Ghostrider

Have you got any play in your steering linkages that might be causing the problem? Also, the problem might be emphasized with the movement of the steering box because you're trying to mix 2 systems that were never designed to be that way. I haven't entertained the possibility, other than look into a 280ZX set up, but my thoughts go to the movement the steering box system tolerates. The R n P system has virtually zero play as the rack is firmly mounted to the crossmember or firewall, where as the steering box system has some tolerated play from the flexing steering box to the linkages to the strut. Ozdat do a steering box brace for Datto 1600, but don't do anything for the D/H/MR30. It's something I have been working on for a few months now, but as yet haven't produced a prototype for testing, as the Skynats have taken preferrence over everything else. A brace of this nature would go a long way to eliminating the movement issue. Cheers, D

The only super fuel, mass produced in my day that was 100+ RON octane was Fleetwing 100. It was produced by the Boral Refinery at Kurnell and took the NSW performance car industry by storm and was soon bought out by Caltex and shut down. If you do your research & not have a shot in the dark, I think you will find about 97 RON octane was the standard off the shelf Super grade leaded petrol produced until it's demise. D

Victoria is a bit far for me for now. You want to take one or both off and I'll pay you for them? D

Thanks, I'll pay what ever it takes. I have found a wrecker on the south coast that has a few R30's, but it's pouring rain up here in Sydney at present and there paddock is a bog, so I'm not real keen on donning the snorkel & goggles to get one until it at least has a few days to dry out a bit. Cheers, D

What are your plans for this head?? You doing a turbo conversion or normally aspirated (carby) engine??? If your going with your stock OEM carby set up, you might want to look at multiple carbs (twins off 260Z) or maybe a Webber for better response and a better cam, but for the most part it is interchangeable and your head guy has his head up his proverbial ass. You might get a slight increase in compression with the E88, but that, I think is a good thing, as most of the 240K's were a little lacking in the compression dept and your not going to see any pinking until you're approaching the 10+:1 mark and or trying to use standard ULP fuel. Remember your 240K was about when super grade fuel was about 95+ RON octane and it had lead in it to boot. Cheers, D

Hi Guys, I'm in need of another fuel rail. A mate got aggressive with mine trying to get the rubber fuel line off and snapped it at the bracket support. Does anyone have one on a wreck, but it has to be complete and not twisted, bent or otherwise. Let me know if you can assist. D

I don't think 15" wheels will clear the calipers on 296mm rotors. 274mm stock DR rotors see out the 15" wheels as far as I know. There is another issue with fitting the 4 spot calipers to any car and that's a special wheel shape in the back, or use a 20 or 25mm spacer to clear the caliper and if your forced to get it engineered for registration, any spacer is illegal and an instant defect, if found. I chose to go with the BNR32 rotors on the track DR as CAMS allow the spacer and it's an extra 2mm thicker than the R33 non turbo GT rotor. D

Just before somebody needs to ask, these injectors are: 1986/87 Series 4/5 Low Impedence 550cc Tan Top Denso P/N 195500-1370 Paid over $200.00 for 4 ex NZ and there is now 7 in the set. D

Guess they might be heading for that deep, never to see for a long time storage facility.

If you research this exact subject or maybe rack n pinion conversion in R30, I think you will find any number of threads. It is my understanding, the geometry of the front end, ends up so out of whack it aint funny and trying to fix it right is expensive and a long term trial & error sequence of events. I have spoken to both the people I mentioned, over many hours and they don't bother, as they believe there is an easier and more practical solution. I really don't understand the big issue of having to have coil overs in a road car. It can't be as simple as the 4" brake caliper mount used in S13 towers, because VT Commodore use the 3.5" mount and that conversion is cheap as chips. The variable ride hieght availability in a road car is vastly over rated, so I would think, playing with spring hieghts would be simpler and probably cheaper. I had a set of JIC's in my PNV, but they are now in the DR track car and standard struts, King Springs & Koni Sport inserts are back in the front, with a 23mm R31 Pintara front sway bar. From what I'm told, there is more to it than what it looks like on the surface and it's those variables that make it an enormous challenge. And today, if it's planned to be at any time registered, the engineers have to pass the modification.

Here we go again! This topic has been done to death. Don't read forums, go talk to engineers and they will tell you the pros & cons of rack n pinion vs the stock steering box and I can tell you this, the answers your going to get aren't what you want to hear. If your going to the drags, running in a straight line all or most of the time, do the rack n pinion conversion, but if you plan to go around corners, the geometry is going to be all wrong and your going to be chasing your tail getting it right till the sun don't shine no more. Your playing with a short fused stick of jelly imho and with others that have researched it for longer than most of you have been alive. Have a talk to the likes of Arthur Jackson & Stewart Wilkins and others like them and they will all tell you your going to get burnt. If it was so easy, they would be doing it everyday, but they aren't. D

Can anyone on here use these injectors? I have 7off, 4 off cleaned & flowed. I don't have any use for them as they don't fit into my current plans. If anyone can use them, give me a call. D

Sorry for double up, should have been this.

And I'm not opposed to new parts. It's a bit off topic, but thanks to D-Limo I just received from Japan from KRS these little trinkets. And in the past have bought new gear lever boots & centre console lids.

Yep! Your probably all correct in one way or another. Funny thing though, when I was quiet a while back, this classic section of SAU was all but dead and my email tray was filling constantly with questions for info on the R30 model and wanting to know when I would return. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm I guess I really know SFA, so I'll just go quietly and let everyone do their thing. Cheers

You think this is SPAMMING? Maybe you should get a life, or better still, take a long walk off a very short pier. At $270 each, I was merely pointing out, that I thought they are a tad expensive and what was available o/seas. I have 2nd hand, about 3 sets, bought locally, from an importer that I could touch & feel before I paid for them and they cost me less that $200 per set, but many years ago and they look every bit as good as new.

Cazz, I know new looks, as you put it veryyyyyy noice tho, as I can testify to the new dash bits I just got from KRS, but soon as you wash them, they gunna be 2nd hand. Wait n you will see on my PNV at Glenelg, they look almost as good as yours. Ask Mag86 about the set/pair he just got and they cost me AU$250.00 landed. Cheers, D PS...... Just sent you a PM

Warranty????????? How you going to need this on plastic items you have in your hand? Only thing to fail is globes & or wiring. D

http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...e=050805%204334 http://www.importmonster.com.au/view?url=h...e=050805%204334 AU$25.00 each plus all the charges etc makes these about AU$180.00 each landed at your door if your interested, but only 22 hours to go on both and from same seller so probably less than AU$360.00 all up. D

Fffff....fffffffffff........ffffffffffffffff.............. ark! $270 each and they look just like mine I got 2nd hand for less than that per pair. Ex Japan!

All my parts have arrived, all new and sparkly sorta and are all genuine Nissan parts. Come in the boxes from Nissan, so if you want the genuine article and can afford to import them from Japan, this would be an excellent site to keep track of. I have a few other things to order, but will just have to wait till I have the car back on the road. Cheers to all & thanks for finding this place. D

Just got the word from Import Monster. All the parts I ordered from www.r30.jp have been shipped by EMS and I should have them by end of next week. Thanks for the tip Jarryd. Cheers, D

Dare I say, BUICK??????? The V6 Commodore hasn't been a buick since it's inception in a VN. The VP and everything since is an Aussie block. When it comes to V8's the 1UZFE has a better torque curve right throughout the range compared to the dunnydore motor. If I had the time all over again, I would be building an C210 with a VH45 or VH41, but the blocks are same size, so VH45 would be the go and they are relatively cheap and sound awwwwwwweesommme D

Looks very neat Ricky, but I'm a bit bemused as to why you chose a Holden 308 as opposed to a VH45. Had to be a cost thing eh? D

Mags, your heater core problem is more likely the cockheads that had them before you didn't use coolant in the radiator, because the white powder you speak of is corrosion of the brass piping. My PNV has none of your heater core problems and it's about same age as yours and I have spare cores that don't show any of the symptoms your suggesting. Maybe you should try taking the core, or a core to a radiator specialist before you seek a new genuine unit. D