still in acceptable range then thats still ok. Although I would prefer to drop a few psi and get right in its efficiency zone.

Go for a drive and if you lay 2 lines then dont worry about the diff. A good diff is more for getting the power down earlier out of corners but generally you sacrifice noise and shuddering etc. Your complaint of wheelspin in a straight line is not going to be solved by a diff if its already turning both wheels.

Yeah sounds like they are more track oriented. KU36s can be had for $240-280 even for wide rears. Its important to work out what driving you do and what tyres suit best. I just went through that recently and I mostly either just commute and occasionally have a quick squirt so I need the tyres up to temp quick and doesnt matter if they get hot after 3-4 laps as I dont do anything like that. I can spend more to get better track performance and wet weather performance but I dont drive hard in the wet anyway either. Dont throw your current tyres out just wait till they are stuffed. At the rate you are wheelspinning it shouldnt be too long haha

I think its a tyre thing then if you cant get em up to temp. Get some KU36s or Falken RT615s they heat up very easily. The only problem with them is supposedly after 4-5 laps they can get too hot but I think they are perfect for the street. Even with normal driving they are pretty close, then a bit more throttle and they are sticky. You can feel it on a launch they might spin a bit then they hook up. Otherwise you want to get traction with cold tyres??

just a note, I believe they are all externally gated turbos.

I would suggest that stock shocks and stock springs would be good for traction. Lowered king springs will mean the stock shocks cant control the lowered stiffer springs very well. I have bilstein shocks all round with king springs and 279rwkw in a 34 GTT and on a good road surface in the dry I get no wheelspin in 2nd with KU36 tyres (your tyres are better). This is obviously not dropping the clutch in 2nd etc. As Ash said I would pump those tyres up. I run my KU36s on between 36-38psi. I tried down to 30psi but there was no gain in grip for me. Does the rear squat when you launch? I am guessing not because the king springs would stop it meaning you get no squat and the shocks cant control the springs, worst of both worlds.

Power sounds low for a GT35 with 20psi! As Titan said you must have the 0.63 exhaust housing?? If you do, then put a 0.82 housing and retune done! The intake plenum is not required. It will simplify your piping and may drop intake temps slightly but not essential. An exhaust manifold would help quite a lot above 300rwkw but I think you can get 330rwkw out of it on the standard one without any issues. E85 is the other option too for another ~30rwkw.

Are you saying the 0.82 made similar power to the 0.63 even between 3-4000rpm? I would have thought while the 0.82 is building boost through this rev range the 0.63 would be going hard. I do agree with all the other advantages of the 0.82 I just would have thought the 0.63 would be ahead to around 4000rpm.

Assuming 98 fuel?