Ghostrider

Would like the plugs that go into the back of both units as well if possible, as over zealous radio installers have destroyed mine. Cheers, D

Has this been sent yet???

So! It's finally coming together. The gunna tag might finally have created something eh? lol Pity you cant answer the phone????? D

He wants about $10000.00 unregistered. His wife is expecting or just had another child and she can see $$$$$$$$'s just laying around when it could be put to better use buying a better family car, but hubby wants his 10G's or nothing. Interesting bit is, he bought it for about $3500.00 and has done nothing to it for his expectations. D

AND it's a PIG! D

If your trying to repair the lights, like just cracks, get some MEK and that will fuse the plastic together. If you cant get that, superglue is your only option and as Mags said, anything you use is going to create a frosting effect anywhere you put it and the end result will be VERY ordinary, but there is light at the end of the tunnel. As you have S1 lights, that's all red, maybe you could consider colour coding the outer red zone and then nobody would be any the wiser and the light area would only be the visible red. Just a thought that might get your problem solved. Cheers, D

Says the man that just HAD to HAVE them on his own car???????

Those grey door trims look pretty good. You musta sweet talked someone to get them in that condition. D

Well this goose definitely isn't me Cam and the mods can check anything they like re my IP, but I bet it's the previous owner (Bill Walsh) of this car or his son. Stupid thing is, I reckon I'm the only person in Ozland with the parts to make this car a showroom condition concourse car and without them it's always going to be a bitser. D

And I have had 4 VG30 turbo's here, 3 with diferent casting numbers on the compressor housing, but all with identical exhaust outlet flange pattern. I had one Hi Flowed which I still have and never used and gave the others away or swapped them for bits I could use later on. I also have an R34 NEO turbo and that has the same flange pattern as the VG30. D

I might be wrong, but I have been led to believe that Gibson Motorsport were the builders of both the R31 GTS vehicles that carried SVD decals. If this is correct your being pedantic, splitting hairs so to speak. D

SVD, not gibson mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I wonder who SVD was???????

I bought a near new one off Yahoo Japan a couple of months ago and your not getting that. And the prick you bought it off refused to sell it to me because he got the impression I was going to part it out. D

Funny thing is the importers say the rear flange is the same

Just a bit of information to add to this; The government of the day (Bob Hawke) had no choice but to continue with the orders made by the Fraser government 1975~83 that any locally made & sold cars had to have a minimum local content so that they could get the imported parts & cars into Australia with tariff protection (Customs by-laws) and the chosen local diff supplier was Borg Warner and they didn't produce an IRS style diff & LSD's were something of expensive options. Hence the Aussie R31 had a live BW rear axle, same as Ford & Holden of same era. Mind you, there is only one Aussie Skyline, it's a bit of a pig except for the Gibson cars S1 & S2 GTS's compared to previous and later models. Stick with an R30 & you can boast you own the original R34. Cheers, D

How so this make any diference to the exhaust rear housing that concerns the dump or downpipe??? It would be a real shame if we stuck to subject huh!

Scott, I can get you a VT Commodore front set up for a few hundred dollars that fits the MR struts. EFI not carbies is the only way to go these days, Webbers & Dellorto's do not pass current emissions laws. MAG86 has lots of ideas, but his technical knowledge base on L series is limited. Suspension can be sourced here in 99% of cases. Talk to me via PM for further information. Cheers, D

When I went down this path a couple of years ago, I found them for sale in NZ for as little as AU$120.00, but by the time it got to Australia it was over AU$1000.00 because it's heavier than 20kg and therefore NO post shop in NZ will accept it, no matter what the NZ Post web site says, the shops/outlets WILL NOT ACCEPT IT. So! you have an alternative, ship it by AIR or SEA? Air, it's got customs duty, insurance, minimum weight, terminal charges etc etc etc and as I said it's over AU$1000.00 by the time it gets here. Sea, same sort of deal because you get charged a minimum of 1cu mtr in the container. Scott, there are much easier ways of getting the torque & power this L31 can produce. For starters, if your going to turbo it, you need an N42 block, not F54 as is perceived. You have to take this block 3.0mm o/size to 89mm and the F54 bores become far to thin and become porous, allowing coolant and oil to seep through the bore walls when boosted with as little as the factory 8psi. I recon I'm going to get 500~600Nm torque from my 2818 motor (plus 1.0mm o/size to 87mm) and 200+ Killer Wasps at the wheels on less than 10psi. Why would you want more than this? Make it handle and stop and you have a potential GTR killer in a classic R30. In my opinion, the dollars are better spent on handling options, brakes & tyres to get it to the ground. Cheers, D

Hi All, Am in need of a stock Australian delivered MR30 Ti Radio unit, in as good condition as is possible and the cassette unit if possible. Please get in touch if you can help. Cheers, D

Scott, You PM'd me on this subject and as yet dont have the time to answer you. If your not in a busting rush to do this, let me get back from Canberra in a week and I'll discuss it detail. Bottom line is "IT ISN'T GOING TO BE CHEAP" and there is far better ways of going about it than building an L31. For starters, the LD28 crank is going to set you back a grand, plus machining. Forget about turbo unless your mad keen on splitting the block. Cheers, D

PM Sent

Sounds ok to me! Call me

Rear housing flange is same as RB25

Why?

manuals have 5 lol